Removing gear selector cables.

simufly

A2OC Donor
United-Kingdom
Are these just a press fit onto the gearbox arms or is there a special way of removing them? P1040111.JPG
 
There is another way. Don’t pull them off at that joint, but instead go to the other end of the spring. You can pull the black plastic grooved wheel as far as it will go then turn it to lock it in the cable-release position. That will allow the cable end to be carefully separated from the cable. When you reconnect it, you’ll need to do a cable alignment, for which there are instructions on here somewhere.
Matt


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i take it the black pin is part of the box and not an separate tool ?

Hi Wayne ... yes, it's permanently mounted on the side and locates by pushing down and jiggling the counterweight until the lever pushes in and locks the gearbox prior to setting ... the other pin, well you can buy the right tool or use a tight fitting bent nail to lock the gearstick ... done the procedure a few times over the years and works great.
 
I had been having problems with gear selection, followed the adjustment thread which worked for a trip once round the block and then back as before.

I have now found that one of the claws that grips the cable has snapped off meaning that it does not hold the adjustment.

Can this section of the cable be bought separately and does the ball joint just unclip?

It's on a 1.6 FSI

@A2 Steve - do you have these bits on your breaker?

Thanks
 

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I had been having problems with gear selection, followed the adjustment thread which worked for a trip once round the block and then back as before.

I have now found that one of the claws that grips the cable has snapped off meaning that it does not hold the adjustment.

Can this section of the cable be bought separately and does the ball joint just unclip?

It's on a 1.6 FSI

@A2 Steve - do you have these bits on your breaker?

Thanks
the spring-loaded clip on cable ends (in both push-on and clip-on versions) are readily available online from many suppliers (of variable quality reputation) if the usual suppliers such as A2Steve and Clackers are unable to get you a suitable one or two from a breaker. I bought some a few months back to try a 'short-shift' modification, and as the TT counterweight needed for this uses the clip-on rather than ball-joint fitting (used on all versions of the A2), I needed new cable ends. Haven't got round to fitting them yet (the old gearbox failed first and I haven't had tinkering time since).
 
thanks, can you please point me towards suppliers of new in case Steve doesn't have anything.
In the event of needing to find the part, you need 7zap A2 page 7 -


and then specifically -


I think it is Part 46 - 1J0711761A
 
I've always used this method as described in the audi manual

forth page along referring to the open ended ring spanner on the ball joint
 
Hi @Walkersman , what lead you to diagnosis of damaged cable ends? I’m clutching at straws here and I think my gear change issues are more likely to be in the gear box ?. But it would be really good news if it turned out to be this fix instead…. What was your gear change like before and what’s it like with the new bits?

cheers

Greg
 
The cross the gate movement became very sloppy, you could select reverse without any form of detent and fifth gear was not available. I followed the guidelines for cable adjustment, worked for a mile and then failed. Stripped the cables back down and found the broken bit which was not gripping the cable.
Hope that helps
 
@steve54 on a scale of 1-10 how easy is it to replace those cable end clips. I’ve got a couple of new ones but I’m concerned I might damage something when I get the 13 spanner under the clip and lever it off…. ?
 
Once I read about the spanner way of removal it was quite easy, say a 7. Depending on the model you have, my FSI has no room around the cable ends but on my TDI it would be a simple job
 
i have an FSI and had no problems at all doing this job, the audi workshop manual has helped me no end in doing all my work
 
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