Pro Boost FSI remap

If you install the Pro Boost map there is no need to replace the actuator, in fact as it is not used I think it can be removed, but no point making needless work.

What Steve said in his reply to you about the flaps is correct. If your flaps are in the rest position then there is no need to do any manifold work and the Pro boost map will work as intended. The awkward question is did the actuator break because the flaps seized in an intermediate or closed position. If the Pro Boost map is implemented in such a scenario then the air intake profile will be wrong for the new map and how this will effect performance I think is unkown at this early stage of map release. {Hi Steve (@A2Steve), sorry for butting in and have no wish to discourage take up of the new map, but this would be a good question for Arian at Pro Boost.} It seems to me the sensible course of action is to try and establish the current position of the flaps. This should be possible with VCDS - have at look at my post over in the P1031 thread, but it this does assume the flap potentiometer is working correctly. The other course of action is to strip down inspect and clean to de-seize but with labour costs, before the new map.

Andy

It's a good point.

Surely someone with a known working flap system could just measure / photograph / reference the normal rest position at the actuator (which I think is easy to see / access)? If the arm isn't flapping about and is attached at both ends then there must be a way of quickly establishing flap position. This could become part of the Pro-Boost installation guide perhaps.

Using VCDS as a reference assumes three things: 1) the user has access to VCDs, 2) the potentiometer is working and 3) nothing's broken. The above quick ref wouldn't need any system and doesn't rely on the potentiometer. You can manually check the arm isn't flapping around, but I would concede you'd be making an assumption that the cross-shaft and flaps are O.K., but you could argue that with the VCDS method as well.

No doubt I'll be fiddling with at least one FSi at some point this weekend: will have a look and try get to get some pics.
 
It's a good point.

Surely someone with a known working flap system could just measure / photograph / reference the normal rest position at the actuator (which I think is easy to see / access)? If the arm isn't flapping about and is attached at both ends then there must be a way of quickly establishing flap position. This could become part of the Pro-Boost installation guide perhaps.

Using VCDS as a reference assumes three things: 1) the user has access to VCDs, 2) the potentiometer is working and 3) nothing's broken. The above quick ref wouldn't need any system and doesn't rely on the potentiometer. You can manually check the arm isn't flapping around, but I would concede you'd be making an assumption that the cross-shaft and flaps are O.K., but you could argue that with the VCDS method as well.

No doubt I'll be fiddling with at least one FSi at some point this weekend: will have a look and try get to get some pics.
Hi Rusty,

Please note I have just now rewritten the first paragraph of the post to which you replied but this does not effect the thrust of your reply.

I do not wish to divert Steve's thread into a discussion about assessing flap position, beyond I stand by my revised post and will reply by PM tomorrow.

Andy
 
Was a bit nervous but my ProBoost equipped FSi passed its MOT! A few issues to resolve with discs and handbrake, but otherwise all good. Not sure if I’m the first to report a MOT success for ProBoost...thanks to A2Steve ?
 
Was a bit nervous but my ProBoost equipped FSi passed its MOT! A few issues to resolve with discs and handbrake, but otherwise all good. Not sure if I’m the first to report a MOT success for ProBoost...thanks to A2Steve ?

Adrian has every confidence having had Pro Boosted FSI’s pass the German TUV test but it’s good to know. Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: kel
Was a bit nervous but my ProBoost equipped FSi passed its MOT! A few issues to resolve with discs and handbrake, but otherwise all good. Not sure if I’m the first to report a MOT success for ProBoost...thanks to A2Steve
Spud flew through his MOT. All emissions ideal at mid tolerance. Now done 3k with ProBoost ECU. Not missed a beat.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
My recommendation to 1.6 FSI owners - replace the old injectors! That will solve the misfirings and other related issues.
 
I've recently replaced the coil pack

Can you explain what it is and how it's done? Also, how many hours Labour. Thanks.
I recently added a thread Carbon cleaning 1.6fsi. Carbon Clean in its simplest form is where the carbon build up is cleaned without removing the engine cylinder head etc. 1hrs work . can provide more detail if it helps. FSI,TFSI Audi suffer from carbon build up
Cost various according to where you live and who does it . Hope my post makes sense
 
If the actuator or arm is broken to an extent it does not force the flaps open then either replace actuator (assuming the flaps are not seized - see later) or strip down and pin the flaps open or remove them. Sorry not a simple answer

It seems to me the sensible course of action is to try and establish the current position of the flaps. This should be possible with VCDS - have at look at my post over in the P1031 thread, but it this does assume the flap potentiometer is working correctly. The other course of action is to strip down inspect and clean to de-seize but with labour costs, before the new map.

