Project Green A2

When browsing eBay the other day for a replacement owner's manual wallet I stumbled across a seller offering:

  • A2 Press pack
  • A2 price list and brochure
  • Audi Driver Nov/Dec 1999 featuring the A2
Now, I'm financially irresponsible at best, so when the order total was only around ~£20 for all of those I couldn't help myself and bought them. ;)

I'll attach some images, I'm sure most people have seen these before, but they seem fascinating to me. :)

View attachment 64267 View attachment 64268 View attachment 64269 View attachment 64270 View attachment 64271
View attachment 64272 View attachment 64273 View attachment 64274 View attachment 64275 View attachment 64276
Good stuff and cheap for what you got there.
 

Pinkythelabrat

A2OC Donor
Ummm... 20% off you say?

I looked but it was still $99 when I checked. Do you have a special (but shareable) code?

Great work with the car by the way!


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Jack Rayner

Member
Ummm... 20% off you say?

I looked but it was still $99 when I checked. Do you have a special (but shareable) code?

Great work with the car by the way!


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Ooooo errrrmm, it's a very secret code that maybe I shouldn't share... ;) It involved using the dark web, cracked software, torrenting and some bitcoins! </sarcasm>

Actually, it's Ross-Tech's 20th birthday, so any digitally-delivered software has 20% off. The code is "20years" without the quotes. :)

Link: https://forums.ross-tech.com/showth...iversary-Sale!&p=199360&viewfull=1#post199360

Edit: Probably a great time for anyone with a 3 or 10 VIN interface to grab an upgrade to either 10 or unlimited!
 

Jack Rayner

Member
Your getting there


Cheers. Paul
Well, I slowly am. Couple of steps forward, a step or two back. ;)

A couple of days ago I swapped the swampy cabin filter and so today I tackled the air filter:
20200514_172243.jpg

First time using a jack and trolley jack and axle stands, I'm still a bit wary of sticking my head under the car but it all felt stable. I referred to this post for the best place to position everything. Forums are really handy! :D

I also used some compressed air to blow out the oil from around the spark plugs and then swapped them for new NGKs. The old ones were the same part number (BKUR6ET-10) but with the VAG logos on the side. I didn't measure the electrode gaps, but they were significantly bigger than the new ones that went in so I'm guessing they were close to original.

The slightly more disappointing news is that I've found another issue with the car. Looks like both the speedo and the temperature gauge don't work properly. The speedo never seems to move and the temperature gauge occasionally moves and then drops back down. I connected up VCDS and from 01-engine I could see the coolant temp was reading 84 celsius and if I moved drove a little, the speed would increase. I then hopped into instruments (17?) and looked at the values there - 30 celsius for the temp and nothing for the speed :(

I'm a bit unsure what to check, I guess this points to a faulty instrument cluster?
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
Worth checking that the two multi plugs are in place at the rear of the instrument cluster
The temp sensor is two independent circuits so it is possible for the ecu ie engine to see correct temp and the instrument cluster to see something totally different. This sensor is rather unreliable across the VAG range

The speed could also be the sensor on the gearbox if an early A2 or the abs sensor if a latter A2
Look out for a cable going to the rear of the gearbox on the diff housing if it’s the earlier A2

The worst air filter I ever removed on an A2 looked like mice had been living in the housing for years it literally fell apart
Mechanics ignore changing it because of the need to take of the undertray


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Jack Rayner

Member
Worth checking that the two multi plugs are in place at the rear of the instrument cluster
The temp sensor is two independent circuits so it is possible for the ecu ie engine to see correct temp and the instrument cluster to see something totally different. This sensor is rather unreliable across the VAG range

The speed could also be the sensor on the gearbox if an early A2 or the abs sensor if a latter A2
Look out for a cable going to the rear of the gearbox on the diff housing if it’s the earlier A2

The worst air filter I ever removed on an A2 looked like mice had been living in the housing for years it literally fell apart
Mechanics ignore changing it because of the need to take of the undertray


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I pulled the cluster today, I think someone had been there before me as there were some broken clips and one of the labels around the instrument cluster was broken. Disconnected and reconnected the cables and it the gauges are still acting up, I probably do have a pair of faulty sensors! :D
 

Jack Rayner

Member
Mini win today. When I got the car there was a massive black mark down the side. The car lived not too far from the centre of Cambridge so I imagine this was caused by a cyclist's handlebar. I've actually witnessed this happen to other people when sitting in morning traffic of a few occasions. ;)

Before:
20200510_191250.jpg
During:
20200514_130414.jpg
After:
20200515_133316.jpg

I used some T-Cut "metallic" that I found in the shed on a microfibre cloth and it came off with a bit of elbow grease.

