Suddenly won't start after recent tandem pump change

These are the supply and return lines. Sorry it was raining and I didn’t take the sound proofing off.
Disconnect these from the metal pipes under the cover and stick the ends of the pipes in a container filled with diesel (or molyslip diesel purge if you’re doing a clean) the engine should circulate fuel into and out of this container and start on this if your fuel pump is ok.
If it does then your problem is in the fuel lines filter etc if it doesn’t then the finger points at the only thing you’ve changed, the fuel pump.
The hoses can be a bit sticky to get off, I resort to using mole grips to rotate them on the pipe and then they come off ok.
Depronman did a better write up on diesel purge than I’ve done here but the principle is that the engine will run off a container of fuel attached to those metal fuel pipes.
 

Attachments

  • FA6C058C-4761-4F84-8A39-352D36845414.jpeg
    FA6C058C-4761-4F84-8A39-352D36845414.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 69

@depronman write up of a diesel purge and filter change here.
Paul, than you for starting me on diesel purges. I’ve found it makes a difference even on relatively low mileage engines (70k)
 
You are going to laugh out loud at this next statement George
In my overstressed frustrated mind I was thinking, how on earth would that work putting the two rubber fuel pipes in a bucket of fue, now I understand.
I'll look for Paul's thread re purging.
Thanks mate.
 
Update.
Having read about purging the engine I decided to do this first.


What I did today was to fit my fuel primer bulb to the metal feed pipe near the cambelt side and also a long clear pipe to the fuel return metal pipe near the cambelt side, put the end of that pipe in a container and pumped away until there was a flow of fuel running into the container. so basicly pumping fuel through the Tandem Pump. While the return plastic pipe was still attached to the metal pipe, and also the feed pipe still attached to the primer pump I cranked the engine and within half a dozen turns she spluttered into life.

I Quickly swapped them back to the original pipes, the ones near the cambelt side, turned the engine over again and she started up no problem.

She's been ticking over now for at least 45 minutes with no hesitation and revs right up to 4000 rpm no problem.

All being well she will start again after switching off and leaving for a few hours.

There's still some tiny bubbles in the clear feed pipe I can see them rushing through when on tickover.
The thing is, it did this before when I first did the pump. It decided not to start just after I put the original black fuel feed pipe back on.
 
Sadly i looked into fuel pipes incase I broke mine doing the tandem pump. Here's what I found for the pipes to and from the chrome hard pipes across the tdi engine front.

Sae 30r9 Fuel pipes 15mm outer 7.5-8mm inner diameter

Think it was @froggy that was struggling with clips they need to be a few mm smaller than 15mm in order to clamp so I'm going to get a set to have in garage of different sizes
 
Absolutely and if Johny is getting air bubbles in the clear line it points to the possibility of an air leak. If the engine runs fine using a fuel container in the engine bay then it’s not the pump.
Hopefully it’s sorted though
 
Sorry, can't help, as I'm reading this out of interest.

Had the acoustic cover off my engine yesterday and noticed my clips have rusted away where the fuel pipe meets the metal pipe, (RHS, as shown on Catnips photo). Can jubilee clips be acceptable or do I need the 'proper' clips.

Sorry to hijack.

bra

index.php
 
The proper clips maintain tension, jubilee clip are fixed and if the pipe squeezes down it won’t have the same grip force and may for example allow air in. In my opinion the originals are best for the job. But then again jubilee clips are used in lots of applications.
 
Back
Top