TDi 75 AMF coolant leak from hoses tandem vacuum/fuel pump seals?

[froggy]

Thanks Phil, I will definitely wait.

 

[Catnip64]

I would expect the oil pressure warning to occur simply because the pressure dropped below the minimum with the ignition on while the engine was running. Effectively, it's done exactly what it's designed to do, so I would say it's nothing to worry about.
The smoke will probably be off the exhaust manifold and will be the cleaning fluids that you used, it only takes a few seconds for it to heat up and they will clear once it's running properly.
If it were mine I would continue to crank with suitable pauses to bleed the air from the injectors until it's running smoothly. It shouldn't take you much longer to get there.

 

[froggy]

I would expect the oil pressure warning to occur simply because the pressure dropped below the minimum with the ignition on while the engine was running. Effectively, it's done exactly what it's designed to do, so I would say it's nothing to worry about.
The smoke will probably be off the exhaust manifold and will be the cleaning fluids that you used, it only takes a few seconds for it to heat up and they will clear once it's running properly.
If it were mine I would continue to crank with suitable pauses to bleed the air from the injectors until it's running smoothly. It shouldn't take you much longer to get there.

That gives me some hope again thanks, I will try again tomorrow.

 

[froggy]

No joy today, fired up on the second 10 second crank, but as usual I can rev up to around 2000rpm twice and then it cuts out. After the second set of cranking no signs of life and the starter sounds like its packing up towards the end of the 10 seconds. I will try to tow it to a garage on Monday. Many thanks again to everyone who helped through this process. ??

 

[Little Dog]

Sorry it turned out this way. These problems were not there before the repairs? I mean absolutely no indication of them? Also the oil light problem has not come back? That is the issue I was most concerned about.

 

[froggy]

I’m happy the oil light is normal under the conditions, as per @Catnip64 post. No starting issues of any kind prior to the work. I’m going to have one last go at the return fuel hose. It’s in poor condition at the tandem joint, I will cut it back slightly, try to suck more fuel through and then clip it back for one last try. It’s the fear of causing damage that’s making me think it’s time for a professional to step in now. Maybe all it needs is a bit of easy start or something, but if it’s a quick fix then it should be cheap even to pay somebody.

Edit* Does anybody think low fuel would stop it running - it’s currently sitting between the 2 red lines?

 

[Little Dog]

I was thinking this is fuel starvation. At the risk of being accused of being a fuel hoarder I would get a Jerry full and put it in. Then try again, also check those broken wires.

Edit is your fuel filter good?

 

[audifan]

How long have you owned this car and what is the service history like?

 

[froggy]

How long have you owned this car and what is the service history like?

I’ve only owned the car for a month and it came with no service history, not even a manual. According to Audi the last service with them was at 83k. It is now on 142k and definitely not been looked after at all. I have just put 10 litres of fuel in, just debating wether to redo the fuel hose before one last try.

I turned the ignition on just to see the fuel level which is now between quarter and half full and no warning messages with OK symbol displayed.

 

[audifan]

REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER as you have no record of it being done. The problem sound now the fuel is not getting into the new tandem quickly enough either due to a badly contaminated fuel filter or too much water in the filter. Perform a service on the car to include oil and oil filter air filter and cabin filter. You have already changed the coolant so the only other fluid that needs to be replaced is the brake fluid. remember to flush the clutch at the same time as the brakes.

How low was the car on fuel before you just added more?

 

[froggy]

The car has been stood in a field for about 10 months prior to my purchase, so it probably has been that low on fuel since arriving in the field. It started on the button and I let it idle in the field until it reached temperature. After a short test drive the engine overheated due to the coolant pipe issue. It was driven approx. 19 miles by previous owner after its MOT to me and seemed fine when it arrived. The brake pads were replaced for its MOT so brake fluid is good. Would you say its not worth testing until the service is completed now the extra fuel is in?

The return blue hose is a little damaged on the end and could be slightly blocking the tandem return due to it being slightly misshapen, could this explain the issue?

If I cut and refit this, will fuel spill out the tandem return when I remove the hose?

As always many, many thanks!

 

[audifan]

As the servicing is unknown, I would do a service now before trying to start the engine again. Also take this opportunity to recharge the battery or replace it.
Although the brake pads have been changed I bet the fluid has NOT. The level may be good but what colour is the fluid you can see in the reservoir?
I would not be too concerned with the blue return hose as it has sealed. If the tandem could not return enough fuel down this pipe it would probably leak. If you remove any pipe from the tandem or in that area yes you will leak diesel so you would have to fully protect all the rubber hoses from being eaten by the spilt diesel.

As a bare minimum NOW I would replace the fuel filter and engine oil and oil filter. The air and cabin filters can be changed a bit later. Before driving the car too much would do the brake fluid flush and change. Reconnect the fuel temp sensor wiring so the ECU uses the correct fuelling map for the temperatures.

 

[Little Dog]

I doubt the problem is the return, the problem is most likely on the supply side. Fuel filter and tank top up are your next priorities. That said if there is very little fuel in the tank I would drain it and start again with fresh fuel and a new filter.