Andy

In my situation the actuator rod was broken, but the flaps were loose. They did rattle at low revs.
You coul check this by moving the lever, but it's very difficult to get to, and you would not be able to tell if they were fully open IMO. The VCDS might tell you what position they're in.
But relying on a load of carbon deposit to keep them open might not be the best engineering practise and the manifold should be cleaned for best running if it's got to that level of carbon deposit. A carbon clean won't clean them as they're before the injectors. A flawed design, the carbon in egr can't be cleaned by the fuel. .

The flaps can't be removed without drilling out 8 blanking plates and fabricating replacements, which would be near impossible to fit, so we bolted the lever fully open. Can't be any worse than the actuator rod which is a shockingly cheap looking and weak piece of plastic.
So I hope that the re-map ignores the sawirl flaps entirely. And the EGR for that matter.
 
........
The flaps can't be removed without drilling out 8 blanking plates and fabricating replacements, which would be near impossible to fit, so we bolted the lever fully open. Can't be any worse than the actuator rod which is a shockingly cheap looking and weak piece of plastic.
So I hope that the re-map ignores the sawirl flaps entirely. And the EGR for that matter.
Pleased to see you have made progress with the flaps ready for the remap.

I think you did the right thing in bolting the flaps open if it works. I know how I would tackle this but it would be helpful to others if you could detail how you achieved this but too late for a picture I assume.

Not sure about your comment on removing flaps. I think I see your point but I anticipated removing the two tiny bolts that hold each flap to the central rod and lifting them out, after all that is how Audi clearly fixed them in. The tiny bolts appear to have hex heads but if Audi used permanent thread lock .......and really need specialist micro rachet and quality micro hex bit! - much simpler to do what you did.

Flaps and EGR are ignored by Pro Boost remap, that is two of its two big positives but Steve can confirm.

Andy
 
Flaps and EGR are ignored by Pro Boost remap, that is two of its two big positives but Steve can confirm.

Andy[/QUOTE]

Thats correct.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
In my situation the actuator rod was broken, but the flaps were loose. They did rattle at low revs.
You coul check this by moving the lever, but it's very difficult to get to, and you would not be able to tell if they were fully open IMO. The VCDS might tell you what position they're in.
But relying on a load of carbon deposit to keep them open might not be the best engineering practise and the manifold should be cleaned for best running if it's got to that level of carbon deposit. A carbon clean won't clean them as they're before the injectors. A flawed design, the carbon in egr can't be cleaned by the fuel. .

The flaps can't be removed without drilling out 8 blanking plates and fabricating replacements, which would be near impossible to fit, so we bolted the lever fully open. Can't be any worse than the actuator rod which is a shockingly cheap looking and weak piece of plastic.
So I hope that the re-map ignores the sawirl flaps entirely. And the EGR for that matter.
@Scumfrog
Have you fitted the ProBoost now?
Mac.
 
Simple fix, by drilling and tapping through the plastic lever, into the manifold.

I'm not saying this is the best way, but removing the flaps would have been too difficult or at least time consuming.ing and I wanted the car on the road. I think it would be a good idea to get a scrap manifold to experiment with, but you'd probably end up grinding the heads off the tiny flap bolts to remove them. The problem with that is that it will probably leave an irregular manifold shape and might adversely affect the air flow.

Anyway, the car seems to run perfect, but the eml is still on.

I haven't received a proboost yet.

Sent from my SM-A105FN using Tapatalk
 
The next batch of ECU’s should be with me tomorrow, 2 of the 6 have been reserved, so if you want one without delay on delivery then please get in touch.
 
Yesterday I fitted a Pro-Boost ECU to my FSI. The EML, which had previously shown P1031 immediately went out, but I have two more error codes.
Does anyone know anything about P0108 - Manifold absolute pressure, and P0340 - Camshaft position sensor?
So, I have still got an EML showing. In addition, it has disabled my "Timmus" cruise control.

Dick Arthurs
 
Enter the error codes into Google, followed by "ross tech wiki"
This will give you a clue.
ProBoost will not "fix" these errors.
Mac.
 
Yesterday I fitted a Pro-Boost ECU to my FSI. The EML, which had previously shown P1031 immediately went out, but I have two more error codes.
Does anyone know anything about P0108 - Manifold absolute pressure, and P0340 - Camshaft position sensor?
So, I have still got an EML showing. In addition, it has disabled my "Timmus" cruise control.

Dick Arthurs

Hi Dick

If you read through the thread you will see that these are historic codes stored in the ecu from bench testing.

They need to be cleared with a code reader and they will not come back.
 
Back
Top