Question: Gearbox oil for 085 box

John L

John L

A2OC Donor
Hi,

Just wondering which oil is best?
I have seen lots of mention of using Bluemotion gearbox oil in the A2. Is this the same as the standard oil?

The standard oil is: G 060 726 A2

Is the 2.5l quantity a result of the dual clutch or of there being less volume of parts than in a similar volume gear box? The non 1.2tdi boxes seem to only require 2.0l for filling.

Also is the box likely to have a spline or hexagonal bolt on a 2002 car?

John
 
Use Etka for the oil. Fill up to the filler plug. To remove the plug you need a hex driver. There's no dual clutch, just a single clutch plate - same as manual. Is your actuator OK now?

RAB
 
We have just changed the control rod in the actuator and will find out tomorrow if it helped!
So far it seems good but the car has been in the warm whilst we worked. The old control rod was clearly beyond its best.
I have the oil and have tried to remove the bolt but found space to be too tight for the tool I had. Do you have any recommendation for a suitable hex tool?

John
 
I got a kit today that had a 3/8inch drive and a bar wrench and it was too deep to fit in the space in front of the gearbox.
I'll make a slimmer one when I get the chance. It got stuck on the pipe behind the electrical cable.
Do you need to remove anything else to get at the drain plug? There seemed to be a cable/pipe running underneath the drain hole.

Anyhow here are some photos of the actuator rod:
WP_20140402_21_40_16_Pro.jpgWP_20140402_21_40_40_Pro.jpgWP_20140402_21_41_27_Pro.jpgDSC00801.jpgDSC00802.jpgDSC00803.jpg

It was easy to change by removing the bottom ball stud and then pulling the top ball joint off and replacing in reverse.
The bottom end of the rod was worn badly and had a broken piece of metal but the ball stud looked to be in good condition.

All in all it only took around 10-15 minutes to do once the undertray was off and the car on axle stands.

I greased the ball stud before bolting back on with molybdenum lubricant. The movement seemed much smother after reassembly.

John
 
The drain plug should be straightforward. Do you need to remove though? If you dip your (clean) finger into the oil you will find it clean - that's one advantage of a 1.2, perfect gear changes every time.

RAB
 
I have a slightly disturbing noise when the engine is very cold and suspect that the oil may not be as good as it should.

Now I have a much bigger problem:

The car engages 1st and 2nd but beeps and goes to idle whenever any other gear is selected.

So no R,3,4 or 5.

The VCDS log shows:

00263 - Transmission
27-10 - Implausible signal - Intermittent
00789 - Backup Switch (F41)
27-10 - Implausible signal - intermittent
00297 - Gearbox Speed Sensor (G38)
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent

Any ideas about any of these codes?

John
 
If the G38 signal is intermittent the clutch will release and the engine will go into idle, even if you are driving! It 'thinks' that the clutch is slipping. You can reach the sensor through the wheel arch. You have one or more poor electrical connections. Were the four electrical connectors to the actuator removed during the work?

RAB
 
No connectors were intentionally removed. I'll inspect and apply some contact cleaner.
We unplugged the battery in the hope that this would avoid disturbing anything.
The problem comes when engaging third or reverse from what I can see on stopping the engine the car drives well in first or second.
 
I would adjust the length of the rod so that it is the same length as that removed (if necessary), check the electrical connections and give it a basic setting.

RAB
 
Can you get into 3rd or 4th in tiptronic mode with the engine off? That should eliminate the gear change (or not).

RAB
 
Tiptronic with the engine off it cycles through 1-5 no problems. This was the first thing I tested when it went wrong. Then I went into a parks car park only to find that reverse had stopped functioning too!
Should you wait whist doing it or is a quick cycle enough to show problems?

John
 
If reverse won't work it means that you haven't done a basic setting John, otherwise the basic setting would have failed and you would have no gear changes! Adjust the link too. You should be OK then, assuming the electrical problems are solved.

RAB
 
I'll look for the electrical issues. These are a surprise as I did not think we touched them.
The reverse worked and then suddenly dropped out.

I have the instructions for the basic setting and will work through them now.

Hopefully it works!

John
 
Could the electrical issues be the result of a loose battery terminal previously? If the gear stick in in "N" and the ignition is in first position whilst a battery is reconnected would this cause intermittent faults to be logged?
If the basic setting is not quite right could it cause problems engaging some gears but not others? As R and 3+ are not working could this simply be a problem with the basic setting?
 
John,

A basic setting will either work for all gears or not at all. In the latter case you will have no gear changes.

RAB
 
When I go to do the basic setting I cannot do the clutch travel sender adaptation as the plug has a broken clip and is secured with a cable tie! (another awful repair from the dealer on something they have broken!) and when I try the gear actuator adaptation I choose basic setting in block 02 and it shows IGN. OFF.
Is there anyway to skip the first stage? It would be useful an I do not have a cable tie...

John
 
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