Replacing the driver side lock cylnder

Riba

Riba

Member
Ireland
Interestingly enough it seems this topic hasn't been covered in the forum yet (?).

So I got an A2 without the remote fob and since I got it I could lock/unlock it only using the passenger side door. Today had some extra time and decided to take a look what is going on in there. As I mentioned this problem in my introductory mail people suggested to check if the flexible shaft connecting the cylinder one the lock is in place. Well, it is, but when I turn the key it is not moving, so apparently the cylinder itself is broken.

I removed the door card, the inner aluminium cover and even though it is not easy to get to the mechanism without removing the door frame (which I'd rather avoid as it means removing the door altogether if I am not mistaken?) I think I can get to all the handle bolts in there. There is one under the plastic plug on the side of the door...not sure what that one does but it seems to be mostly for adjusting? There is a youtube video where the guy completely dismantled the door and it seems this bolt has something to do with the cylinder, but it can't be completely removed and the cylinder isn't moving at all.

There is another bolt that can be reached from the inside that I have also removed, but the lock is still firmly in place.

Is it even possible to do this without taking everything apart? If it is I may just forget about it...or I can reconsider if taking the door off + the frame is not that hard, however that means buying some extra tools. Thanks!
 
Firstly you need to recheck what you have posted as not all is true so more research is needed.

You have a non UK spec car by the sound of it that was never fitted with remote locking, reason i am saying this is you have a key lock in both front doors where the UK remote cars only have a key lock in the drivers door.

The key lock barrel is held in by a sliding "C" plate and nothing else. The door does not need stripping but the inner door trim needs to be removed.

Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Front door, central locking | Front door | Removing lock cylinder and door handle

A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Front door, central locking | Front door | Removing lock cylinder and door handle
workshop-manuals.com
 
Correct, I got no remote locking and have locks on both front doors. So the £1.000.000 question is - how do I remove the C plate? Inner trim is removed, but it is hard to see in there, a decent flashlight would probably help.

Wonder if there is an exploded view of the lock/handle mechanism....

Thanks!
 
Just remember as you pull the key lock out the flexible shaft will drop and needs to be correctly repositioned on reassembly.

Don't need a torch or anything else just follow the instructions to the letter and STOP when there is resistance to further turning the screw.
 
Followed the instructions, but I might have messed something up before as the C crew turns freel and will not lock the handle and will not lock the handle in outward position. :( I did manage to pull the cylinder out for about 1/2 an inch but it won't break free. I'll go back and fiddle with it a bit more. Looking at this it is possible I didn't have to remove the door card at all if the problem is only the cylinder itself.
 
audifan said:
Just remember as you pull the key lock out the flexible shaft will drop and needs to be correctly repositioned on reassembly.

Don't need a torch or anything else just follow the instructions to the letter and STOP when there is resistance to further turning the screw.
Click to expand...

Too late I'm afraid. :(
 
To stop when I feel resistance turning the screw. Earlier today I thought it has to be undone and I think it is not working anymore as it is supposed to. Serves me right when I grab the tools before double checking on the forum. Now that screw turns but it won't lock the handle in the outward position and the cylinder won't come completely out. 🦧
 
Can you push the lock in and apply a little force on the screw and tighten it? Hopefully it has not dropped out completely.

With the interior trim off you can see a bit of the area will definitely need to ensure the flexible shaft is correctly located and perhaps even see where the screw fits the "C" plate.

Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Front door, central locking | Front door | Door handle and door lock (front) - exploded view

A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Body | General body repairs, exterior | Front door, central locking | Front door | Door handle and door lock (front) - exploded view
workshop-manuals.com
 
Tried exactly as suggested but it seems it has separated from the C plate. The area is hard to reach but I have small hands so maybe I can feel something but I think the C plate is inside the housing. I guess at this point I should get a handle and lock from the marketplace to inspect it to figure out if anything can be done and in worst case scenario rip the old lock out by force without damaging the rest.
 
Hmmm...If I correctly figured out how the C plate mechanism is working, I believe the side bolt is pushing it in and I have probably stripped the threads. In that case the easier way might be to drill out the C bolt and then use something to push the C plate in by hand.
 
