Radio reception issues [SOLVED]

Surely if the boot is full of water almost up to battery terminals, then is it called the diversity unit is submerged, or am I losing the plot.

Andy
@Andrew
You're probably right. I don't know where antenna amp etc is located, but the head unit wiring is not the first priority right now, is it.
I'll go to bed I think.
Mac.
 
Surely if the boot is full of water almost up to battery terminals, then is it called the diversity unit is submerged, or am I losing the plot.

Andy
I am not sure if the problem will be the unit or just the connectors. Try them and see if it helps. But since you have an aftermarket head unit it might not be relevant.
Steve B
 
@Andrew
You're probably right. I don't know where antenna amp etc is located, but the head unit wiring is not the first priority right now, is it.
I'll go to bed I think.
Mac.
Apparently 4 FM amplifiers, learned this here but had forgotten OP has aftermarket head unt.


Andy
 
The switched 12 volts would have come from the OEM radio. Most (if not all) aftermarket radios also have a switched 12 volts output (for antenna amp, rear audio amp control etc).
I think most A2 are canbus, and the OEM radio only had a permanent 12 volts, with switching (on with ignition, off with key out) via that data bus. If you fit an aftermarket radio, you usually need to pick up a switched "accessories" 12, volts to control the radio, so it goes on and off with the ignition key, like the OEM unit did. I don't have any A2 circuit schematics, but it usually comes from the key switch.
Your need a permanent 12 volts to retain station programing, and I'm guessing this is present and correct. If anyone has a circuit we can find the accessories switched supply, hopefully the A2 has one ...
If so, you won't have to switch on and off manually. Fingers crossed.
Mac.
My A2 is a 2001 model and doesn't have canbus. I don't have rear speakers so don't need a feed for an amplifier. I have never found an aftermarket radio with a 12v output for an FM antenna. The Pure 260/240's do have a 12v antenna supply but only for DAB. There is only an unswitched supply for the radio and manual switching is fine for me.

RAB
 
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OK, so would appear that there are no amps visible in the boot section - they would have been drowned anyway had they been in there....
IMG_7644.jpg



I do appear to have a section for some kind of CD changer maybe? This never came with the car, but the Symphony head did and I still have this. Wondering if it's worth selling?

Finally, still somewhat confused: Do I or do I not need an inline aerial booster with an aftermarket head unit?

thanks all.
 

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Why not just put the Symphony unit back in the car after taking out the aftermarket one and the booster. The little box in the picture is for the sat nav drive.
 
My opinion is that if the Symphony worked OK, then the antenna signal was good. So, should be good still (as long as the adapter cable/HU duplicates the OEM setup). However, I'm with @audifan once the "dampness" is sorted, refit the Symphony, and add a BT adapter to give full functionality. OEM is the best look (imo).
Mac.
 
Finally, still somewhat confused: Do I or do I not need an inline aerial booster with an aftermarket head unit?

Try it without but in my experience with two Lupo 3L's and and an A2, it is required, as other posters on here will testify.

RAB
 
My opinion is that if the Symphony worked OK, then the antenna signal was good. So, should be good still (as long as the adapter cable/HU duplicates the OEM setup). However, I'm with @audifan once the "dampness" is sorted, refit the Symphony, and add a BT adapter to give full functionality. OEM is the best look (imo).
Mac.

I don't actually know if the Symphony worked/works, as this was out of the car by the time I bought it. There was a single din very cheap and nasty after market head which I then replaced (about 7yrs ago) with a double din touch screen head, which does all the BT stuff etc. I have to agree the Symphony looks a quality piece of kit and almost new - never looked at it before today - but I worry as the world of DAB takes over that it would have to be changed in the not too distant future. What I also don't really have a handle on is how much of the loom behind the head unit has been changed from the OEM. I know that when the current head unit was put in, a new harness was installed, no doubt to match the unit, so my guess is that this will not be correct for the Symphony unit.

Lots to think about, repair and test!
 
