Project Green A2

Jack Rayner

Member
Hi all,

I thought I would start a thread to document the process of (hopefully) putting my £300 A2 back on the road. :)

As a bit of background, I found myself wanting to try a new hobby and something that's not sitting in front of a computer as I do enough of that as part of my job. I've always been interested in cars but I chose the route of PCPing a new-ish car pretty early on so I've never really had the need to fix something. My only real experience with car repairs has been doing basic service items and cleaning the sunroof drains on my old MK4 Golf.

I'm definitely a fan of VAG products so when looking for something to learn on, it had to be something cheap, unique and from the group. I think the A2 fits into all those categories quite nicely.

So, the A2...

It's a 2 owner car (before me) with ~94k miles on it. It's not been used much in the past year and a half, covering just 400 miles since its last service at the end of 2018. It came with 2 keys, a stamped service booklet, no receipts (although I've been told some may be posted to me) and a whole bunch of issues!

So far the issues I've found are:

  • Fuel filler release & alarm switches broken
  • Drivers air vent broken
  • Fuse box cover broken
  • Dash panel under steering wheel broken
  • Passenger cup holder broken
  • CCCU (?) issues (I have the "Q" unit :( )
  • Second key remote doesn't want to sync (probably CCCU related)
  • No MOT
  • Anti-roll bar link bushes worn (failure listed on MOT)
  • Offside inner driveshaft boot split (failure listed on MOT)
  • Both number plate lights are cracked and have stripped/broken screws
  • Number plates delaminating
  • 4x heavily trashed alloys
  • General tatty body work
  • Large scrape on driver's-side rear wheel arch
  • Passenger-side rear seat latch sticks/gets jammed
  • No locking wheel bolt key
  • Toolkit pieces missing (including tyre goop)
  • Emissions issue (failure listed on MOT)
  • "Mayo" on the oil filler cap (coolant looks OK so I think this is likely from lack of use 🤞)
  • Broken dipstick
  • Missing water collection bucket thing
  • Knackered air intake pre-heat hose (the one from the exhaust manifold to the air box(?))
  • Brakes all-round are in quite rusty, not sure how much they will recover after a drive
I think the specification is as follows:

  • SE trim
  • Soul black trim with black cloth
  • Chorus 2
  • Mini/half DIS
  • 1.4 16v AUA
  • Front electric windows only
  • 2 rear seats
  • Island Green paint
  • Climate control
Collection day:

20200509_171508.jpg 20200509_171512.jpg 20200509_173617.jpg

After getting it home, I was looking through the toolkit when pulling the battery off and noticed that I'd obviously imagined seeing the locking wheel bolt key! I counted 21 splines on my bolt and ordered a key from eBay.
20200509_205223.jpg

Next I re-checked the oil. I remembered that when I viewed the car, it felt a bit stiff trying to get the dipstick back in and it looked like it had kinked in places. Sure enough...
20200510_154946.jpg 20200510_163354.jpg 20200510_155404.jpg
Fortunately, it wasn't snapped like that until I applied some additional force, but this was maybe ~5 insertions away from happening on its own. Do I get bonus points for having an 8Z0 115 611 H dipstick that I can't seem to find any mention of on the internet? :D A replacement 8Z0 115 611 R dipstick has been ordered and I'll check the length when it arrives.

A very sad looking air intake pre-heating (I think that's what this is for?) hose:
20200510_170552.jpg

I believe this pipe is for the activated charcoal filter system, it seems to be flapping about with a rubber piece over the hose. I'm not sure where it's supposed to be clipped to.
20200510_170713.jpg

Oh yes! The car has (probably) the original windscreen, as evidenced by the University of Essex parking permits from 2001.
20200510_171145.jpg

My plan is to see how far I can get with fixing the car, the main priority is getting it MOT ready so that it can be driven on the road and any further mechanical issues can be discovered. After that, I'm not really sure what my future plans are. I might sell it, I might keep it as a runaround and to make sure I don't lose the ability to drive a manual car. ;) This isn't a cost exercise, but I might throw some prices up now and again.
 
Last edited:

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
They are nice little cars to work on. Nothing too complicated and well designed (in the main).