Looking at the first diagram. When you turn the screw anticlockwise the plate is pushed left to right. I suspect during manufacture the end if the thread is peened over and that is the resistance point to stop. So either the screw has stripped or the plate has stripped. You have the interior trim off? Try to relocate the barrel in position by wiggling the barrel and trying to maneuver it around the handle which may also need to be held in a certain position. Once the barrel is back in the "C" plate will need to move to the relative to the drawing to secure the barrel and handle. I would not drill or remove the screw. Perhaps a bit of pressure from a screwdriver on the "C" plate will re-engage the threads as the screw is slowly tightened.

Remember the manual is bias for LHD so the drawing s are for the front left door and you have to mirror it for RHD.
 
I found these useful photos on ebay which give a good glimpse of the setup. It seems that the plate is metal but the part that keeps the lock in place appears to be plastic? It may be broken now, as i pushed the metal plate too far in and now there is barely any resistance so I suspect something got bent or broken...maybe if I get the both to catch I could get it working, I will try tomorrow wiggling the lock while tightening the bolt until it hopefully catches that nut. I may need a new assembly anyway as it could be that the sprocket that turns the shaft is broken and not the cylinder end itself.
Need to sleep it over, it is frustrating when something that was supposed to be simple and straightforward turns into a nightmare thanks to my own recklesness.

s-l1600-1.jpeg
s-l1600.jpeg
 
Today's update...
I decided to remove the passenger side lock following the proper procedure to get a better idea about its workings. I managed to remove it and now looking at it it is obvious that I have managed to release the driver side lock as otherwise it wouldn't move at all. So the C plate is not holding the lock cylinder in place as I can pull it out s bit but then it snags on something as shown in the photo. I am starting to suspect that whatever broke to prevent the cylinder from working might be also stopping it to get pulled completely out. Seems I'll have to access it from the inside.

DSC_1103.JPG
 
The obvious thing is the handle is not held open. Suspect there is a mechanical link that is blocking the lock from being removed.
 
Thought so too, but after inspecting the other lock the position of the handle is irrelevant, there is a clip that holds the handle mechanism open so you can hook the handle back when reassembling, but it has no effect on the cylinder itself. :-/
The handle is not sticking out as the clip broke off, found it on the bottom of the door and it seems I'd be able to put it back in.
In the mean time I found and ordered handle assembly from ebay, and one fo these days I'll try to disassemble the cog&shaft assembly from the back.
I'll have to remove the window frame, but it seems it does not really require removal of the door, just 4 T45 bolts.
 
Personally would spend a day with a good light and try to see what is out of place. Then try to reconnect unless something is found broken.

When the replacement parts arrive it will be clear how the screw / c plate works and may even give an idea to repair the original while still fitted.
 
Exactly my plan, will take a good look before moving on and use the ebay piece to get a better understanding how everything fits together before deciding to go medieval on the lock. So far it seems that something has broken off on the bottom of the cylinder which made it not to engage the shaft and prevents it come out...but one step at a time. Thanks for your help and emotional support. :)
 
Used this rare opportunity of sunny weather in Ireland to remove the door frame. With the T45 bit it was quite uneventful, removed 4 bolts, undid the rubber on the door side and the frame is out.

First problem was that one fo the bolts that keeps the back cover in place is quite inaccessible while the assembly is in place, and it can't be removed until the lock cylinder is removed. Catch 22. Luckily I managed (barely) to get to it using flexible shaft. Luckily it was not too tight as I had to attack it at an angle and I managed to get it out:

P_20230602_172919.jpg


And very good that I did, because this is what I found:

P_20230602_183644.jpg


As I suspected, something was preventing the cylinder to come out and true enough, that piece of metal behind the cog is sticking out and is catching on the housing, preventing the cylinder to be removed. It also explains what the cylinder is not working (turning the key does not turn the cog).
Out of the options for today, tomorrow I'll try to find a curved jaw adjustable pliers to try and push that metal bit in enough to allow the cylinder to come out. Fingers crossed!
 
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