Given a good aerial signal, DAB is inferior to FM as regards sound quality. The threat to the FM signal has receded. However, due to the nature of the FM aerial in an A2, DAB might be a better option (with an additional aerial).

Has the current aftermarket radio been installed with an adaptor loom between the radio and radio connections?

RAB
 
Has the current aftermarket radio been installed with an adaptor loom between the radio and radio connections?

RAB

Not entirely sure. I see what you are getting at....Potentially I just remove the adaptor loom and I am back to OEM, which could plug directly back into the Symphony. Will check if that is the case, just as soon as other half brings the car back.
 
If they have butchered the OEM loom you could take the loom from a breaker and repair it back to factory. The Symphony unit really is good, also talks to the car through the Canbus.
 
In the context of reinstalling your OEM Symphony unit.

1. I know little about this so feel free to ignore the following.
2. A picture of a diversity unit that was used with a Symphony unit identical to yours.
image.jpeg


I notice in your picture you appear to have a connector missing (black second from right). Maybe removed as part of aftermarket head unit install, probably hanging loose somewhere.

3. I remember a post by a member who had a similiar damp issue to you and aerial problems. Although the diversity unit appeared fine, on opening it up the circuit board had green mould and had to be replaced to remedy reception. If the reception is still poor open up to dry off and inspect.

Andy
 
@Andrew I have zoomed in to the picture and although can not guarantee it is connected you can see the cable wrapped in its Tesa tape running to the connector. Spot on about the chance of internal yuk.
 
In the context of reinstalling your OEM Symphony unit.

3. I remember a post by a member who had a similiar damp issue to you and aerial problems. Although the diversity unit appeared fine, on opening it up the circuit board had green mould and had to be replaced to remedy reception. If the reception is still poor open up to dry off and inspect.

Andy

thanks Andy, very helpful. As far as I can see, I have potentially two problems with reception apart from the missing wire:

1) The diversity unit/photo that you have is in reference to the connectors that I can see behind (top of my photo) the empty box that I thought was for a CD changer right? I can only assume that if this is the case then any PCB attached must be ruined by the water? Does this form part of a connection to the aerial in the rear window, and if so then I would need to change this to restore reception?
2) If the flooding of (1) not relevant, then that leaves me with a) coax connections to rear window being broken or b) the actual filament in the window being broken, which I can check by running rear window demist and seeing if it works, as this forms part of the aerial?

Hope I have that right.
 
Remove the diversity unit, disconnect all leads then open it up. If it is only damp dry it of with hot air. Then use some IPA or contact cleaner to make sure there is nothing on the board lightly scrubbing with an old toothbrush, clean the external connectors and the plugs the same way and dry off well before refitting everything. Remove the double din and look at the connectors. Hopefully there will be and adapter in there that fits between the head unit and the Audi loom about say 6-10 inches long with multi coloured connectors on it. If so then unplug adapter and plug in the Symphony head unit, remember the aerial connector. As the car is a 2003 the car should have remember the code for the Symphony (assuming that was the unit previously fitted). If not then you will need a code for it. Use on of the services on ebay that provide you the code using the units serial number.
It is very rare for the actual glass aerial to fail, what is more common is the wiring to break where it passes from the tailgate to the body at the top of the opening. I would do the diversity unit first. Try wiggling the cables as the pass into the body that nay show if there is a broken wire although it may not flex the cable enough to make / break the connection. Not 100% sure but do not think the glass aerial and heater elements share all the grid in the window. Could well be wrong on this point. Would have to check on my own car to verify.
 
Looking at Elsawin, it would appear that the aerials (four I think) are separate from the heater element. However, switching on the heater doesn't do much for reception!

RAB
 
@Andrew I have zoomed in to the picture and although can not guarantee it is connected you can see the cable wrapped in its Tesa tape running to the connector. Spot on about the chance of internal yuk.
See what you mean. Ignore my suggestion of a missing connector. - Andy
 
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