Replacement of anti-roll bar

[21iceman21]

Good morning all,

I purchased a new anti roll bar with fitting kit from my local Audi garage. Anyone got any prior experience of fitting it and whether I need to drop the subframe in the process.

Cheers
Ben

 

[bretti_kivi]

yes and yes. It is not that complicated. Mark the subframe location before dropping it.

Why are you replacing the complete ARB?
Replacing the droplinks and the bushes should be enough I would have thought.....my droplinks are about due for a replacement again, I think, after 6 years. Meyle HD

 

[21iceman21]

yes and yes. It is not that complicated. Mark the subframe location before dropping it.

Why are you replacing the complete ARB?
Replacing the droplinks and the bushes should be enough I would have thought.....my droplinks are about due for a replacement again, I think, after 6 years. Meyle HD

Hello
Thanks for your advice.
I replaced both droplinks last Summer but that hasn't resolve the knocking . I figured I should rule out all other areas of weakness one by one in the hope that I get a smoother ride. The other train of thought was to procure genuine parts from Audi before they become obsolete.

 

[Robin_Cox]

if the droplinks have been changed but the ARB bushes are still original they will still knock horribly. ARB bush kits from Febi are less than £20 including nuts and retainer - I've used them on all three of ours as well as the droplinks when refurbing and it made a huge difference.

 

[spike]

Looks like Ben has a 2001 model A2 which will have the roll bar where the bushes run on integral plastic sleeves. The roll bar rusts and eventually bursts the sleeves. The 'official' fix is a new design roll bar with no sleeves and steel locating collars for the matching smaller dia bushes.
The cheap fix is to remove the remains of the plastic sleeves and use VW Polo bushes

Cheers Spike

 

[21iceman21]

Looks like Ben has a 2001 model A2 which will have the roll bar where the bushes run on integral plastic sleeves. The roll bar rusts and eventually bursts the sleeves. The 'official' fix is a new design roll bar with no sleeves and steel locating collars for the matching smaller dia bushes.
The cheap fix is to remove the remains of the plastic sleeves and use VW Polo bushes

Cheers Spike

Interesting, thanks for that Spike. Makes me a little concerned as the 'kit' Audi sold me last week. Perhaps worth a photo on this post to see the consensus.

 

[spike]

Some comparison pics of the old and new roll bars in this thread - https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-roll-bar-arb-diy-replacement.6341/post-49357

Cheers Spike

 

[21iceman21]

So I have some good news and bad news.

My local garage replaced the ARB and the knocking noise has completely gone - Happy Days.

However in doing so they didn't mark the placement of the subframe and no my steering is out Super annoying as my steering was bob on and I had new tyres fitted recently.... They've offered to attempt to resolve but I'm worried they will just bodge it even further..

Sadly, I think the only option to resolve this is to lean on my local Audi dealership to get a cost for them to refit the subframe-argh!!!!

Cheers,
Ben

 

[Proghound]

Sadly, I think the only option to resolve this is to lean on my local Audi dealership to get a cost for them to refit the subframe-argh!!!!

If it's the thing I'm thinking of, the subframe is only held on with 4 bolts. Find a tyre centre with a Hunter or John Bean or similar full 4-wheel alignment system. With these, they mount black and white triangle-pattern flags on the wheels, and use a laser-scanner mounted in the head of the bay to align all four wheels with the centreline of the car (available adjustments permitting). I took one of mine in to my local place once, and he identified that the camber of the front wheels was out because of a displaced subframe - too much one side, too little the other. He loosened the said four bolts and levered the whole thing sideways slightly until it was all back in line. It's steered absolutely perfectly ever since. You should get away with something around the £60 mark.

 

[spike]

For anyone thinking of lowering the subframe, alignment pins can be used. The mounting bolts are removed one at a time and replaced with the pins. They ensure the subframe goes back in the same position.
More info here - https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...t-a2s-at-front-odd-handling.44019/post-410692

Cheers Spike

 

[Dalibu]

Hello - I am faced with a decision to make re: ARB as my existing one is rusted and scraping metal and the garage recommend replacing it with an up-rated one. Should I:

1) replace with an Audi one
2) replace with H&R front only
or
3) replace with H&R front and rear

Bearing in mind I have uprated the suspension to Koni Special Active (front only) with the Eibach-Pro-kit springs E7910-140 all around.

Many thanks in advance for suggestions

 

[A2Steve]

Definately number 3.

Just fitting the front will make the handling worse.

 

[Dalibu]

Gone for 3) the H&R front and rear - thank you @A2Steve

 

[A2Steve]

Gone for 3) the H&R front and rear - thank you @A2Steve

You won't regret it. The handling really is transformed with these fitted. It has go-kart precision.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[Dalibu]

Well that's cleared all the suspension noises, and the ride feels controlled on the corners and roundabouts. Mind you I haven't driven many miles yet! The old ARB is a mess. I'll be taking it to the tip.