Power Steering gone again

I had this issue when the alternator had low output and the battery was on the way out.


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So new battery, test the alternator and see what happens next. Is it straight forwards to drain and replace the PAS fluid?
 
Quick check on alternator:
Use a multimeter to measure battery volts, ignition off, should be 13.5v. Record it.
Start engine, battery volts should be >14.5v, engine running. Record it.
Switch dipped headlights on, battery volts should still be >14.5v. Record it.
If battery volts is >14.5v under load (lights), alternator is probably OK.
If battery volts, ignition off, is < 12v, then battery is very suspect.
This is a basic check only, but will avoid buying an alternator, only to find it's the battery, or vice versa.
Mac.
 
After a couple of days of no use your battery should still be 12.7V and shouldn’t sag below around 10v during starting.

I have had batteries that seemed fine by this measure but would only take a surface charge and it wreaked HAVOK with electrical systems. Limp mode. ECS. no gear change (auto). Loss of power. All lights on the dash flickering.

Any garage or Kwik fit or Halfords kind of place should be able to do a load test where they attach a large drain on the battery and alternator and see what it does. A poor battery will sag. In the example above - it dropped to 9v when I applied a load.


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For steering fluid you need to remove the passenger side headlight and then you have access to the reservoir which is below and behind this to top up with the appropriate fluid. Unless the steering fluid is not green and obviously low, top it up and leave it rather than draining for now. The symptoms you've described are classic for low voltage (ie, battery on its way out - if it is a VARTA with an 8z0 code on top this is quite normal for an original 16 year old+ battery, all three A2s I have needed a new battery and I know a lot of other people here have been in the same boat). The steering pump is powered by electricity - and is so potent that you can see it actively dimming the headlights just after starting when it is dark even if the battery / alternator are in full health) - so if your battery is less than perfect - or needs a charge - the car will actively dispense with major battery drains to keep running. Eurocarparts do 50% battery reductions at this time of year, and Tayat on Ebay also have good prices for Bosch and similar batteries, so this is almost a service part when you pick up a new (to you) A2 second-hand. I've done this with all of mine and it was both necessary and worth it (even with one purchased 'in full health' from a proper dealer).
 
Hello guys, i have a a2 with no working steering.I check with vcds an I have the following fault ----- 00817 - steering assist temperatur. In order to repair the car I change the pump with another used and I have the same error. The car was involved in a small crash in the left wheel and I supose that in the steering rack is somthing moved/blocked and the pump overheat because of that. Any sugestions ?
 
Valentin said:
Hello guys, i have a a2 with no working steering.I check with vcds an I have the following fault ----- 00817 - steering assist temperatur. In order to repair the car I change the pump with another used and I have the same error. The car was involved in a small crash in the left wheel and I supose that in the steering rack is somthing moved/blocked and the pump overheat because of that. Any sugestions ?
Click to expand...

When the pump is completely cold and the error is cleared, are you able to get steering at all before the error arises, or is this permanent when the system is powered up?
 
The steering is not working at all ,even if the pump is cold there is no servo assist.After 2 mintes i receiv thi error and the yellow wheel on the display.
 
Today I mount the pump and receive the error even if i not start the car,i let the car with 1 ignition ON only to make a autoscan and the error pop up.
 
Have you checked both fuses (38 and the huge one in the ECU compartment under the floor)? Obviously it is more likely to be something less simple than this, but worth asking the question.
 
Problem solved ! The problem was a stuck conection valve that connect the steering hose to the steering rack.
 

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The part is used in all VAG cars, i change it with one from a Passat b5.5 steering rack.

Inside the conection is a valve with a spring and if you can not push it with a screwdriver the valve is stuck and the hydraulic oil can not pass.
 
I had a replacement rack installed just over a year ago and more recently have been suffering from:
1) No power steering
2) A 'mooing' from the front nearside with intermittent power steering failure and the warning beeper going crazy

Previously an issue with the power steering was it failing only when the car was parked with the nose pointing down a hill (yes, really) which was fixed by a connector being opened up and dried and packed with some sort of waterproofing (and not conducting) grease as water had got into it which caused a short circuit when the front of the car was pointing downhill. Apparently this is VW thinking that the wheel arch is a good place for electrics to live 🤦🏻

Now it seems to fail when things are 'moist' and/ or the car has been parked unused for a few days.

Is there a common location where the power steering connectors fail because of moisture problems?
 
The male side of connectors are fitted vertically so water should not get in to the live parts at all unless the connector is cracked or broken to allow moisture ingress, you could remove both connectors dry them & put and smear a coating of a glue etc on the surface insuring the locking point does not get any glue, let them dry & plug them back in.
Also its possible the electrical circuit within the pump has water damage in which case needs replacing.
 
Ami said:
The male side of connectors are fitted vertically so water should not get in to the live parts at all unless the connector is cracked or broken to allow moisture ingress, you could remove both connectors dry them & put and smear a coating of a glue etc on the surface insuring the locking point does not get any glue, let them dry & plug them back in.
Also its possible the electrical circuit within the pump has water damage in which case needs replacing.
Click to expand...
I'll have the garage take a look at it in more detail.
Aside from three very minor advisories the A2 had a completely clean bill of health at its MoT and passed first time, so bearing in mind it started as a £475 car a year ago, I'm happy to keep its running restoration/ upgrading going. So far it's the only car I've owned (aside from my leased EV from 2018- 2021) which has cost as little as it has to keep running.
 
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Bargain, Days of buying an A2 with MOT & Running condition at £475 are now long gone. ;)
 
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