TLC for an abused FSI

B

bazmonaut

Member
Hi all - as per title.

Is there a guide? I can't find one. Am using the workshop manual but I don't think it's complete. As it doesn't mention the coolant pipes that attach to the back of the top manifold.

How far do you need to lower the engine? Is it just an inch or so?

I am looking at doing death pipe and thermostat housing too. Anything else?

Also, i am having troubing finding the location of this image - it's the part where you remove the 'crankcase heater' pipe. I suspect its on the passenger side of the engine bay, but can't see anything that looks like this.

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...I have removed all the bolts holding the top manifold on, and released it from the engine by a couple of mm. I notice a vaccuum pipe and switch to the left (driver side) side of the manifold, and a pipe attached around the back - I don't think either of these are mentioned in the manual I have.
 
bazmonaut said:
Hi all - as per title.

Is there a guide? I can't find one. Am using the workshop manual but I don't think it's complete. As it doesn't mention the coolant pipes that attach to the back of the top manifold.

How far do you need to lower the engine? Is it just an inch or so?

I am looking at doing death pipe and thermostat housing too. Anything else?

Also, i am having troubing finding the location of this image - it's the part where you remove the 'crankcase heater' pipe. I suspect its on the passenger side of the engine bay, but can't see anything that looks like this.

View attachment 71340
Click to expand...
Not much time now. The diagram you cannot place is a view from underneath looking up at the back of the engine. From memory the bracket with the triangular holes and bolts labelled 3 support the bottom of the intake manifold.

Andy
 
I don’t think you need to drop the engine at all from memory, but you do need to move it forward a bit. There are some things it is very easy to break:
1. The combined dipstick and oil filler tube where it passes into the sump. Either be really careful when moving engine or remove it first.
2. The exhaust flexi, ditto.
3. The plastic lock on the breather pipe clip where it attaches to the upper intake manifold. Lots of these are brittle due to the heat. There’s a post somewhere saying how to avoid breaking it, it is very similar to the one that attaches the oil dipstick tube at the top end, just behind the service flap. You have to squeeze the 2 sides in the right place to release the lock, then wiggle and pull gently, try the dipstick one first to practice maybe as that is easy to get to.

The 2 times I took my injectors out they pulled out with just finger wiggling, the puller I bought wasn’t needed.
Good luck,
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yay, got the upper manifold off. Removed dipstick the also the forward rubber exhaust mounting. Will do a proper write-up but below shows how far I had to move the engine down and forward. Rotated the manifold up and forward.

Ugh, look at that gunk. I hate EGR. No wonder the flaps are knackered (got setpoint error).

Next: remove the lower manifold and injectors... after taking the kids to the park.

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Injectors are out.

Some analysis:
  • They are already numbered so looks like they have been out before
  • Two of the brass fittings stayed on the manifold, the other two stayed on the injectors - not sure what to conclude from this (if anything)
  • The flaps catch and stick at the point shown in the pics - I have the set-point error at the moment but care not as I have a ProBoost ECU from A2Steve which will disable EGR and flapnonsense
  • The amount of EGR filth has me worried about burnt valves... I am going to do another leak-down test, if the head needs to come off now would be a good time to discover this
I have left a phone message with Mr Injector but not heard back. Wondering if they are stll trading in these troubled times. Can anyone recommend an alternative?

I snapped the locking lever-thingo off one of the injector plugs. Poop.

Reason for all this dis-assemblage is a misfire in number 3 cylinder. Also have random misfire so am also pulling the fuel pump.

I notice that I unplugged the fuel pressure sender unit: I have no error codes related to this but wondering if they are prone to fail, and if I should replace?

Any sage advice or observations?

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Happy days: James from Mr Injector confirmed that the filter basket on injector number 3 was broken and lodged in the injector. This is good news because this explains the misfire on cylinder number 3. Bad news is I need to by a new injector.

Death pipe + thermostat arrived from Crewe Audi so looks like I just need to new injector then ready to re-assemble.

B
 
At last it's stopped raining, so I can make some progress.

I've renamed this thread as it's turning into a buildlog. Admins can this be moved to a more appropriate place?

Top service from Crewe Audi, sent all the bits and made sure I had the plastic clip for the death pipe (cheers).

Also top marks for Mr Injector - prompt, friendly, and much more thorough than any of the other outfits I spoke to. I got a detailed report back, plus the three injectors that passed - all with new teflon, metal filters installed, new o-rings etc. Also sent back the Shamed Injector, in a bag all on it's own with a broken plastic filter, publicly shamed as "Failed". Parts of the filter lodged in the business end of the injector and could not be removed. B*stard thing.

Have pulled the old thermostat housing after removing a hydra's head of hoses. I have my doubts about some of them, but no obvious issues so they are going back on - I have spent enough money already and they are reltively easy to replace if they do go. The thermostat housing is dated 2012, the rest of the piece is dated 2013. They look in reasonable condition though the coolant looks rusty.

New plastic is all dated 2020. FRESH plastic.... mmmmm....

I have one of those fancy ProBoost ECUs so hopoefully the plastic will now last for a while.

One thing: can't seem to get the death pipe off the engine. Manual just says 'remove'. Any tips? I have removed it from the thermostat housing end.

Also pulled the high pressure fuel pump. Gonna make a socket to open it up and replace the o-rings as I have seen mentioned on another thread.

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I can hardly believe it, but it is all back together and runing great. No engine light. No flood of fluids.

I am getting a persistent warning about low oil level which I am certain is false, but caused me to stop and check several times during my test drive... just in case. I found and reconnected a plug onto the bottom of the engine that I am pretty sure that I never disconnected... yep I guess that's the oil level sensor then!

I put the 'no engine light' partly down to the new ProBoost ECU.
 
I am not yet feeling the love Steve :)

Sooo... took it for an MOT today. Large size MOT man pressed hard on the brake and... pop. Looks like the spring pipe clip for one of the coolant hoses has been rubbing on the braided steel part of the brake line. Glad that he popped it and it didn't go in an emergency. :eek:

Anyone seen this before? Bonkers.

Also needed two 'drop links' - the thin rods that connect to the roll bar, which look like they are a few quid and reasonably easy to fit. One tyre was right on the limit and the wheel are trashed anyway so may be seeking replacement rims with tyres in the near future...

While I would have preferred to have driven away with an MOT, it could have been worse.

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