Today I.....

... fitted Buzz with an A1 gear knob. I like OEM though it had a sharp piece of trim that was annoying me, had similar on our FSI. I also treated Woody (my daily) to a DIS bargain from ebay. For those eagle eyed members, the current avg mpg is 25ish(car hasn't moved since install) hence the low range shown.
 
How difficult was the dis install as I’ve got this in my list of possible upgrades, resentfully purchased a full dis binnacle & stalks.

Thanks
Keith.
 
Trip out today, @timmus heaven!



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How difficult was the dis install as I’ve got this in my list of possible upgrades, resentfully purchased a full dis binnacle & stalks.

Thanks
Keith.
Fairly straight forward, 2 or 3 wires to the radio, 3 to the DIS stalk back to the grey connection on the DIS instrument cluster, earth. Otherwise, VCDS recoding /programming keys to cluster. Good info here, pdf liznik under electricity(Google translate is fantastic)...
 
So today I managed to complete the rebuild of project Egg , following the engine bay wiring loom fire , and was dead please to get to the stage where i was bolting the undertray Up ...

Casting my mind back to the MOT , last Nov , it’s have nil comments , but 2017 had 1 “ minor corrosion “ to lower wish bones ...

A quick poke with my version of the MOT testers corrosion Assessment tool ... AKA the massive hammer revealed this ...

So folks , lower wish bones don’t get better ....

The last photo is of the rust from one side ....
 

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Took off the leaking LUK diesel pump, cleaned up the area underneath, found that the leak was mostly at the rear corner, directly over the coolant return pipe coming out of the engine block which had the consistency of chewing gum where the jubilee clip was. Although there is a small silicone gasket on the face of the Luk pump, there isn't a formal metal gasket like the one I've just installed for the Bosch - is this normal?

Took the coolant return pipe off, cut off the last 2 inches and refitted (there was quite a lot of slack) with tubing in good condition on the spur - will probably get new pipework in in due course. Decided to replace the thermostat at the same time as the boost pipe was off and I'd already lost some coolant .. upper housing bolt cracked off o.k, but the lower one was heavily corroded and immovable, simply can't get the 10mm socket to sit on it tightly enough to free it, and the housing is in the way of most angles of approach for the socket. Can't get the allen key in. Put everything else back together, topped up coolant and turned the engine over with booster cables from the other A2 until it started (about 1 minute 20 seconds of cranking). Ran it for a few minutes, drove it round the block .. this doesn't mean it's fixed but it's at least as good as it was before the replacement, just need to see if I've fixed the leak now.

Any suggestions for the stat replacement? (obviously penetrating fluid, but getting the 10mm socket to grip with no clearance to get a hand in behind to increase the pressure?).
 
Fairly straight forward, 2 or 3 wires to the radio, 3 to the DIS stalk back to the grey connection on the DIS instrument cluster, earth. Otherwise, VCDS recoding /programming keys to cluster. Good info here, pdf liznik under electricity(Google translate is fantastic)...
Hi Damadgeruk,
That looks possible I think ?
Haven’t translated yet
But many thanks for the information & video links.
Keith.
 
Today I learned how much I missed Alison! Two months enduring a Vanilla Vauxhall Insignia; what did I learn? There's nothing like the A2 out there people... Stay safe and look after your important examples of Automotive History... These really are future classics... ? ? ?
 
Today I changed the shift tower bearing. The housing was a b****r to get out (yes, that is my blood).

4d7f71bc0a88f2217220c2f21f694941.jpg


I also pulled out the rod, which is rather corroded:

3b96db2d253b9cdcee81a5876881e8bd.jpg


a298d70743a5e12900220b8466c8809d.jpg


I’m guessing extensive water ingress has occurred at some point. The leaking washer from around the washing jet won’t help, but I also recall my mother telling me she drove the car through deep flood water a few years back.

It’s all back in situ now. The adjustment was a bit haphazard because the locking pin is broken and plastic catches have snapped off both of the bowdens. Still, it’s feeling a lot smoother (if a bit less precise because of the less than satisfactory adjustment). Next jobs are replacing the shift lever, the bowdens, the rid, sealing around the washer jet and change the gearbox oil.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Today I changed the shift tower bearing. The housing was a b****r to get out (yes, that is my blood).

4d7f71bc0a88f2217220c2f21f694941.jpg


I also pulled out the rod, which is rather corroded:

3b96db2d253b9cdcee81a5876881e8bd.jpg


a298d70743a5e12900220b8466c8809d.jpg


I’m guessing extensive water ingress has occurred at some point. The leaking washer from around the washing jet won’t help, but I also recall my mother telling me she drove the car through deep flood water a few years back.

It’s all back in situ now. The adjustment was a bit haphazard because the locking pin is broken and plastic catches have snapped off both of the bowdens. Still, it’s feeling a lot smoother (if a bit less precise because of the less than satisfactory adjustment). Next jobs are replacing the shift lever, the bowdens, the rid, sealing around the washer jet and change the gearbox oil.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi I have to do exactly the same job.If I may ask what was the procedure for taking
the shift tower out of the box?

Thanks
Martin
 
Today I changed the shift tower bearing. The housing was a b****r to get out (yes, that is my blood).

4d7f71bc0a88f2217220c2f21f694941.jpg


I also pulled out the rod, which is rather corroded:

3b96db2d253b9cdcee81a5876881e8bd.jpg


a298d70743a5e12900220b8466c8809d.jpg


I’m guessing extensive water ingress has occurred at some point. The leaking washer from around the washing jet won’t help, but I also recall my mother telling me she drove the car through deep flood water a few years back.

It’s all back in situ now. The adjustment was a bit haphazard because the locking pin is broken and plastic catches have snapped off both of the bowdens. Still, it’s feeling a lot smoother (if a bit less precise because of the less than satisfactory adjustment). Next jobs are replacing the shift lever, the bowdens, the rid, sealing around the washer jet and change the gearbox oil.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did my gearbox oil last week used one of these pumps from amazon
laser 4385 gearbox oil pump if it’s any help keeps it clean & enables precision filling.

Keith
 
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