I can help with pretty much every item on your wanted list so send me a pm if you want anything.
 

Jack Rayner

Member
One thing I did notice when inspecting the car was there seemed to be a mild oil leak from somewhere. I could see a bit of residue on the under-tray and there was some on the cam cover.
20200511_191146.jpg

Well, my Euro Car Parts order arrived today containing filters, oil and some new spark plugs!
20200511_124917.jpg

Having had a battle with some work-related problem during the day, I was in the mood for a quick win. I whipped off the bonnet, vacuumed out some pine needles and leaves and then unclipped the HT lead cables from the plastic cover. As soon as I popped off the first lead from the spark plug I heard a lovely "squelch" sound.

20200511_184848.jpg

Disaster, all 4 spark plug holes where practically filled with engine oil. I tried to get as much oil with a syringe and some kitchen roll, but there's still a fair amount in the bottom.

20200511_185541.jpg 20200511_194717.jpg

On closer inspection, it looks like there's also a bit of leak on the exhaust side of the engine around the cam cover too. I guess this means the gasket needs redoing. :(
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
There is no gasket between the head and cam carrier. This is were the oil gets into the plug hole
You clean both surfaces and then apply some sealer before mating the two parts
To do this you need to remove the cam belts and the cam carrier and this is far from a 5min job
Sorry to be the bearer of not so good news

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Rusty911

A2OC Donor
That's going to make a lovely car! That's going to look fab all done: really excellent.

The 1.4i Petrols are an absolute hoot to drive. They are so light compared to most other cars (three or four rugby players lighter than your MK4 Golf), that little 1.4 feels much bigger once you get it singing. They also have a particularly nice gearchange as well. I very much regret selling mine and will probably head back into another petrol at some point.

As has been said, they are really nice cars to work on as very cleverly thought out and real money-no-object engineering. They are a delight.
 
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Jack Rayner

Member
There is no gasket between the head and cam carrier. This is were the oil gets into the plug hole
You clean both surfaces and then apply some sealer before mating the two parts
To do this you need to remove the cam belts and the cam carrier and this is far from a 5min job
Sorry to be the bearer of not so good news

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah yes, I meant sealer! I'd just been reading a thread on here about it and the dangers of getting sealant in the oil galleries :(

As I have no paperwork with the car, all I have is the seller's word that they think the timing belt and water pump was renewed in the tail end of 2016, this might be a job I leave until last and get a local independent VAG garage to do the pump, belt and sealant all at once.
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
Ah yes, I meant sealer! I'd just been reading a thread on here about it and the dangers of getting sealant in the oil galleries :(

As I have no paperwork with the car, all I have is the seller's word that they think the timing belt and water pump was renewed in the tail end of 2016, this might be a job I leave until last and get a local independent VAG garage to do the pump, belt and sealant all at once.
Yes makes total sense to do the belts water pump tensioners and sealant all at the same time

Watch out for mid fires caused by the oil shorting the spark out if there is a lot in the plug holes

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jack Rayner

Member
That's going to make a lovely car!

The 1.4i Petrols are an absolute hoot to drive. They are so light compared to most other cars (three or four rugby players lighter than your MK4 Golf), that little 1.4 feels much bigger once you get it singing. They also have a particularly nice gearchange as well. I very much regret selling mine and will probably head back into another petrol at some point.

As has been said, they are really nice cars to work on as very cleverly thought out and real money-no-object engineering. They are a delight.
I hope it will be! I did a lot of lurking on the forum before joining, reading all about the design etc. but it's a bit different actually sitting in it - in a good way!

I'll hopefully be able to experience it on the road soon. It's a mixture of dread and excitement at the moment. On the one hand it's probably going to fun to drive something so light, but on the other hand it will probably be when I discover that the remaining parts I haven't replaced need replacing! 😁
 

Jack Rayner

Member
Yes makes total sense to do the belts water pump tensioners and sealant all at the same time

Watch out for mid fires caused by the oil shorting the spark out if there is a lot in the plug holes

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No mis firing yet, but the idle seems a bit lumpy and it smells a bit rich. I haven't had it running for more than 10 minutes though.

