Stef's Snag List Ultimate?

Stef83

Member
This list keeps getting longer all the time. ๐Ÿซฃ

So this thread is going to be a long running lists of issues to keep track of with all my ๐–ปฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—Œฬถ Vehicles, for me to either resolve, bodge or never get around to.
maybe some of these less serious issues might make you chortle. ๐Ÿ˜„


A2 1.4 TDI AMF engine (Nicer car? / luxury aircon)
Status: MOT'd until 27 July 25
Last MOT advisories:

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
  • Nearside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
  • Front Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases Downpipe (6.1.2 (a))
  • Nearside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
  • Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Oil service 20-07-23 @113k (don't know about filter)
Cambelt done 06-11 @71k (not sure about water pump)
Fuel filter 12-04-25 @117k
Current millageish 117k

Immediate issues
โ€ข
Broken key transponder & RCL board

โ€ข ๐–ฃฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—…ฬถ ๐—…ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—„ฬถ ๐–ฟฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—†ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—…ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—„ฬถ๐—Œฬถ l๐—‚ฬถ๐—„ฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐–บฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—†ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐–ฟฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–ปฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐—ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ (Page 1)
โ€ข ๐–ฅฬถ๐—Žฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—…ฬถ ๐–ฟฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—…ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–ฝฬถ ยฃ๐Ÿฃฬถ๐Ÿงฬถ (Page 1)
โ€ข ๐–ฒฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—†ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—‰ฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐–ปฬถ ๐–ปฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‘ฬถ s๐—ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐–ผฬถ๐—„ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—Žฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ˆฬถ ๐—…ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ ๐—€ฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‡ฬถ ๐—‹ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ ๐—€ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐–ฎฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–ฝฬถ ๐—‡ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—Œฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ยฃฬถ๐Ÿจฬถ๐Ÿชฬถ (Page 1)
โ€ข ๐–ฑฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐–ฝฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถs ๐–ฝฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—…ฬถ๐—…ฬถ ๐—‡ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—…ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐–ผฬถ๐—„ฬถ, ๐–จฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‰ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—Œฬถ ๐–ฟฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—†ฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—Žฬถ๐—ฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐–ปฬถ๐—Žฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—‡ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐–พฬถ (Page 1)


Not so immediate Issues
โ€ข ๐–ฎฬถ๐—‰ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—‚ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—€ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐–ปฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐—‡ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—…ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—ฬถ๐–ผฬถ๐—ฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐–บฬถ๐—Œฬถ ๐–ปฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–ผฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—†ฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐–บฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐—ฬถ๐—ˆฬถ ๐—‰ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐—‹ฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‡ฬถ ๐—ƒฬถ๐—ˆฬถ๐–ปฬถ ๐—ˆฬถ๐—‹ฬถ ๐—Žฬถ๐—Œฬถ๐–พฬถ ๐–บฬถ ๐—ฬถ๐–พฬถ๐–ฝฬถ๐—€ฬถ๐–พฬถ (page 1)
โ€ข Most annoying fault, squeaky passengers seat
โ€ข Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover
โ€ข Turbo appears to have an oil leak
โ€ข Oil leak from rocker cover
โ€ข Part of dipstick snapped off in sump or oil tube can check level.
โ€ข Bodge weld job not by me for once on cat flexi
โ€ข Rear electric passenger windows will not open from rear only front child lock permanently on
โ€ข
Electric window swtiches have stickers on them
โ€ข Key is iffy doesnt always unlock first time needs new rubber cover.
โ€ข Drivers cup holder none functional - kept from popping out in place with a 5p
โ€ข Sometimes the electrics on the drivers door don't work, all electric windows and door locks and mirrors, but comes back on. Usually if car has been standing for a week or so. Poss moisture in electrics under floor well?
โ€ข Radio, doesnt turn on/off with ignition, doesnt illuminate at night (audi concert) can take about 3 - 5 presses to actually come on
โ€ข Head lining sagging in a few areas
โ€ข Low fuel beep! and other warning beep! is there a way to turn this off, or should I leave it on to scare passengers and myself?
โ€ข Roof doesnt open
โ€ข Broken alarm button on door pillar
โ€ข Underside plastic farings need new bolts, broken and loose
โ€ข Headlights need defrosting
โ€ข Bodywork, ding on passenger door about 100mm wide. Various small chips and scratches
โ€ข Alloys need refurbing
โ€ข Two rear tyres, not that bad.


