Project Cone

mrbroons

mrbroons

Well-Known Member
Hope you are all well friends.

So we now have the car and I’ll be getting together a list of “things” required to get it ready for life with me.

Here is a quick photo teaser.

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To my dear friends on the forum who always come through with parts for my cars and in the immortal words of the Snowman “hold on to your A$%”

So far:

Rear parcel shelf
Pine green drivers mirror housing
Mirror glass (heated)
Hard touch everything
Beige leather seats ideally heated lumbar but what do you have.
There will no doubt be a lot more
[mention]timmus [/mention] cruise, Komfort and dis are needed but appreciate you may not be back my way for a while.

Will update spec and more things needed later on.

MrB


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So with another quick inspection it looks like I’ll need the following (although some of these things I may have so will post a wanted advert for what I actually need)

4 door cards to match the beige leather
Drivers side fog lamp
Climate panel in good nick
Traction control plastic covers
Rear parcel shelf
Aero wiper
New windscreen
Seal the headlights - misting
Some boot springs - [mention]ICowie [/mention] ?
Drivers sun visor
Drivers side air vent
Cup holders
Passenger front window regulator.
N75 hoses

Looks like a basic SE with factory towbar. Will upload the spec once I’ve done some research.


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Thanks to some very kind replacement parts we now have a rear parcel shelf and hard touch climate panel.

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Got the usual limp mode issue. Have replaced the N75 with a new unit from Darkside and whilst better it is still dropping into limp mode.

I’ll get a fresh VCDS scan this weekend and will post the results but assuming given the age and mileage it may be porous hoses is there a kit I can buy to replace them all e.g. Samco or instead speak nicely to [mention]CreweAudi [/mention]

MrB
 
Also got zero A/C, fuses all ok but believe we are losing gas as has zero in it. Before a refill is it worth trying any of the snake oil treatments from Halfords to address leaks or just go straight to compressor, hoses and rad?

Cheers

MrB


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mrbroons said:
Also got zero A/C, fuses all ok but believe we are losing gas as has zero in it. Before a refill is it worth trying any of the snake oil treatments from Halfords to address leaks or just go straight to compressor, hoses and rad?

Cheers

MrB


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Click to expand...
Best to get it leak tested first as you may be replacing parts unnecessarily. That climate panel was pretty dire wasn't it.
 
I would take the bumper off and have a real good look at the condenser rad and fittings, check the corners of the rad for dark oil areas. Or maybe try UV light as previous owner may have had lumious dye in the gas so it will have left a traace for the leak. Failign this I would get a mobile expert in to pressure test it, wont cost much. If it hold pressure youre onto a winner, if it doesnt then just bite bullet and replace the condenser the dryer anyway fix the leak and away it should go. I changed everything bar the pipes on mine for £350 including labour to pressure test and regas with fresh pag oil. Taking wheel arch liner off the near side helps with getting the dryer off, but you know this having done a chassis leg on imola :cool:
 
CrispyEdd said:
I would take the bumper off and have a real good look at the condenser rad and fittings, check the corners of the rad for dark oil areas. Or maybe try UV light as previous owner may have had lumious dye in the gas so it will have left a traace for the leak. Failign this I would get a mobile expert in to pressure test it, wont cost much. If it hold pressure youre onto a winner, if it doesnt then just bite bullet and replace the condenser the dryer anyway fix the leak and away it should go. I changed everything bar the pipes on mine for £350 including labour to pressure test and regas with fresh pag oil. Taking wheel arch liner off the near side helps with getting the dryer off, but you know this having done a chassis leg on imola :cool:
Click to expand...
Spot on, I'll see if I can get some dye in there and go from there.
 
Got some interesting errors coming from the N75 (which I have replaced already with a new Pierburg unit)

17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1549 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Ground
19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)
P3105 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
17849 - EGR Valve (N18)
P1441 - 35-00 - Open Circuit or Short to Ground
17964 - Charge Pressure Control
P1556 - 35-10 - Negative Deviation - Intermittent

Any thoughts on next steps? Check battery voltage?
 
Another question for the experts. Do the older gen 1 A2s not have one touch open on the passenger windows? I have this on my later A2 on all 4 windows but only on the drivers on the Gen 1?


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mrbroons said:
Another question for the experts. Do the older gen 1 A2s not have one touch open on the passenger windows? I have this on my later A2 on all 4 windows but only on the drivers on the Gen 1?


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Not sure what you mean "older" but my 2001 A2 has got one-touch on all 4 windows.
 
As John has said sounds like the one touch has been cleared ( battery disconnected or low? ). You only need to make sure the windows are up then using the switches on the drivers door and the ignition on hold each button UP for 2 seconds ( or hear a click ) and release now repeat for all the other windows again only using the switches on the drivers door. Once done hold down the unlock button on your remotes and the windows will lower, hold the lock button and the windows will raise. This will not happen if one touch is not working.
 
Try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes then try to reset the windows, including the date / time and probably the remote.

More likely either the passenger window switch in the drivers door is faulty or the door control module in the drivers door either has a loose plug or has gone faulty.
 
Quick update...

So within a few hours the car seems to lose sync with the remote and this needs to be re-established. Also I now have one touch down on the drivers and passenger window but only one touch up on the drivers side? Presuming the CCCU is the culprit but looking for second opinions. I recall a CCCU fix service but cannot remember who did this, was it Tom?

Regards,

MrB
 
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