I guess I could try to get a can of compressed air and blow the remaining oil out into a rag and then monitor it to see how much comes back. The car was sitting for pretty much a whole year so I guess I won't know the extent of the leak until I clean up all of the old oil. I'm also keen to see how bad the plugs are, but I didn't want to dump 67 litres of oil into the cylinders to find out :D
 

Rusty911

A2OC Donor
Luckily, nothing seems very expensive. Mechanically they're Polo's / Fabia's etc so the cost of parts is very competitive. Most would probably suggest that you stick to the big OEM brands (Meyle, Lemforder, Febi) and so on.

My advise if you've not done a project like this before and especially if a car's been standing is this: when you first drive it, just take it for a little drive and keep expectations low. The car will be all out of sorts if it's been standing anyway and it needs settling down just as you need settling into it, esp if you're used to new cars. Get it back home, have a check round. Go for a slightly longer drive and so on. It'll throw up jobs after each drive most likely. It's all part of the process.

Frankly, that first drive is often pretty average: it all feels strange, the brakes are noisy, perhaps there's an odd rattle. I've lost count of how many times I've headed up the road in a rescued car after much work and thought 'oh no, this is truly horrible'. With each journey, that feeling changes to more like 'hang on, there might be something here after all.'

Before you know it, it's no longer a project but a fun car in its own right that you'll look forward to using 🙂
 
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Jack Rayner

Member
I'll bear that in mind when I go for the eventual first drive :D

Driving around the car park where I bought it from, the brakes sounded like rocks being dragged gravel, but the clutch was nice, gearbox smooth but not floppy and I'd forgotten how lovely hydraulic power steering feels! :)
 

Jeetesh

Member
I didn’t save the link, it was just something I noticed when browsing. It seems similar as it was a petrol 1.4 in the same colour.
 

Jack Rayner

Member
So yesterday's fun during my lunch break was attempting to remove the plastic portion of the boot lid. Even after reading lots of guides on here about how it was clipped in, it still felt strange having to tug so hard to remove it. :)

Unfortunately, this was necessary due to both of the number plate light holders having rusty, snapped screws stuck in them. EuroCarParts actually stock the VW original part which made life easier.

A nice, pristine boot was revealed... Oh wait no, it was covered in 19 years of filth!
20200512_161054.jpg

Interestingly, rather than the white clips coming out, the whole clip holder came too:
20200512_161128.jpg

Later in the evening I gave the car a quick wash to remove all of the dirt and spiders (sooo many spiders) that it had accumulated over the past year of sitting. I also had to drill out the old number plate bolts as I think these were the original plates, so the plastic bolt heads just crumbled as soon as I tried removing them.

New, working number plate lights:
20200513_185643.jpg
 

Jack Rayner

Member
When browsing eBay the other day for a replacement owner's manual wallet I stumbled across a seller offering:

  • A2 Press pack
  • A2 price list and brochure
  • Audi Driver Nov/Dec 1999 featuring the A2
Now, I'm financially irresponsible at best, so when the order total was only around ~£20 for all of those I couldn't help myself and bought them. ;)

I'll attach some images, I'm sure most people have seen these before, but they seem fascinating to me. :)

20200513_215018.jpg 20200513_215328.jpg 20200513_215409.jpg 20200513_215911.jpg 20200513_220522.jpg
20200513_220639.jpg 20200513_220650.jpg 20200513_220722.jpg 20200513_220753.jpg 20200513_220819.jpg
 

Jack Rayner

Member
As well as the A2 literature, my Gendan KKL cable also arrived. After activating VCDS Lite (20% off this month!) I did a full scan of the car:


Code:
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Wednesday, 13 May 2020, 19:16:00:61636


Chassis Type: 8Z - Audi A2
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,18,37,45,46,56,57,75,76,77
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine       Labels:
   Controller:
   Note: Can't Synch Baud Rate

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes       Labels: None
   Controller: 8Z0 907 379 B
   Component: ESP     20    CAN  V015
   Coding: 10758
   Shop #: WSC 00000
   VCID: 47E128DB76B5
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC       Labels: None
   Controller: 8Z0 820 043 D
   Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUT     枚AUT
   VCID: 3701581B0655
   Note: Excessive Comm Errors

