Retrofitting the centre console tray (under handbrake)

Jmywil

Member
What’s the technique to fit this over the handbrake with minimal removal of surrounding trim?

Was out yesterday making sure I could remove the handbrake grip (yep) and rear cover (yep) , and the half moon shaped section with the cigarette lighter socket (yep). All good.

Not so good is realising because of the longer dimensions of the tray I’m putting in compared to the much smaller half moon section I am removing, i can’t get the angle right to get it over the handbrake. It looks as though I either have to start removing the gear stick and it’s surroundings, or somehow get the handbrake handle to extend upwards pointing nearer 90 degrees towards the roof.

I am not intending to remove the lower console, will drill holes or tape the new tray.

Couple of pics attached to illustrate the issue (i didn’t manage to take pics when I had the handbrake grip and covers off in case anyone thinks I’m trying put it on like this....).

Thanks
3F7C8B32-F438-40E9-86B8-329FF6615089.jpeg
A7ADAF3C-9CEC-4BCA-9775-1BFBE81AD069.jpeg
 
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I don't remember having any trouble doing this at all, but it was a while ago. Maybe you can slacken off the handbrake cable so that the level can be closer to vertical ?
 
It seems you have a very tight handbrake if its in its tightest position in the second photo. There is normally enough travel in the handbrake to be able to just pull the handbrake tray over the top of the bare lever when the handbrake is fully up.
 
Yep, just been serviced and tight as a drum, no way I can get it anywhere close to an angle allowing it to slip on.
So next question, how do I release the cable from the handbrake without undoing all the good work of my local indie in getting the the handbrake working?
 
The adjuster nut is accessible when you remove the ashtray at the back of the centre console. Note how many flats you slacken it off by, adjust it back up the same number after fitting the handbrake tray.
 
Take the leather front part off the handbrake then the plastic trim comes off. Secure the tray in place and refit the plastic trim then the leather part. Do not have to do anything with the hand brake cable adjuster.
I know you say you have already removed these items but that is how it fits.
 
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Take the leather front part off the handbrake then the plastic trim comes off. Secure the tray in place and refit the plastic trim then the leather part. Do not have to do anything with the hand brake cable adjuster.
Did all that, mate. “Secure the tray in place” is not possible for the reasons explained in the thread.
 
Assuming there is nothing else on the transmission tunnel. You have 2 choices, either try and make the location slots for the tray to fit into, or break them off the underside and double sided take it in place. I can't see anything that could be wrong unless the rear of the tray has not sat down fully. Try sliding the tray forwards and back until it feels right. Can you see what is physically stopping it. Could be the 12v socket wiring out of place as that is the only other thing on the tray. Did you read the guide above?
 
Guide can be found here..




Even has pictures.
Cheers, mate, genuinely helpful, picture 12 is the point where it goes wrong as with my handbrake movement (or lack of) it doesn’t allow sufficient angle to place the new tray as I can’t angle it down enough no matter what gear the car is in. I tried this with all the parts off yesterday. Looks like I’ll have to slacken the handbrake from the adjuster.
 
How tight is your handbrake? Audi says hard to rotate by hand jacked up rear wheels when hand brake applied 4 clicks. Easy enough to slacken, just count the turns so you can return it afterwards. Adjuster is under the rear ashtray IF you don't already know.
 
Success, just went out to the car again. It’s really tight, and I can see how that extra click or two of the handbrake makes a difference, but by putting it into 1st and tilting the tray on its side and using a bit of force I got it located on the button and then twisted back and it was on - and now off again while I figure to drill holes or remove the tabs and use sticky tape. Thank you all for the help.
 
I’ve got mine to do at some point, probably a weekend job though. I’m avidly watching to see the trials and tribulations and the advice before I start. I’ll hopefully pick up some tips or best practices, I’ve dowloaded the guide so we’ll see how difficult mine is to fit.
 
If you are going to drill holes put strips of masking tape roughly where you think the lugs will go. Then apply some black marker or ink to the lugs and push down into place. Remove again and with a bit of luck the marker will have transferred onto the masking tape providing marks to cut the slots.
 
When I’ve fitted these before in car single DIN car (without the correct holes) I have removed the tabs on the bottom and secured it with double sided number plate foam tape.

To conform to OEM it is better to get the Dremel out to cut the holes though. Has anyone got theirs currently removed to make up a template.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
If you are going to drill holes put strips of masking tape roughly where you think the lugs will go. Then apply some black marker or ink to the lugs and push down into place. Remove again and with a bit of luck the marker will have transferred onto the masking tape providing marks to cut the slots.

Perfect, my pea sized brain hadn’t thought of this as an option. I’d go for this option for sure.

Good luck with this handy retrofit.

Kind regards,


Tom
 
The marker method really does work well. But I can understand if you want a template, just make sure everything lines up before the surgery
 
If you go down the non-surgery method and remove tabs - I used 3m dual lock instead of the number plate stickers, works well too.

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