Rear Seat Bracket Removal

Antiguakidd

Antiguakidd

Member
I can't fold down the drivers side, rear seat in my audi A2. I cant seam to pull the handle on the top corner of the seat up enough to release the pin. I think I am going to have to cut the bracket. But can anyone enlighten me how I could remove it?

Thanks
 
Two M8 spline bolts, but you have to get at least the top of the boot side panel out of the way to get to them, which may involve taking off the C-pillar and D-pillar trims. There's one Torx screw, the rest is just clips but be careful of the rearmost one in the hatch opening, best if you can lift the panel upwards at that point rather than pull it outwards. Oh and if you have the false floor you may need to pull off the plastic rail.
 
Proghound said:
Two M8 spline bolts, but you have to get at least the top of the boot side panel out of the way to get to them, which may involve taking off the C-pillar and D-pillar trims. There's one Torx screw, the rest is just clips but be careful of the rearmost one in the hatch opening, best if you can lift the panel upwards at that point rather than pull it outwards. Oh and if you have the false floor you may need to pull off the plastic rail.
Click to expand...
Thanks for replying. But I have no idea what most of that means. Could you simplify for me?
 
Antiguakidd said:
I can't fold down the drivers side, rear seat in my audi A2. I cant seam to pull the handle on the top corner of the seat up enough to release the pin. I think I am going to have to cut the bracket. But can anyone enlighten me how I could remove it?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Looking at from the boot side I would try some upward force to the locking bolt as you pull up on the handle. There is enough room to get a pair of pin nosed pliers in the gap with the horizontal locking plate. Best to familiarise yourself with what you can't see by looking at the other side and if possible engage an assistant to pull up while you fiddle in the gap.
If it goes up part way you can get the flat of a large single slot screwdriver under the bolt end to push up. I have another idea but try this first.

Andy
 
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Andrew said:
Looking at from the boot side I would try some upward force to the locking bolt as you pull up on the handle. There is enogh room to get a pair of pin nosed pliers in the gap with the horizontal locking plate. Best to familiarise yourself with what you can't see by looking at the other side and if possible engage an assistant to pull up while you fiddle in the gap.
If it goes up part way you can get the flat of a large single slot screwdriver under the bolt end to push up. I have another idea but try this first.

Andy
Click to expand...
I've been able to pull up the sheath covering on the pin through the back of the chair but cant get it to release so that the chair can fold. Whats your other idea?
 
Antiguakidd said:
I've been able to pull up the sheath covering on the pin through the back of the chair but cant get it to release so that the chair can fold. Whats your other idea?
Click to expand...
Sorry no time now, got to cook the evening meal and it will be dark when next free. I can look tomorrow if need be.

I understand what you are saying about the sheath, but is the bolt sufficiently raised to see the bottom of it?

I think what Proghound is proposing is to remove trim panels so the the horizontal locking plate cab be unbolted. The seat will then move forward to gain access to the the plastic trim on the side covering the mechanism. Remove this, not obvious how, ask if you go down this route. There hopefully will then be access to release the pin mechanically.

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Sorry no time now, got to cook the evening meal and it will be dark when next free. I can look tomorrow if need be.

I understand what you are saying about the sheath, but is the bolt sufficiently raised to see the bottom of it?

I think what Proghound is proposing is to remove trim panels so the the horizontal locking plate cab be unbolted. The seat will then move forward to gain access to the the plastic trim on the side covering the mechanism. Remove this, not obvious how, ask if you go down this route. There hopefully will then be access to release the pin mechanically.

Andy
Click to expand...
I cant get it up enough but I will try again when I have a chance. Otherwise will just have to resort to cutting the thing off. Would like some more detailed info on how to remove the trim panels. That would be very helpful
 
Before you do anything drastic.
I had the same problem and found a solution on the forum which worked.
Basically it said
Go into the rear of your car and kneel on the seat in question facing the back window and operate the handle whilst gently bouncing on your knees. The seat and handle will free itself and has happened because the catch hasn’t engaged properly.
You’ll hear it click and the handle will work and the seat will fold as it should.
Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
dougster said:
Before you do anything drastic.
I had the same problem and found a solution on the forum which worked.
Basically it said
Go into the rear of your car and kneel on the seat in question facing the back window and operate the handle whilst gently bouncing on your knees. The seat and handle will free itself and has happened because the catch hasn’t engaged properly.
You’ll hear it click and the handle will work and the seat will fold as it should.
Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I'll try this next time I get out there
 
Andrew said:
I think what Proghound is proposing is to remove trim panels so the the horizontal locking plate cab be unbolted. The seat will then move forward to gain access to the the plastic trim on the side covering the mechanism. Remove this, not obvious how, ask if you go down this route. There hopefully will then be access to release the pin mechanically.
Click to expand...

I was indeed pointing out the trim panel removal needed to get at the bolts for the locking plate. This is so the OP could remove its remains and replace it after he followed his original suggestion to cut the locking plate to free the seat. I doubt you'd get in there at all with the seat still locked to it. I hope the kneel, bounce & handle trick works for seats stuck up as well as it does for seats stuck down.
 
It certainly did for me, I had that exact problem seat locked in the up position and handle wouldn’t pull up to release.
Did the kneel bounce trick and it released.
In my case as with most when the seats lock it was caused by the seat base not being located correctly and by bouncing on the base this caused the base to engage correctly and as soon as that happened the release handle worked correctly and the seat folded as if like magic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
now I re-read... there is a couple of things here:
- there will very likely be something trapped between the seat back and the lock. The lock itself is really rather robust and breaking it is simply not an option. It's built to withstand crash forces...
- But the locking of the base is actually really important. If it's not 100% correct, then the position of the back to the lock and the plunger that holds it in place is not good, and may mean that it can't be moved by the top lever.

When was the last time it was folded, who did it and who put it back?

- Bret
 
I assume you have not yet released the seat back.

Far too early for drastic butchery. Please be patient, the mechanisms on these seats are quite robust and while it is true there is a very small chance that something is actually broken there is a far far far greater chance the malfunction is caused by something simply being out of kilter.

Many respondents point out the need for the base of the seat to be locked square to the floor. It should be like this

image.jpeg


I will only do my best to assist further if you answer direct questions. If you feel a question is irrelevant please do not ignore it, the person asking may be aware of something you are not, remember we cannot see your seat.

Let's get the seat base question resolved.

IS THE SEAT BASE FLUSH TO THE FLOOR AS PER PICTURE?

Andy
 
Andrew said:
I assume you have not yet released the seat back.

Far too early for drastic butchery. Please be patient, the mechanisms on these seats are quite robust and while it is true there is a very small chance that something is actually broken there is a far far far greater chance the malfunction is caused by something simply being out of kilter.

Many respondents point out the need for the base of the seat to be locked square to the floor. It should be like this

View attachment 44013

I will only do my best to assist further if you answer direct questions. If you feel a question is irrelevant please do not ignore it, the person asking may be aware of something you are not, remember we cannot see your seat.

Let's get the seat base question resolved.

IS THE SEAT BASE FLUSH TO THE FLOOR AS PER PICTURE?

Andy
Click to expand...
It looks pretty much flat but I am not entirely sure it is perfect
 
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