Rear offside electric window removal

has anyone got info on how to remove the glass/motor for the rear offside door. I have had the trim off but can work out how to squeeze out the wind/mechanism.?? From what I can see it looks like the plastic part connecting to the wire that raises / lowers the window has broken. Thanks in advance. Paul
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
I know the construction of the A2's doors inside out, but I don't quite understand the stage at which you're stuck. What precisely are you looking to fix/replace?

Cheers,

Tom
 

humps

A2OC Donor
the motor unit is held on with 3 (?) torx screws. undo them first. Then it is a bit of gentle pulling around to remove the wind motor unit.
 
thanks, I took the inner metal cover off, but although I could see the motor and screws I cant see I can get access to replace the plastic clip that attaches the window to the wire. Are you saying if I remove the motor all becomes apparent if so I will give it a go at the weekend weather permitting. Also next question is do they sell parts or is it the whole assy I have to buy? Just so you know what happened, when we had a very cold snap my wife thought it a good idea to lower the window (to clear the frost) which worked but when she went to raise it it wouldn't move so she physically pulled it up, that when she heard something break! I have tie wrapped the assy as tight as possible in the up position to it stays shut, but summer is coming I hope and it would be nice to use it again :) BTW the motor works fine just the window isn't attached to the motor/wire as the plastic is broken that grips the wire. Hope that all makes sense? Cheers
 

humps

A2OC Donor
picture speaks for a thousand words! I vaguely know what you're referring to as the plastic part, from memory when I fully disassembled my door. But if you post a picture, it'll help us help you!
 
will do when I can get access to it, I guess I will have to take the motor out first as I did most of it by touch last time through the available holes. cheers
 
Hi guys, long time since my last post. The reason is, I managed to tie wrap around the raiser wire and the broken plastic clamp. But as it was only a temporary fix its given up, and now my window keeps dropping, just when the rain has started again! Back to my question though if you all don't mind too much. I saw from one diagram that it looks like the whole window section and frame seem to lift up and out of the door, is this correct? that would explain the total lack of space to do anything in place. I can only work out side and at weekend being its dark when I get home during the week :( . Its my daily car so how long would the job take. I can take pictures once I can remove the glass motor/frame etc, if it indeed does come apart. Are there any links, a diagram, or can someone post some?
cheers all, and thanks for reading.
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
Hi Blue Bottle,

What precisely are you looking to fix/replace? Are you looking to replace the entire frame? It's not particularly clear from your posts so far.
Yes, the window frame lifts up and out once you've removed 4 Torx45 bolts (two inside the frame at the bottom, two at the top of the frame, behind the door rubber).

Cheers,

Tom
 
Hi Blue Bottle,

What precisely are you looking to fix/replace? Are you looking to replace the entire frame? It's not particularly clear from your posts so far.
Yes, the window frame lifts up and out once you've removed 4 Torx45 bolts (two inside the frame at the bottom, two at the top of the frame, behind the door rubber).

Cheers,

Tom

Hi well the truth is I cant clearly see it (because I havent fully dismantled it as I didnt know up till now it could be separated) but it looks like a white plasic clamp/ clip that runs in the channel and the wire pulls the window up and down via it, i think its the white plastic part is clipped through the window at some point, again lack of view is giving me/you limited info, sorry. but I hope that clarifies it better?
So I am looking at just replacing the clip (if pos) that has somehow broken, the tie wrap was tight enough uptill now to hold the wire into the clip/window part.
Cheers
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
...truth is I cant clearly see it because I haven't fully dismantled it as I didn't know up till now it could be separated.

I'm afraid that the word 'it' isn't a particularly clear communicator, though I think I'm now with you. The plastic part that holds the base of the glass to the guide rail has broken, correct?

I think that this part is not available on its own, but that it comes as part of the entire window frame assembly. Could someone with easy access to ETKA please confirm?

