Today I.....

Today I gave Doris a bath :)

52709
 
Tried unplugging the G65 sensor to see if this had any effect on Cosmo's steering pump / oil sensor / Fuse 38 issue.

Was wondering if any of our experts can help diagnose the problem visually (see attached) - or is this going to take the full version of VCDS? (nb - the other half is still on the car :) )....

Have replaced fuse 38 with an intact 10A fuse, but restarting the car still results in the yellow steering wheel / sensor warning messages and no change. It didn't burn out while the car was running though. Aircon also still runs normally despite the G65
IMG_0164.jpg
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Tried unplugging the G65 sensor to see if this had any effect on Cosmo's steering pump / oil sensor / Fuse 38 issue.

Was wondering if any of our experts can help diagnose the problem visually (see attached) - or is this going to take the full version of VCDS? (nb - the other half is still on the car :) )....

Have replaced fuse 38 with an intact 10A fuse, but restarting the car still results in the yellow steering wheel / sensor warning messages and no change. It didn't burn out while the car was running though. Aircon also still runs normally despite the G65
View attachment 52719.
It looks like the top has come off the sensor,
Is the other half equally corroded ?
you could clean off corrosion carefully & wash off with distilled water or electrical contact cleaner & try refitting to sensor but it doesn’t look good I’m afraid.
Keith.
 
>It looks like the top has come off the sensor,
>Is the other half equally corroded ?

worse .. it just disintegrated when I undid the loom connector and then gently helped it with a screwdriver to release the connector. A replacement was ordered yesterday so I'm glad that this has proven to be knackered!
 
Have replaced fuse 38 with an intact 10A fuse, but restarting the car still results in the yellow steering wheel / sensor warning messages and no change. It didn't burn out while the car was running though. Aircon also still runs normally despite the G65.
I'm surprised that the aircon is still operating, normally the system won't run if the G65 sensor doesn't indicate the correct pressure.
It would be interesting to see what VCDS reports the system pressure to be.
 
I'm surprised that the aircon is still operating, normally the system won't run if the G65 sensor doesn't indicate the correct pressure.
It would be interesting to see what VCDS reports the system pressure to be.

I'll have a look-see with the ODB reader. Just realised after reading your and the previous response that I put the replacement fuse 38 in the slot for 33 (I don't have heated windscreen nozzles... ) so I'm going to swap that over and see what happens now.
 
As it's stopped lashing down long enough to get under the car...

Replaced dogbone mount - three of the four connections were split nearly all the way through (A1 TDI replacement part is the same part and just change the mounting over). That wouldn't have lasted much longer.
52722

Tracked down weird knocking noise from underneath serpentine belt - this part that holds a plastic pipe had snapped in two and was vibrating away against the side of the sump. Out with the superglue and hot glue gun as temp fix until get a new part.
52723
 
.. got Power Steering back without steering or oil sensor error messages in Cosmo again. @lvsghost

As above, the G65 sensor in front of the radiator was clearly electrically compromised as can be seen by the way it just fell apart when I was trying to unplug it, so definitely worth checking even if your a/c works and the sensor looks otherwise intact. This is especially true if you live in an area (such as East Scotland by the Coast) where Cosmo has been since initial purchase 17 years ago. Once this had come off, replacing Fuse 38 resulted in a restart without the warning pings and functional steering straight off the driveway. Putting Fuse 38 in the slot for Fuse 33 as a negative control because I didn't have the diagram handy to begin with didn't work....

Thanks to everyone's helpful suggestions and posts on various threads, recent and not so recent regarding wiring, possible power steering fault causes etc - Mike Skipton, Kaz, Audifan, Timmus - too many to remember at short notice, so please accept my apology if I haven't named you.

Loads more to do - I think my replacement job on the diesel pump is still not great (new Bosch pump and gasket but useless mechanic!) as it still appears to be leaking, some new coolant pipes around the same area, new struts / ARB bushes etc, driver door to swap but the steering was the biggie.

Time for a cold one.. happy Saturday!
 
So today I ...

Managed to grab a few dry hours on the drive ...
Following the electrical engine bay fire , and then the epically rusty wish bone , the car has been put back together
Next step is A/C Re-gassing and tracking alinement, the track rod end was looking a bit sorry , so while your in for a penny , you may as well done the whole job

The wishbones was fairly easy , I was expecting a wrestling event , but by the use of pry bars , and some rubber grease , it was a simple job
 

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Hi I have to do exactly the same job.If I may ask what was the procedure for taking
the shift tower out of the box?

Thanks
Martin

Hi,

I'm not an expert so it's best you do some research, but this is how I did it:

- Disconnected the battery ground lead (negative)
- Removed the cross brace and the water collecting cup for access
- Released both Bowden catches and pulled the selector cables as clear as possible.
- Removed the circlip from the relay lever pivot and pulled the lever and sliding shoe off and out
- Removed the nut holding the shift lever weight on the shift rod. Removing the lever itself required a bit of force.
- Unclip the connection to the reverse switch
- Removed the nuts either side of the selector housing.
- The housing itself felt welded to the box. I used a small pry bar, gently but firmly levering the housing prominences against the rest of the box to pull it loose.
- To remove the shift rod (I wouldn't recommend doing it unless you need to...took me ages to get it back in) I gently pulled upwards whist rotating/wiggling the shaft.
- Covered the resulting opening into the box to prevent contamination

This diagram explains how it all fits together: https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a2/a2/2003-248/3/311-311090/#3

Like I said, these aren't instructions, just a description of how I did it.

Good luck :)
 
Modified Egr
 

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looks like I have started trend here :)
looks like you adopted a little more of an agricultural approach to the modifications that I did, but same end result
Utilising your previous post to guide the hacksaw I've gained a smother engine, thank you.
 
Today I started my new job :) then after work I fitted my new CD changer so I can play Spotify through my phone:)

Only took me 30 minutes to fit :)

 
Today I dropped Pimey with the lovely chaps at WOM for a service, a trip to the body shop to get a ding out of the door and for the equally delightful @timmus to fit some of the goodies I've been driving around in my boot! Can't wait to see the end results!
 
Today I started my new job :) then after work I fitted my new CD changer so I can play Spotify through my phone:)

Only took me 30 minutes to fit :)

Good work! Are you happy with how it sounds?
 
Where did you end up mounting the box? Initially put mine in the glove box, but as I use SD and USB it was far more practical to locate it in the dash cubby ( single din dash ) or to the underside of the ashtray for double din dash.
 
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