Mods that would be good.
Bluetooth music and calls
Multi function steering wheel


Polo 6n2 1.4 TDI AMF engine (daily / small diy/tip run van)
Status: MOT'd until 19 Feb 26
Last MOT advisories: None
Oil Change and filter/fuel filter 01-02-25
Cambelt/ water pump 02-03-25
Current millageish 182k

Immediate issues:
โ€ข Passenger door will not open from either inside or outside but looks like it unlocks with CL (bowen(bastid cable?)

Not so immediate Issues
โ€ข Handbrake not handbraking
โ€ข Passenger wiper washer pipe split
โ€ข Iffy central locking doesnt always unlock first time with remote, key fob knackered chunk of plastic missing.
โ€ข Front passenger brake pads due soon.
โ€ข Gear box linkage slightly out - all gear select but sometimes reverse hard to get and second grinds 98% ok though, drivable
โ€ข Sort rust on rear arches
โ€ข Bodywork, make car all one colour instead of front wings and sills black and rest of car silver. Various small dings and scratches.



VW T5 swb kombi (bigger material hauler)
Sort later
Desperately needs cambelt change but still driving.



VW T4 lwb (4x4 camper project)
Sort later
Desperately needs engine.
 

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Looking forwards to some innovative repairs and great job fixing those rusty screws on the fuel thing. Brilliant thread๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘
 
Been busy this weekend got a couple crossed off.
Diesel leak webasto thermostat
Attempted fix on the leak, its not leaking so far. I drilled the damaged screws out with a drill press and used self tapping screws, put it back together ( I couldn't get stainless screws, so I put abit of grease over the heads to try and prevent rust)
It leaked when reassembled, so had to use some gasket sealer. It didn't specifically say that its for diesel but its holding. Sealer used is triple QX.
If this starts to degrade i will scrape it off and use one that is specifically for fuel like Hylomar Universal blue or gastite blue. I have also squeezed out some of the QX gasket sealer on abit of zinctec steel i had spare. Its submerged in a tray with some diesel, so will check in on it.
I'm also going to add a small inline fuel filter at the front of the car just in case because I think this is after fuel filter on the fuel line, ordered one for ยฃ5

To remove / put back, this its 1x screw holding a clamp together and 4x hoses connected via plastic connects. I marked them up with masking tape and remembered the start point and worked clock wise.
Also when this is taken off the whole tank will drain! so be prepared and dont have so much diesel in the tank. Get your bucket ready!

Found a page on the German A2 club with info about this valve, which is useful it can be translated with a right click.
https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/to...el-hinten-rechts-am-rad-ersatzteil-entfallen/
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test with diesel added
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Fuel filter change
Award for the most awkward fuel filter change goes to.. Changed the filter and the old one was a right state. Don't think this has been changed for close to 70k miles. Also found that to make the change easier it is best to remove the bracket completely first, and also the t-piece thermostat with the two short pipes attached - I swapped out the hose clamp for a jubilee clip on one of the T-piece pipes as It was rusty and I didn't want it to snap at a later date.

Putting filter back - fill with diesel first - push in T-piece thermostat from top with the two short hoses attached and fit R clip - put back in place under car without the bracket - Clip up 4x hoses these have plastic connectors on mine. and 1x jubilee clip now. Then fit bracket back.

Now after changing the fuel filter and also removing all the diesel from the tank to refit the webasto thermostat the fuel lines had lot of air in them.
I used a hand pump on the front fuel tandem pump return line to purge out the air. This took some time.. and to remove the final bit of air, what I did was disconnect the hand pump from the hose and let the fuel and air push out into a tray while cranking over, then when it started let it run for about 30 seconds, it let about 200ml of diesel out into the tray. This was needed as air was just looping around the system causing a hard start.
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gross
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There are four fuel lines one is hidden from view
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bit crap that the socket is so close to the brake line to refit bolt
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Tandem pump return line
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Starter Motor Replacement
Pretty easy job for once this one, tools 13mm socket for smaller nuts and bolts and 16mm for two longer bolts. (deep socket needs to fit over threaded stud sticking out)

From top of car remove metal clip then disconnect 2 wire connector,
Remove nut holding 2x larger wires. Remove stabilizer earthing bar thing, one nut one side one bolt onto gearbox mount
Remove long bolt that is holding starter into gearbox.

From underneath car remove nut holding earth strap wire. Then remove long bolt connecting to gearbox.
Remove starter from underneath.