Cheers,

Tom
 

hotstuff

Member
Ok, to clarify.
The rear window lift mechanism is operated by a fine cable pulled through two pulley wheels, located at the top and bottom of the glass clamp rail. The "white plastic" part that the OP is referring to is the geared glass clamp that attaches to the glass and moves vertically to lift and lower the glass. The manual version is constructed to take the winder handle whilst the electric version accommodated the motor spindle. The glass clamp is fitted to the rail according to the vehicle spec and the two versions are not interchangeable. You CAN however order the entire lift mechanism from Audi. Once the upper door frame is removed from the lower door panel, the old lift mechanism can be drilled free and the new unit fitted by way of rivets or screw/nut combination.

This is a fairly complex task that can be done by a competent DIY'er but caution is advised. There is a definite sequence to tightening the upper door frame bolts as well as adjustment elements that must be in their correct position prior to fitment. Dismissing these precautions will have an adverse impact on the alignment and subsequent air/water tightness of the door in question.

May I suggest that you consider asking for assistance in the repair of your window lifter. Tom, myself and others have the necessary skill, knowledge and tools to perform this repair confidently.

The following pics will help you to visualise, hope they help.

blue skies

tony
IMG_0285.JPGIMG_0287.JPGIMG_0288.JPGIMG_0289.JPGIMG_0290.JPGIMG_0286.JPG
 

hotstuff

Member
Just another point - the glass lifter, whether manual or electric, cannot be accessed for repairs unless the upper door frame is removed from the lower door panel.

blue skies
tony
 

timmus

A2OC Donor
As Tony says, there's a definite sequence to putting the doors back together again. Getting the alignment right by trial and error is not something you're going to enjoy!
 
Just another point - the glass lifter, whether manual or electric, cannot be accessed for repairs unless the upper door frame is removed from the lower door panel.

blue skies
tony
Many thanks Hotstuff and all you guys, the pictures are fantastic, when I first dismantled the door card I didn't know the top part of the door could be lifted out! Now I feel a lot more confident to have a go with this repair. I am fairly competent so will give it a go. I am down near Portsmouth and you guys seem to be around the Midlands and further north. If I get into trouble is there any member local that could help out if I get into a pickle. I realise when the window/motor limits etc go out of sync its a pain, but hopefully all will go well. I am probably looking at having a go nearer to Christmas as I a couple of weeks off so if things take longer to do it wont be too much of a pain. Thanks all I will let you know how I get on. BTW the white plastic part is what has broken as far as I could see, is there a p/n for this from Audi? Cheers
 

Captain059

Member
I have had the same problem on my driver's windows at a toll booth.
You will need a rivet tool with 4.2mm rivets (*2).
On mine, the plastic runner on one of the bottom corner was completely broken.
The whole kit cost £106 from Audi. Don't buy the rivets from Audi, too expensive!!
Unfortunately, I haven't moved to your area yet, probably in March. However, I would not mind coming to help you on a dry week end.
Hope that helps.
 
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sorry for the late reply Captain059, I hope your move goes /went ok, thanks for the offer. sounds like a lot of money! There are a couple of "whole" top frames with glass and white plasic/cable setup for about £40 on fleabay p/n321262045897, it seems to make sense to buy one of them as its compleate and just drop in, but then nothing is that easy I guess!!! Cheers


I have had the same problem on my driver's windows at a toll booth.
You will need a rivet tool with 4.2mm rivets (*2).
On mine, the plastic runner on one of the bottom corner was completely broken.
The whole kit cost £106 from Audi. Don't buy the rivets from Audi, too expensive!!
Unfortunately, I haven't moved to your area yet, probably in March. However, I would not mind coming to help you on a dry week end.
Hope that helps.
 
with reference to my last post if I buy the fleabay "solution" how easy is it to change the glass if the tint is different?
Many thanks again

sorry for the late reply Captain059, I hope your move goes /went ok, thanks for the offer. sounds like a lot of money! There are a couple of "whole" top frames with glass and white plasic/cable setup for about £40 on fleabay p/n321262045897, it seems to make sense to buy one of them as its compleate and just drop in, but then nothing is that easy I guess!!! Cheers
 

lfield

Member
As Tony says, there's a definite sequence to putting the doors back together again. Getting the alignment right by trial and error is not something you're going to enjoy!
You mentioned that there's a definite sequence to putting the doors back together again. Is this sequence documented anywhere?
 
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