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags       Labels: 8Z0-959-655.LBL
   Controller: 8Z0 959 655 E
   Component: Airbag Front+Seite 5005
   Coding: 00102
   Shop #: WSC 02152
   VCID: 4EEF1DFF99CF
1 Fault Found:
00532 -  Supply Voltage B+
            07-10 -  Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments       Labels: 8Z0-920-xxx-17.LBL
   Controller: 8Z0 920 950 J
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. VDO D05
   Coding: 05442
   Shop #: WSC 00006
   VCID: 45FD22D34CB9

4 Faults Found:
01039 -  Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
            30-10 -  Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01304 -  Radio
            49-00 -  No Communications
01336 -  Data Bus for Comfort System
            80-10 -  Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent
00562 -  Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
            27-10 -  Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor       Labels: 8E0-951-177.LBL
   Controller: 8Z0 951 177
   Component: Innenraumueberw.    D04
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 00000
   VCID: 55DDF293BC19
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.       Labels: None
   Controller: 8Z0 959 433 Q
   Component: Komfortger谩t T1D    0614
   Coding: 06858
   Shop #: WSC 00000
   VCID: 54DB0F97B7E3
1 Fault Found:
01134 -  Alarm Horn (H12)
            49-00 -  No Communications

End   --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some interesting looking ones from the airbag and instrument modules! I put this down to the battery being left to go flat multiple times, sure enough after a clearing the codes and running the car for a bit, they never came back!

Initially, I wasn't able to connect to the engine module, but I later discovered that I needed to set the start baud rate to 9600 in the VCDS options, no faults were stored. :) I've also noticed that I often can't connect to the climate control module, I think this is run off the CCCU so that might be causing the issue?

Even after clearing the codes, the central convenience module kept flagging the alarm horn as having no comms. 15 minutes later and most of the ends of my fingers and pry tools removed:
20200513_185114.jpg

I guess the suspected faulty CCCU was causing the alarm to go off so the previous owner just got the horn removed altogether.
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
As well as the A2 literature, my Gendan KKL cable also arrived. After activating VCDS Lite (20% off this month!) I did a full scan of the car:


Code:
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Wednesday, 13 May 2020, 19:16:00:61636


Chassis Type: 8Z - Audi A2
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,18,37,45,46,56,57,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Controller:
Note: Can't Synch Baud Rate

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 907 379 B
Component: ESP 20 CAN V015
Coding: 10758
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 47E128DB76B5
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 820 043 D
Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUT 枚AUT
VCID: 3701581B0655
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8Z0-959-655.LBL
Controller: 8Z0 959 655 E
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 5005
Coding: 00102
Shop #: WSC 02152
VCID: 4EEF1DFF99CF
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Z0-920-xxx-17.LBL
Controller: 8Z0 920 950 J
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. VDO D05
Coding: 05442
Shop #: WSC 00006
VCID: 45FD22D34CB9

4 Faults Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications
01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System
80-10 - Single-Wire Operation - Intermittent
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 8E0-951-177.LBL
Controller: 8Z0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw. D04
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 55DDF293BC19
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 959 433 Q
Component: Komfortger谩t T1D 0614
Coding: 06858
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 54DB0F97B7E3
1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some interesting looking ones from the airbag and instrument modules! I put this down to the battery being left to go flat multiple times, sure enough after a clearing the codes and running the car for a bit, they never came back!

Initially, I wasn't able to connect to the engine module, but I later discovered that I needed to set the start baud rate to 9600 in the VCDS options, no faults were stored. :) I've also noticed that I often can't connect to the climate control module, I think this is run off the CCCU so that might be causing the issue?

Even after clearing the codes, the central convenience module kept flagging the alarm horn as having no comms. 15 minutes later and most of the ends of my fingers and pry tools removed:
View attachment 64277

I guess the suspected faulty CCCU was causing the alarm to go off so the previous owner just got the horn removed altogether.
Yes you have to set the baud rate to 9600 or even slower to allow comms
My cheap vcds cable is also ultra picky about connecting to the klimatron
This is not an issue for my own A2 as I don’t have climate control
The petrol engine ecu is also far more picky to connect to than the diesel ecu

Your getting there

Cheers. Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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