TDI 90, VCDS Errors, and Garage suggestions in South East England.

J

Joe_Audi

Member
Hello All!

Long time lurker, first time account holder and poster.

My Silver TDI 90 has been sitting for a while. I am now working to get it back on the road.

Having run VCDS Lite I get the following errors:

Chassis Type: 8Z - Audi A2
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,18,37,45,46,56,57,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 045-906-019-AMF.LBL
Controller: 045 906 019 F
Component: 1,4l R3 EDC G000SG 5418
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 03821
VCID: 18434B636B8B
WAUZZZ8Z64N017749 AUZ7Z0C2513527
1 Fault Found:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

I have already removed the Intake, opened it and cleaned out the oil from the inside.
Unfortunately the error persists after refitting and testing.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: None
Controller: 8Z0 907 379 D
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0007311
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 49E5DE2760A1
1 Fault Found:
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

From research I have heard this could either be the ABS unit or the Brake Pedal Switch.
To start with I have ordered a pattern Brake Pedal Switch and will try replacing it in the coming days.

I will try and fix these things myself, so all advice is gratefully received.
But in case I cannot: does anyone know of any specialist Audi A2 garages in South East England?

Many thanks,
Joe.
 
Hi Joe and welcome to the forum :)

Regarding a garage, there are a few members around that area so you might get some recommendations. Maybe a bit far from you, but one well-recommended garage, experienced in A2's because they are used by several members in the South, is B&F Autos Ltd in Hounslow - ask for Gary.

You're in the right place to get plenty of advice to tackle the fault codes - we like to help :)

For a start, the brake pedal switch is all done with one T25 screwdriver (my kind of job!). All the know-how is here, search and you'll find write-ups. That's often easiest done with Google by including "A2OC" in your search terms. Panel removal tips are also around.

Good luck and feel free to ask anything ? Oh and pictures are compulsory :D
 
What condition is your battery in? I'm seeing the magic phrase "the car has been sitting for a while", which rings a number of moderate alarm bells that I have inherited from many much more experienced members here in A2oc.

If it isn't quite tip-top, sometimes various ECUs get a bit fidgety when the voltage drops as you start it up, creating a bunch of spurious errors that need to be cleared to avoid error lights or limp modes etc. Obviously, some may be genuine problems but don't panic before you've eliminated the battery voltage as a possible contributory factor. Very best of luck!!
 
We also use Gary in Hounslow, you could get the train into Waterloo from there and get home leaving the car with him?
 
I would recommend Audi Worthing and VW Eastbourne but not Audi Eastbourne - they really struggled with my 1.2Tdi when they had the chance!

RAB
 
Thank you for your welcome and information Proghound.
Hounslow is doable.
Thanks for the suggestion Kleynie.

As for the Switch replacement, it's always nice for things to be possible with few tools.

Good suggestion Robin_Cox, I will have a go this weekend with a known-to-be fully charged up battery, and see how it goes.

I am looking at this as a right-of-passage as an A2 owner, wanting to try and deal with it myself first.
It should also help me start to sort out my brothers Blue TDI 75 that seems to be a real basket case (having almost every possible warning light flashing).

The roster as it stands (specs are generally very basic, cloth seats etc.) :
Silver TDI 90
Metallic Blue TDI 75 (with Sunroof)
Metallic Blue TDI 90 (This was bought already part-broken as a donor for the other cars. ABS pump, Intake Manifold, Bonnet and some other parts having already been removed)

I will take pictures at the weekend. :)

Thank you all.
 
Hi @Joe_Audi did you actually clear the VCDS errors, one by one? If not, please do so, then rescan. You may well find that some are historical, and, once cleared, don't return. As others are saying, it is vital that the battery is fully charged, and in good condition. Low battery can trigger false errors. Good luck either way.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
Hi @Joe_Audi did you actually clear the VCDS errors, one by one? If not, please do so, then rescan. You may well find that some are historical, and, once cleared, don't return. As others are saying, it is vital that the battery is fully charged, and in good condition. Low battery can trigger false errors. Good luck either way.
Mac.
Click to expand...
very good point!
 
Hi all.

I believe I did clear all the errors, and that they reappeared on a rerun of the VCDS error scan.
I will try again tomorrow with a fully charged battery, running through the VCDS diagnostic and clearing errors.
Let's see where that gets me.

Thank you.
 
Joe_Audi said:
Hi all.

I believe I did clear all the errors, and that they reappeared on a rerun of the VCDS error scan.
I will try again tomorrow with a fully charged battery, running through the VCDS diagnostic and clearing errors.
Let's see where that gets me.

Thank you.
Click to expand...
With VCDS Lite, you have to go into each controller, and clear the errors controller by controller, there's no "clear all" button. This applies to Lite only, whether it's licensed or not.
Mac.
 
Brake light switch cured my G201 very intermitent fault.

Not related but fit additional engine to chassis earth asap (goes for all A2's)
 
Ok so 19559 this could be a classic bug in the firmware that was only fixed 5 years after the car finished production :)

I would suggest getting in touch with @timmus who could flash your ECU if you can get it to him. This is an official Audi firmware that corrects a problem where alerts are being spuriously reported. If the car is starting ok and not shaking itself to bits then this could help. I'm likely one of the only people in the UK to have had this done and I spent a LONG time looking at this and spent more money than I'd like to admit trying to get to the bottom of it.
 
Last edited:
So I used a fully charged battery and ran through clearing the codes in each induvial module (thanks for the information).
The codes still reappeared. So it seems I cannot escape the problems that way. :/
I got most of the way through replacing the Brake Light Switch before I lost the daylight. So I'll finish that during the week.

That is interesting what you say Cheechy. I will get in touch with timmus and ask.

Thanks.
 
Hi,

The brake pedal switch was replaced and the new one was proved working by the VCDS-Lite's measuring block reading's. As the fault code persists I've turned my attention to the ABS pump. As I have read the other problem that 01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201) could be is the sensor inside the ABS unit.
The ABS unit on my car being the MK60.

I have acquired another ABS unit (through a minor family communication error). I know that one can only replace like with like, and that they need reprogramming. I will check through the forum to find compatibility information, as I don't know exactly what type this "new" unit is.

The intake flap fault also persists. I will look into buying a different unit to see if that fixes it.

Also here are some pictures.

Thanks.
 

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Unless i am mistaken you could simply fit the mechanical part only and swap over the electric part of the abs module to avoid the need for coding

It was a new, good, correctly fitted brake light switch?
 
Howey said:
Unless i am mistaken you could simply fit the mechanical part only and swap over the electric part of the abs module to avoid the need for coding

It was a new, good, correctly fitted brake light switch?
Click to expand...
@timmus had a similar case in last year's residency at my place, where the resolution was determined to be to marry the mechanicals and the electronics from two different ABS pumps. In that case, the problem was with the electronics so coding would have been required.
 
Hi,

The brake switch was a pattern part bought new. I ran the VCDS software and used the measuring block functionality (03 if I remember correctly).
It showed me the switch turning on and off when I engaged and disengaged the brake pedal. So I assume it is working.

That is interesting what you both say about the possibility of swapping out half of the ABS unit. I did not even know that was possible.

Am I correct in thinking the internal ABS unit sensor is located in the mechanical section?

Thanks.
 
Although the ABS unit could well be faulty. How old and what colour is the brake fluid? There is a chance the problem is down to old contaminated brake fluid. It should be changed every 2 years and the clutch flushed at the same time.

Always use genuine switches on the car pattern very much hit and miss.
 
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