 

[froggy]

As the servicing is unknown, I would do a service now before trying to start the engine again. Also take this opportunity to recharge the battery or replace it.
Although the brake pads have been changed I bet the fluid has NOT. The level may be good but what colour is the fluid you can see in the reservoir?
I would not be too concerned with the blue return hose as it has sealed. If the tandem could not return enough fuel down this pipe it would probably leak. If you remove any pipe from the tandem or in that area yes you will leak diesel so you would have to fully protect all the rubber hoses from being eaten by the spilt diesel.

As a bare minimum NOW I would replace the fuel filter and engine oil and oil filter. The air and cabin filters can be changed a bit later. Before driving the car too much would do the brake fluid flush and change. Reconnect the fuel temp sensor wiring so the ECU uses the correct fuelling map for the temperatures.

Of course you are right, the brake fluid has probably been topped up at best. It’s very dark in colour. I just assumed it had to be done with a pad change and the level was good.

Yes as you and @philward just said the supply is the problem not the return so that saves me a job for now. I will ring my mechanic on Monday to see if he can fit me in for a service and to get it up and running. I will fully charge the battery over the weekend so it’s ready. Thanks again everyone, I just haven’t got any time left to work on this and really don’t want to attempt the tricky fuel filter at this time myself.

 

[froggy]

I doubt the problem is the return, the problem is most likely on the supply side. Fuel filter and tank top up are your next priorities. That said if there is very little fuel in the tank I would drain it and start again with fresh fuel and a new filter.

I should have thought about this - trying to start the car after all the work with a small amount of 10-12 month old fuel was a bad idea ? Apparently diesel can go bad after about 6 months (gummy?) and clog up the fuel injection system ?

 

[Deleted member 16918]

This is an unfortunate situation. I myself purchased a car that had been standing a while from a (semi)professional mechanic who had had a look but then sold it to me. However it was running with mot albeit with many faults, indeed the undertray fell off as I drove back.
When the Audi A2 came out Audi were asked about the limited access and how it would prevent people from doing their own servicing. Audi replied that they did not want amateur mechanics working on their cars. I have taken this advice to heart and do the minimum needed.
My car has never been off the road a whole day in nearly three years.
My recommendation if you have got the tandem pump on properly is to just crank the engine as the tandem pump is the only moving bit up to the injectors. The oil pressure light will probably come on but will go out once the engine has fired. This is my experience.
I have changed the fuel filter without even bothering to bleed the system or fill the filter prior to fitting and it coughed into life anyway. So, much cranking, to repeat my advice.
Petrol evaporates as it is a lighter fuel but diesel is much less prone to this and should easily last 6 months if not 6 years.

 

[froggy]

Wow what a bodge job has been done on my fuel filter. Date on filter 2010. Fingers crossed this is the source of the starting issues. @depronman drain screw is on the way thank goodness.

 

[Little Dog]

While you are waiting for the filter drain plug I would drop the oil. Leave it to drain for as long as you can. I would fit 10/40 semi synthetic. And keep it that way until it is running. Then get it warm and drop the oil again, it will have slopped around and picked up the muck in there.
Then fit another new filter and a synthetic 5 - 30 as when new or go with my choice of 5 - 40.

 

[froggy]

I’ve read some of the extensive threads on oil choices on here - it’s a minefield! Conflicting reports of 0 - 30 as the original choice, but for me I’m in agreement with you, surely an older engine would need a thicker oil (except honda petrol engines, always run them on the thinnest you can get) and I like the idea of running some cheap oil around the block then dropping and replacing it with the good stuff. I was set on using a - 40 oil but decided in the end I’m going with the Mannol 5 - 30, that has been shown to match the latest spec stuff on here this time and see how it goes. The way this car has been maintained though, I could probably throw some crisp n dry in there without making much difference……

Fingers crossed the drain screw arrives today and we can get her running again.

 

[Little Dog]

I’ve read some of the extensive threads on oil choices on here - it’s a minefield! Conflicting reports of 0 - 30 as the original choice, but for me I’m in agreement with you, surely an older engine would need a thicker oil (except honda petrol engines, always run them on the thinnest you can get) and I like the idea of running some cheap oil around the block then dropping and replacing it with the good stuff. I was set on using a - 40 oil but decided in the end I’m going with the Mannol 5 - 30, that has been shown to match the latest spec stuff on here this time and see how it goes. The way this car has been maintained though, I could probably throw some crisp n dry in there without making much difference……

Fingers crossed the drain screw arrives today and we can get her running again.

I run my car on 5 - 40 because I live a short distance from a motorway and it is my towing car. So most of the time it was driven flat out or at max load. At the moment I'm not working and the car only goes to the shops and it will soon be winter so I have 5-30 in to check it out. I can tell the difference in the way the engine runs, some how looser, and will be switching back to 5-40 at the next service.
5-40 is not outside specification. All of my cars have been motorway cars so for our ambient temperatures I go for the a low recomended start viscosity and the higher recommended viscosity for hot running. That would probably mean 0-40 but 5-40 is cheaper.