belaabodi69
New Member
I have an 1.4 tdi AMF engine from 2001 with hydraulic tensioner.
During a head gasket job I noticed that the block has an extra hole on the side where the idler should be when using a mechanical tensioner.
I got a plate for the mechanical tensioner so I installed it to see if the idler hole matches with the stud hole and it did.
I decided to give it a try and convert the hydraulic tensioner to a mechanical one.
Parts needed:
- 045 109 145 H, cover plate
- N 10444702, idler stud (torque: 15nm into cylinder block)
- N 10609201, idler holding nut (torque: 20nm)
- 045 109 243 F, mechanical tensioner
- 038 109 454 A, tensioner holding nut (torque: 20nm + 45°)
- N 90905502, stud for the tensioner (this is the same for both tensioners. torque: 15nm into the aluminum cylinder head)
- 038 109 119 P, timing belt
I purchased a timing belt kit with everything inside for a mechanical tensioner. Use new nuts and follow every torque recommendation, especially the tensioner nut and stud.
The tensioner stud is inside the aluminum head and it can easily damage the aluminum threads if the nut or stud torqued incorrectly. I am using 23nm for the tensioner holding nut without the extra 45°. It is not a recommendation or an advice and maybe this is wrong, the lack of room and proper tools this feels safer for me than 45°.
From here installing the timing belt is the same as the 1.4/1.9 tdi engines with mechanic tensioner, there are many howto's just google it.
When I did the conversation my engine was already disassembled. I don’t know if the water pump has to be removed or not, but the camshaft toothed belt pulley is definitely in the way.
Before installing anything check the hole for the idler stud and clean it with break cleaner + blow it with air. In my case it was not used for 21 years and it is made from iron so rust is a big enemy. Do not use if the threads are rusted away.
Do not use an aftermarket cover plate. The aftermarket plates are manufactured poorly, it will not fit. I got one and it is too thick in some places, simply useless.
Go for a used but original one. Many 1.9 TDI engines had them, I got mine for 10eur with shipping.
Cover plate bolts torque:
- hexagon bolt behind the engine 10nm (M6X16-S1-N)
- allen bolt on the timing side 20nm (M8X20)
There was an issue during the removal of the cover plate. The allen key is rounded in the allen bolt, I had to hammer on a 12mm socket to get it out.
I am not a mechanic. Do it at your own risk.
During a head gasket job I noticed that the block has an extra hole on the side where the idler should be when using a mechanical tensioner.
I got a plate for the mechanical tensioner so I installed it to see if the idler hole matches with the stud hole and it did.
I decided to give it a try and convert the hydraulic tensioner to a mechanical one.
Parts needed:
- 045 109 145 H, cover plate
- N 10444702, idler stud (torque: 15nm into cylinder block)
- N 10609201, idler holding nut (torque: 20nm)
- 045 109 243 F, mechanical tensioner
- 038 109 454 A, tensioner holding nut (torque: 20nm + 45°)
- N 90905502, stud for the tensioner (this is the same for both tensioners. torque: 15nm into the aluminum cylinder head)
- 038 109 119 P, timing belt
I purchased a timing belt kit with everything inside for a mechanical tensioner. Use new nuts and follow every torque recommendation, especially the tensioner nut and stud.
The tensioner stud is inside the aluminum head and it can easily damage the aluminum threads if the nut or stud torqued incorrectly. I am using 23nm for the tensioner holding nut without the extra 45°. It is not a recommendation or an advice and maybe this is wrong, the lack of room and proper tools this feels safer for me than 45°.
From here installing the timing belt is the same as the 1.4/1.9 tdi engines with mechanic tensioner, there are many howto's just google it.
When I did the conversation my engine was already disassembled. I don’t know if the water pump has to be removed or not, but the camshaft toothed belt pulley is definitely in the way.
Before installing anything check the hole for the idler stud and clean it with break cleaner + blow it with air. In my case it was not used for 21 years and it is made from iron so rust is a big enemy. Do not use if the threads are rusted away.
Do not use an aftermarket cover plate. The aftermarket plates are manufactured poorly, it will not fit. I got one and it is too thick in some places, simply useless.
Go for a used but original one. Many 1.9 TDI engines had them, I got mine for 10eur with shipping.
Cover plate bolts torque:
- hexagon bolt behind the engine 10nm (M6X16-S1-N)
- allen bolt on the timing side 20nm (M8X20)
There was an issue during the removal of the cover plate. The allen key is rounded in the allen bolt, I had to hammer on a 12mm socket to get it out.
I am not a mechanic. Do it at your own risk.
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