Rear door doesn't close, lock/unlock & window doesn't work, lights won't go off. All in same time.

Sylvester

Active Member
Hi all, I'd stopped by the fuel station after shopping, all good no issues. At the fuel statiom some hail fell down for 10 minutes, outside temperature dropped to +3.5 in minutes. I opened the cap manually, 90% of time doesn't work for years, but after driving off the inside lights didn't turn off automatically. Driving back showed no other issues.
At home, after further investigation, turns out (1)the key fob doesn't lock the left rear left door, (2) rear door electric window doesn't work at all, (3) the driver door lock button doesn't lock ANYTHING, no any kind of sound either.
This seems a bit sudden all go down at once, especially when the temperature dropped so suddenly too, might not be related though. Could be earthing issue, not sure where to check for those, or might be something else. VAG shows no issues.
Any advice appreciated, thanks a lot.

Edit: After 10 minutes the light went off, all still the same though.
 

Robin_Cox

Member
Could the CCCU be playing up? (isn't that the one that controls all the doors, windows, things dependent on door closure etc.)?
 

Darren C

Admin Team
Could be either of the above suggestions. You could always disconnect and reconnect the battery and see if that resets anything. It might provide a temporary fix to secure the car, though I suspect there is a bigger issue that will require resolving.
 

Sylvester

Active Member
Could be either of the above suggestions. You could always disconnect and reconnect the battery and see if that resets anything. It might provide a temporary fix to secure the car, though I suspect there is a bigger issue that will require resolving.
I've disconnected the battery -side for a minute, issue is still there.
I've noticed the bottom battery tray is wet. I'd cleaned the drain holes few months ago though.
Also the -battery connection has some weird marks on it, a bit was even hanging off, I've pushed that back and attached the connector back.
I've left the battery compartment lid open to dry it out, not sure that's the issue as it happened before and electronics were fine.
Thanks
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
I've disconnected the battery -side for a minute, issue is still there.
I've noticed the bottom battery tray is wet. I'd cleaned the drain holes few months ago though.
Also the -battery connection has some weird marks on it, a bit was even hanging off, I've pushed that back and attached the connector back.
I've left the battery compartment lid open to dry it out, not sure that's the issue as it happened before and electronics were fine.
Thanks
A picture tells a thousand words.

There are no drainage holes in the battery compartment?????

Andy
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Have you checked the auxiliary positive supplies? The little black box bolted onto the positive clamp for tightness on the clamp and that all the internal connections are clean and tight?
 

Kleynie

Member
I had a similar issue on our project (daughters) car, the rear door did not lock at all and the window was intermittent. It turned out to be dodgy corroded connectors where the wires go through the B pillar, seen as rubber bellows inbetween the door hinges. However, as your interior light did not go out I would say the car still thinks the door is open, hence not locking from the fob or the interior lock button. So that points to the door micro switch to me, and that is a real pain to get to as the door card needs to be removed, as well as the aluminium panel beneath it.
Ian
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Ian you have a very valid point. Those B pillar wires also contain the door open microswitch wiring. Dont you just love old A2 electrics. Just about every topic in the service manual opens with a paragraph about contact corrosion.
 

Kleynie

Member
Ian you have a very valid point. Those B pillar wires also contain the door open microswitch wiring. Dont you just love old A2 electrics. Just about every topic in the service manual opens with a paragraph about contact corrosion.
Probably worth checking them first as it’s easy to do if you have small fingers and 30 mins of patience
Ian
 

Kleynie

Member
Remove the rubber bellows by pulling, then there is a purple retaining clip on the connector block that pushes sideways to unlock it, then squeeze the tabs and pull away from the car. It’s easier on the rear doors as access can be gained from both sides with both doors open.
The reason I removed the interior B pillar trim was that the clips where broken, and pulling the connector away from the car just pulled the whole thing through the hole in the B pillar, so removing the trim allowed me to hold the body of the connector from inside the car.
Ian
 

Sylvester

Active Member
Have you checked the auxiliary positive supplies? The little black box bolted onto the positive clamp for tightness on the clamp and that all the internal connections are clean and tight?
It was getting dark and I haven't checked the + side, I'll do that after work, though all the other electronic parts work, might worth a check, cheers.
 

Sylvester

Active Member
I had a similar issue on our project (daughters) car, the rear door did not lock at all and the window was intermittent. It turned out to be dodgy corroded connectors where the wires go through the B pillar, seen as rubber bellows inbetween the door hinges. However, as your interior light did not go out I would say the car still thinks the door is open, hence not locking from the fob or the interior lock button. So that points to the door micro switch to me, and that is a real pain to get to as the door card needs to be removed, as well as the aluminium panel beneath it.
Ian
Yes I had a feeling it might be the door microswitch, I still hope it might be that connector or something easier to replace/fix.
The lights didn't even go out when I drive either. When I carry something in the boot and have to leave it open, that boot light goes out after a few minutes, but now even after 10minutes still both open and rear lights were on. Later when I parked up, they turned off, not even sure how long that took. Cheers
 

Sylvester

Active Member
Have you checked the auxiliary positive supplies? The little black box bolted onto the positive clamp for tightness on the clamp and that all the internal connections are clean and tight?
This is how the bit was hanging off looked like, after I pushed it back a bit. Didn't change anything unfortunately , still rear door is unresponsive.
The - and + are a bit wet, the whole battery is due the bit of water on the bottom of the tray, but all the other electrics work fine, so I don't think that causes the issue, cheers.
 

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