Also fitted a new wiper blade - not exciting, I know - I just found it funny that the Bosch AR70N I bought was actually listed for truck use! :)
20200515_132957.jpg
 

Jack Rayner

Member
Today I jacked the car up to take a look at the one of the expensive MOT failures: the offside drive shaft.

The clip holding the boot on is nowhere to be seen and there was grease all inside the wheel arch:
20200516_174301.jpg

The inner side of the drive shaft seems to be covered in a nice amount of oil, as does the back of the engine. I'm guessing this might all be coming from the failed cam cover sealant as I can see evidence of oil when looking at the top of the engine.
20200516_174334.jpg

There was also an advisory for the front brake discs, they do seem to be a bit crusty but the pads have a fair amount of life left and they don't seem to be too scored.
20200516_173417.jpg 20200516_180644.jpg

I'm thinking of just ordering a complete drive shaft (SKF VKJC 5097) rather than attempting to put a new boot on.
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
Today I jacked the car up to take a look at the one of the expensive MOT failures: the offside drive shaft.

The clip holding the boot on is nowhere to be seen and there was grease all inside the wheel arch:
View attachment 64399

The inner side of the drive shaft seems to be covered in a nice amount of oil, as does the back of the engine. I'm guessing this might all be coming from the failed cam cover sealant as I can see evidence of oil when looking at the top of the engine.
View attachment 64397

There was also an advisory for the front brake discs, they do seem to be a bit crusty but the pads have a fair amount of life left and they don't seem to be too scored.
View attachment 64398 View attachment 64400

I'm thinking of just ordering a complete drive shaft (SKF VKJC 5097) rather than attempting to put a new boot on.
Try j&r cv joints on eBay £15 delivered for the full joint clips boot and grease


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Jack Rayner

Member
Parts and tools have been ordered to do the CV boot job. 🎉I'm planning on following this guide once all of the bits have arrived.

As a side note: I asked my local Audi dealer for a price for the thread locker (D 185 400 A2) which came back as £12; unfortunately, the parts guy phoned me to say the part had been superseded for something which cost £80. Now, to me this said it's either just a larger bottle, or Audi have decided to start adding gold leaf to thread locker - regardless, I wasn't prepared to spend that much! After a quick Google search it looks like the locking compound is actually Loctite 275 - which can be had for £18 on eBay - with a VW/Audi label slapped on the tube.

I spent some time today with the isopropyl alcohol bottle removing the remnants of the 19 year old parking permit stickers from the windscreen. The post razor-blade photo with residue from a few days ago looked like this:
20200510_190620.jpg
The result looks like a normal windscreen, albeit with some nasty scratches from a previously worn wiper blade and a stone chip I need to get filled.

I also discovered whilst browsing some button replacement threads on here, that the climate control panel has a cute, little fan in it! Being a tech-nerd I happened to have my iFixit toolkit I use for disassembling MacBooks to hand, so I whipped out the T6 screws and removed the dust bunnies.

Before (still ain' got nothing on a dog owner's laptop):
20200518_194214.jpg

Nicely cleaned fan:
20200518_194940.jpg
 

unipower

Member
Re. the little fan behind the climate control panel...
My current A2 is the first car I have had with Climate control (my previous A2 had just the heater). I noticed as soon as I got it that I could hear a fan running when the Climate was switched on, even if the cabin was at the desired temperature. Seemed a bit wasteful to have a fan running under these conditions (as well as wearing out the fan).
Thinking about it, I reckon the cabin air has to be circulated through the CC panel so the CC knows the cabin temperature.

Mark
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
Re. the little fan behind the climate control panel...
My current A2 is the first car I have had with Climate control (my previous A2 had just the heater). I noticed as soon as I got it that I could hear a fan running when the Climate was switched on, even if the cabin was at the desired temperature. Seemed a bit wasteful to have a fan running under these conditions (as well as wearing out the fan).
Thinking about it, I reckon the cabin air has to be circulated through the CC panel so the CC knows the cabin temperature.

