TDI Rocker Cover retighten

CrispyEdd

Member
United-Kingdom
I was told this would happen by @audifan I think, anyway my fault for not checking it for so long. My new rocker cover complete with gasket was fitted. IT snow leaking again, funnily enough on the right rear corner.

My questions are:

can I just tighten following the sequence pattern to 10Nm and that should do it?
Or should I tighten just the corner?
Can the rocker be removed cleaned and refitted using extra sealant?
Give up sell everything and buy a 2005 clio 1.2 16v because they are everywhere and my sons never goes wrong despite it never being serviced!!

Who knows if the 'Audi Specialist' did the right sequence or used any extra sealant.

Thanks for any advice, totally gutted, hate oil leaks of anykind or level, cant rest until engine is dry again now!!
 
Do not just retorque the bolts. Remove the cover and check the surfaces carefully for scoring and flatness and state of the gasket. If OK then perform the fitment as per the manual, using the sealant only where mentioned.

Surfaces have to be spotless before you try to refit the gasket and cover.
 
I was told this would happen by @audifan I think, anyway my fault for not checking it for so long. My new rocker cover complete with gasket was fitted. IT snow leaking again, funnily enough on the right rear corner.

My questions are:

can I just tighten following the sequence pattern to 10Nm and that should do it?
Or should I tighten just the corner?
Can the rocker be removed cleaned and refitted using extra sealant?
Give up sell everything and buy a 2005 clio 1.2 16v because they are everywhere and my sons never goes wrong despite it never being serviced!!

Who knows if the 'Audi Specialist' did the right sequence or used any extra sealant.

Thanks for any advice, totally gutted, hate oil leaks of anykind or level, cant rest until engine is dry again now!!
Only thing I would add is to clean the surfaces with meth’s or isopropanol alcohol (ipa) just to aid adhesion of the sealant .
 
Also worth double checking the oil is not coming from the EGR valve, the oil filler cap seal or the cam cover breather / pipes.
 
Thanks guys, I think I will check they aren't wobbly loose. Just cant bring myself to go back to the garage as don't trust they did it properly now. Feels wrong but so hard to trust a garage!

@audifan good advice, the EGR isn't there in soul, only in body if you catch my drift depronman stole it - so that's okay. Ill check the oil filler cap and cam breather tomorrow lunch, I think I may have enough of a list and parts assimilated to justify travelling to WOM, they seem to be only garage to go to. Long drive from Bristol, but peace of mind is priceless.
 
Not detracting from WOM or any other garage for that matter, but we all have to learn and build our knowledge base through experience.

This is not a bad or overly technical job and many get satisfaction out of fixing something themselves. Others do not....
I would like to do it myself - indeed i tried but failed when the old one was leaking - as audi put that egr in the way of the two back bolts (on my atl at least) and I cant get a socket on it - well not a torque wrench anyway. I get so frustrated that I could do the job if it wasn't for one little bit, a theme that goes for so many A2 jobs it seems, nearly all around access issues.
 
Many suggest removing the EGR valve first to gain more access. Just have to take a step back at times and look for alternatives or further advice from here!
 
Route cause of the leak is fundamental here.
If you are sure it is the rocker cover then fairly easy job.
2-3hrs taking your time.
Steve did have a cover recently, or you will need a new one as they do bend!
 
The "ghost" EGR could still have oil in it from the turbo, it just no longer feeds engine vapour back into the inlet manifold.
 
While there the ASV could also have oil in it that eventually gets into the motor and causes failures.
 
Route cause of the leak is fundamental here.
If you are sure it is the rocker cover then fairly easy job.
2-3hrs taking your time.
Steve did have a cover recently, or you will need a new one as they do bend!
Think it is although need to check injector loom seal too, oil is round back above injector seal though. It isnt easy to remove the egr, by no means, the egr cooler feed pipe to the egr valve bolts are impossible to reach unless using a pit. I managed after two hours to get the bolts out only to find the solid pipe doesnt move, or have any play. Honestly it mind numbingly frustrating and really isnt easy unless your a midget with 4 foot spaghetti arms and focused in a state of constant zen .
 
While there the ASV could also have oil in it that eventually gets into the motor and causes failures.
Cheers yes good advice, ASV could indeed bildge oil, Ive removed inspected and approved that one, it okay on mine thank god..
 
Many suggest removing the EGR valve first to gain more access. Just have to take a step back at times and look for alternatives or further advice from here!
Many can suggest but only few can achieve :cool: , honestly its incredibly hard to removed the 6mm bolts from the feed pipe just to reach the egr bolts. I turn the bolts about an 8th of a turn for 20 minutes to get them out only to find the pipe didnt move. Must be different on a BHC or Non ATL?
 
Lets hope the tandem seal has not leaked. Is it oil or diesel?
Has crossed my mind, its due to leak after 150k. Its (LUK pump) I have adaptor to choose bosch should I wish. but probably stick with LUK if its done 150k. I tasted it and licked it sniffed it and seems like oil, my sense of smell of foul things has been distorted thanks to COVID but im pretty sure it soil, the dipstick has dropped 800ml since rocker fitted.
 
Sticks on the gasket.

Certainly worth a can or two of engine degreaser and completely cleaning the whole area. Then run the car at idle and check for fresh leaks, turn off and check following day for leaks. Drive the car and check for leaks, turn off and check the following day. You get the idea trying to find out if it is a pressure leak or a static leak.
 
Sticks on the gasket.

Certainly worth a can or two of engine degreaser and completely cleaning the whole area. Then run the car at idle and check for fresh leaks, turn off and check following day for leaks. Drive the car and check for leaks, turn off and check the following day. You get the idea trying to find out if it is a pressure leak or a static leak.
I think that's the plan for the weekend, thanks for morale support. The jobs list sometimes can get you down eh?! Ill be sure to cover the tower bearing if i jet (hoses) it off gently.
 
Back
Top