Rear brake drums... seized... corroded advice needed.

[bye_bye_alfa]

I could do with a bit of advice.

After replacing rear shocks and springs... thought I'd get on with sorting out the back brakes, but it's all turning into a bit of a mess.

Can't get the bleed nipple out, spanner just slips around it.
Can't get the cylinder bolt out, as it's too badly corroded and b****red.
The brake pipe/line is turning when I try to unloosen, I suspect it will shear if I get a bit more rough with it.

I wasn't going to remove the wheel bearing, but as I struggled to get the shoes off, I have now removed it, thinking this should be replaced?

I'm no mechanic, thought I'd test myself... wishing now I hadn't bothered.

After having a good look, thought I might take the drum plate off... got a 16mm socket, but there isn't clearance with the stub to get the socket on.
16mm conventional spanner is the one I don't have.

The drum plate looks worse for wear, presume this is not unusual? Is there a cheaper source than the ones on ebay which will come in at £150 for both.

I've attached a few pics, so you can see the state of play.

Any advice appreciated.


bba

 

[birtyA2]

Looks very similar to mine to be honest, so following this thread with interest. From other threads I have read, advice seems to be to undo the back plate ( when you get your spanner ) and rotate the whole back plate rather than try to undo the break line which will stop the rotation you experienced. Plenty of PB Blaster over a number of days called for before hand.

I have been contemplating a full axle refurb off car

J

 

[simufly]

From your description, and looking at the pictures it does appear that the brake pipe is toast. The moment it starts to twist with the securing nut it is history as they are not designed to accept torsional forces. IMO you need a new portion of pipe. For the nipple just use a pair a mole grips, when that is out the way use the grips again on the bolt securing the slave. If you really can not undo the bolt on the slave you will need to drill it out, although hammering on an appropriate size socket and using a big breaker bar usually works for me. I suppose you could remove the backplate to make the drilling easier but I suggest there would be problems going down that route, but in any event the brake pipe would have to be found. To avoid draining the fluid you will need to clamp off the rubber hoses just infront of the rear axle when the metal pipes are breached.

 

[bye_bye_alfa]

Thanks chaps.

Will have another blast at it, and will see what I can do regarding the brake lines... I hadn't realised they don't seem readily available.

Part of me wishes I hadn't started but, I'm sure once I get a win, it will be a different story.

 

[audifan]

Easy enough to get the local garage to make up some rigid brake pipes. I prefer to use kunifer for the brake pipes...

4 Reasons To Choose Kunifer Brake Pipe

Kunifer Brake Pipes are the first choice of experts around the world because of their features, like a longer life span, less prone to breaking, and many more.

www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk

Most of the back plates will clean up with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Once clean and loose paint removed you can paint the back plates, just do not paint over the PTFE shoe sliders - saying that you may well want to replace them now as probably worn or missing.

 

[audifan]

BTW, do not leave the slave cylinder like that as I am pretty sure one or both pistons will pop out and drain down the fluid. Either tape them in or sturdy elastic band then in place.

 

[bye_bye_alfa]

Only spotted your post this morning, don't have to worry about the cylinder letting go, as one side seems seized, so fortunately it's stayed put.

Yes you are correct the shoe sliders (thanks for the terminology) are pretty much non existent.

So another quick question, if I wanted/needed to change the rear brake hoses, how do you stop the fluid leaking?
God only knows if I'll be able to undo the nuts without issue.

 

[Little Dog]

Where is Grim up North ? Looks like you could use some help.

Brake reservoir cap without a vent hole. Then plug pipes at ABS. Then replace flexibles.

 

[Dogbrain]

Mine had a both rear brakes surgery in a shop before Christmas last year. New everything.
The symptoms were rear left wheel fully locking out of nowhere. When I picked up speed, i noticed sudden drag but the wheel didn't lock. Good thing there was no ice on the road.
I didn't know what was happening so I didn't figure to ask the mechanics to take a photo of what they found there though i thought the spring that pulls the shoes together was toasted. They told me that when they removed the drum, all pieces inside just fell off. They were absolutely totaled by rust.

I guess from now on I'll have to check my rear brakes when swapping winter wheels because a few months after the repair my drums are all fully rusted again with noises when braking. Not sure what they put there because the drums were all shiny and beautiful when I picked up the car.

BTW, do not leave the slave cylinder like that as I am pretty sure one or both pistons will pop out and drain down the fluid. Either tape them in or sturdy elastic band then in place.

Is it necessary when the shoes are in?

 

[JavaGreen]

Last year, I bought everything I need for a break overhaul (including cylinders) from Crewe Audi. Give them a try. Did cost, however, nice to know that you get the correct parts.

Not done the job yet, but it is pending.

Funnily enough, the fsi needs a rear break overhaul, that is imminent as I currently use this daily. The 1.4 is not being used till summer.

 

[Howey]

Easy enough to get the local garage to make up some rigid brake pipes. I prefer to use kunifer for the brake pipes...

4 Reasons To Choose Kunifer Brake Pipe

Kunifer Brake Pipes are the first choice of experts around the world because of their features, like a longer life span, less prone to breaking, and many more.

www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk

Most of the back plates will clean up with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Once clean and loose paint removed you can paint the back plates, just do not paint over the PTFE shoe sliders - saying that you may well want to replace them now as probably worn or missing.

Amen! Kunifer is so much better and tends to come undone in the future where copper struggles!
Too late now but heat may have saved the day, however that's easier said than done!