Mark
No it gets the temp for the cabin from the sensor in the vent in the dash unless it also reads the temp from the climate panel as well but this would be pulling air from the under the dash. More likely the fan is to cool the climate panels electronics


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depronman

A2OC Donor
Me too but not been that long in A2 ownership for me but I have made up for it in numbers owned

It was when doing a double din dash swap that I came across the sensor which was not used on my own A2 as it as manual heating but the double din dash was out of a car with climate control

All the best
Paul


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Jack Rayner

Member
No it gets the temp for the cabin from the sensor in the vent in the dash unless it also reads the temp from the climate panel as well but this would be pulling air from the under the dash. More likely the fan is to cool the climate panels electronics


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Ahhhhh, I was under the same impression that it was for the interior temperature monitoring. 👍
 

Jack Rayner

Member
A lot of bits from forum members arrived today! :)

20200521_130953.jpg

We have from @A2Steve:
  • "AE" CCCU + 1x "D" remote
  • Passenger side water collection bucket
  • Alarm + fuel release buttons
  • Driver side air vent
  • Cup holder
  • Alarm horn
  • 4x Wheel bolts (in case I decide to remove the locking ones)
  • Strap, spanner, screwdriver and locator peg from the toolkit
  • Grey rear floor mats
From @depronman a set of 3D printed fuse box cover clips and from @Clackers a warning triangle/first aid kit!

As well as the above, I managed to get hold of a compressor and second "D" key from eBay, plus I picked up a new set of number plates to replace the delaminating ones.

New number plates were fitted yesterday, the worst was the rear:
20200519_181539.jpg. 20200519_180956.jpg
It's hard to tell in the photo but it had delaminated so badly I could pull the reflective backing off with no effort. The after shot shows what a difference a nice, shiny set of places seems to make (or at least it makes a difference in my eyes :D ).

Next to go in were the buttons, vent and cupholders:
20200521_135709.jpg 20200521_135712.jpg 20200521_135719.jpg

Following that I reassembled the toolkit - no photos of the (almost) complete toolkit, but the compressor looks like it's never been used!
20200520_130141.jpg

Finally the first aid kit got a transplant from a spare one I had in the boot of my A5. A lot of the items in the original are probably OK, but most had expired in 2006. I've kept the expired and old items in case there's a way of donating/recycling them, otherwise some things will be used the next time I get a flesh wound.
20200521_140506.jpg
(And yes, I too find the person on the instructions being caressed mildly disturbing)
 

Jack Rayner

Member
CCCU Swap

I had purchased a CCCU from Steve hoping that it would solve all of my horrible locking issues. Unfortunately, they still remain...

Some of the weird symptoms I was experiencing included:
  • Windows rolling themselves up after locking the car (no buttons being pushed)
  • Car immediately re-locking after opening with the remote
  • Electric windows not functioning at all sometimes
  • Locking/unlocking when turning on the ignition
  • Locking/unlocking when driving the car - more prominent when turning the steering wheel
All signs pointed to my "Q" variant CCCU having gone bad so I performed the very simple swapping over with the "AE" unit. Upon swapping it over I turned the ignition on in preparation to connect VCDS Lite and check for any fault codes and immediately the car started locking/unlocking again... I scanned for codes and I was getting a 01030 code:

Code:
01030 -  Central Locking Key Switch; Driver Side; Lock
        27-00 -  Implausible Signal
I've seen this previously with the old CCCU but I assumed it was low battery related as it never immediately appeared after clearing the codes. A bit disappointed I tried all of the other things that would set off the central locking frenzy (listed above) and found that they were all still present with the "AE" CCCU. :(

I also was unable to change the value for channel 61 under adaptation to be "00003" to tell the CCCU that my car only has door modules in the front doors, so I was getting codes for lack of rear door modules and it wasn't able to lock the rear doors. I was able to pair both of the remote fobs with it, so at least that part works!

In the end I put my old "Q" unit back in the car so I could lock the rear doors and proceeded to remove the driver's door card to check the wiring behind. Everything visually looks OK, there are no signs of water ingress. I tried pulling with the looms for the lock and electric mirror out of the door module and scanning for codes - the 01030 was gone and replaced with one for the door not being able to "De-Safe", but the car was still re-locking after attempting an unlock with the key fob.

20200521_185420.jpg

In the end I completely disconnected the door module and the issues completely went away, the car locks and unlocks with no issues. So the main question I have left is: what should I try next to narrow down which part of the driver's door is faulty?


Edit: Just want to clarify that I don't think there are any issues with the CCCU I got from Steve, the coding issue I had is likely due to me and/or my copy of VCDS Lite. :) He also did tell me that it came from a 4x electric window car before I purchased it.
 
Last edited:

Proghound

Admin Team
I learned from @timmus, while it shares its internals with the AF so it has the same good reliability, unfortunately the AE CCCU is for cars with rear electric windows only. Hopefully someone is keeping an AF on the shelf as a spare for such a car and can swap with you.
 
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