Add a smear of oil to gear. I just used some 3 in 1 oil.
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forgot to take a picture of it fitted but you get the idea, its nice and shiny.
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The old starter possibly might have been ok. But I couldn't be bothered wiring it up to get the bendix to stick out and then grease it and fit it back only to find out that it sticks again.
Picture of flywheel ring gear with an endoscope, old starter has shaved some of the front of the teeth off, I think it will be ok , there will be shavings in the gearbox bell housing but nothing too major.
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Next job, door that wont lock
Video with instructions

Looking into the issue with the door that wont lock today its actually the rear driver side door

Although they are labelled as handed, I've swapped the door control module from one side to the other and the lock works on the passangers side rear so ruled out the module being at fault.

Took the lock mechanism out, tested the micro switches they work and also the motors work and got the mechanism to lock with 12v power from the 8 pin connector off the car. So not sure what's up with it. One of the microswitches directly under the door latch the one with two visible wires was very dirty, but works and breaks circuit.

So not sure what the deal is, either a wire from control module to lock, ill check continuity wire tomorrow. Or wire from the front to the back doors, ive been so convinced that it will be the module that i havent check any wires, maybe i should look at the wires in the opening door jam
I had a fault on the drivers polo where the wires there had snapped from opening and closing the door

Could the drivers door module cause the fault might need Timmus Toms advice
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Module moved to the rear passengers door, it locked with RCL
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Rear door drivers side not locking, headache fix
Tested both the lock / the door control module and wire connector in-between on the opposite passengers door, although they are handed the electric connections are the same. Lock and module worked on the passengers side. So started checking the wires back from the module and through the door.

When i found this rather crusty connector between door and pillar
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Managed to clean it up best I could with contact cleaner and que tips couldnt get it all out
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And hey presto it worked!!

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I have a bit of an issue with the plastic cover not going all the way back but it started going dark so will have to look at this tomorrow, might have to bother some purists and use some silicone
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I might have a look into the issue with the broken child lock on the front window switch causing the back windows not to open from the rear seats.
But, I'm going to have to park the car for a while and jump onto other projects. I'll be driving it intermittently and will be back on it in about a month or twos time to sort the broken dipstick and do an oil change sort bits for MOT.
 
Had a bit of a nightmare today, broke the transponder chip trying to move it over to a new key housing and the circuit board
Dont have a spare key so cant start the car lol.. great
 
Evening,

The SKC you have retrieved from reading the dash (instrument cluster) will be the same as the SKC in the ECU. As youโ€™ve seen, the SKC is a 4 digit code and VCDS requires a 5 digit code to login for key adaption etc, you achieve this by simply adding a 0 to the start of the 4 digit code.

Here are a couple of Ross Tech guides which youโ€™ll find useful:

Replacement Instrument Cluster and ECU

Key adaption

Happy to answer any further questions you may have, either here or via PM/DM.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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@Stef83
I've deleted your post, because, ehen you joined A2 Owners Club, you agreed to the Club's Rules and Guide Lines.
Your post does not comply with this extract.
"This includes discussions related to: the removal or deletion of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valves; the removal of the catalytic converter from exhaust systems (see here); or procedures, and software tools designed to access, modify, or disable security systems that were incorporated at the time of manufacture"

Please, only discuss these subjects via Direct Message.
Thanks for your understanding.
Mac.
 
Asking general questions on cluster swaps, key syncing etc, is fine, and, as you can see, knowledgeable members will offer to help.
But posting what is almost a "How To" use unofficial software to circumvent the OEM security system, in the public forum, is not.
Mac.
 
Rear door drivers side not locking, headache fix
Tested both the lock / the door control module and wire connector in-between on the opposite passengers door, although they are handed the electric connections are the same. Lock and module worked on the passengers side. So started checking the wires back from the module and through the door.

When i found this rather crusty connector between door and pillar
View attachment 137811
View attachment 137812
Managed to clean it up best I could with contact cleaner and que tips couldnt get it all out
View attachment 137816

View attachment 137813View attachment 137814
And hey presto it worked!!

View attachment 137817

I have a bit of an issue with the plastic cover not going all the way back but it started going dark so will have to look at this tomorrow, might have to bother some purists and use some silicone View attachment 137818

Wow, thatโ€™s quite a bit of corrosion! It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like some kind of mastic might have been used previously? That could be why it's not forming a proper watertight seal, which would explain all the green residue.

It might be worth removing the door and having a proper look it's actually a lot easier than I expected when I did it last year.
Personally, I wouldnโ€™t recommend using silicone. I would find out what caused this issue 1st
Good Luck!
 
Managed to get one key working with the immobiliser via VCDS-Lite but struggling with adding another key, every time I try set the value to 2 it drops to zero for some reason?.. will keep tinkering
 
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