Today I.....

A question for you (might be a stupid question and I may be wiser after this), don’t winter tyres and Michelin cross climates do the same job? Do they not both work in snow/wet or am I missing something.

Over and above that do you then change again to summer tyres?

Apologies again if I’m being a bit thick.
I think that the answer to your question is 'not quite'. Michelin Crossclimates are so-called all season tyres which as I understand it means that they are in effect summer tyres but with some winter capability. Probably don't need to change to full summer but I've got them as well on some nice 16" wheels.
 

cheechy

A2OC Donor
I think that the answer to your question is 'not quite'. Michelin Crossclimates are so-called all season tyres which as I understand it means that they are in effect summer tyres but with some winter capability. Probably don't need to change to full summer but I've got them as well on some nice 16" wheels.
Braking and grip in colder weather much better than summer tyres - as I say they now seem to be the best compromise for a UK winter. UK winters not cold enough for full on winter tyres IMO.
 

Jeetesh

Member
Today I....... broke my own rule and ate in my car.

Social distancing and all.

First job when I get home is clean it even thought it’s clean. Can’t have that hash brown smell in the car, wouldn’t be right!
 

Pinkythelabrat

A2OC Donor
Today I finished installing my new (to me) brakes and repaired the wire splice on the pad wear indicator that my former garage undertook.

I had a new connector to splice in myself but they were all happy when giving me my car back four hours late that they had ‘fixed that wee brake issue you had’.

Cutting the wire and twisting the ends together and putting a single twist of pvc tape on is not a fix! The wire was black inside and corroded all the way up to the ABS sensor y-piece! Aargh! Idiots!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Au2ro

Member
I had an issue with the handbrake not holding this week and saw that there was no adjustment left behind the handbrake lever so prioritised the rear brakes this week.
So today I... done the rear brakes.
I got drums, shoes and springs separately. Cylinders looked OK, no leakage. But I did not realise I did not get the push rods or wedge adjusters with the kit so was not careful enough to keep an eye on the old parts while dismantling. During re-assembly on the first side I realised that I had lost the wedge adjuster and could not find anywhere local that could supply :mad:. So I carried on with the other side keeping an eye on the wedge adjuster as I dismantled it to make sure it was safe. I then went back to the other side and stepped back to look and think a little what I was going to do, only to find the lost wedge adjuster sitting on the gravel. Phew.:D
Next time I will buy a pre-assembled shoes kit that has all the parts (I did last time but not this time).
Anyway once assembled I adjusted the handbrake and it seemed to take a lot of thread on the adjuster before it bit a little at 4 clicks. At this adjustment I could only just hold it on a steep hill with the lever a long way up. So I now suspect a stretched cable or a bent bracket or something. :mad:
That will be one for the garage to look at as I don't have the facilities or the inclination to get under to do it myself.

The front brakes still need doing and I will have to get to that next week. Why do these things all come at once...?

The more that I think about keeping Tarkus much longer the more that I think I should have a second car and treat this one as a hobby.
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
I had an issue with the handbrake not holding this week and saw that there was no adjustment left behind the handbrake lever so prioritised the rear brakes this week.
So today I... done the rear brakes.
I got drums, shoes and springs separately. Cylinders looked OK, no leakage. But I did not realise I did not get the push rods or wedge adjusters with the kit so was not careful enough to keep an eye on the old parts while dismantling. During re-assembly on the first side I realised that I had lost the wedge adjuster and could not find anywhere local that could supply :mad:. So I carried on with the other side keeping an eye on the wedge adjuster as I dismantled it to make sure it was safe. I then went back to the other side and stepped back to look and think a little what I was going to do, only to find the lost wedge adjuster sitting on the gravel. Phew.:D
Next time I will buy a pre-assembled shoes kit that has all the parts (I did last time but not this time).
Anyway once assembled I adjusted the handbrake and it seemed to take a lot of thread on the adjuster before it bit a little at 4 clicks. At this adjustment I could only just hold it on a steep hill with the lever a long way up. So I now suspect a stretched cable or a bent bracket or something. :mad:
That will be one for the garage to look at as I don't have the facilities or the inclination to get under to do it myself.

The front brakes still need doing and I will have to get to that next week. Why do these things all come at once...?

The more that I think about keeping Tarkus much longer the more that I think I should have a second car and treat this one as a hobby.
This is the way I always do the reas brakes on any drum brake assy

FULLY back of the cable
manually adjust the shoes such that they are just binding on the drum, do this by manually adjusting the tappered wedge moving it downwards then refit the drum. If the drum as a lip remove this with a file or angle grinder. everytime you put the drum back on pump the FOOT BRAKE a few times to centralise the shoes. It may take several attempts until the shoes are just binding
repeat for the other side
now adjust the cable until on the first click the drums are binding, release the handbrake and the drums should be nearly free.
Run the car for a few miles to bed in the new shoes, it may be necessary to repeat the manual adjustment of the wedges.
Once I have done this my A2 holds on a steep hill on the 3rd click and wil lock the rear wheels at 20mph if I pul hard on the hand brake

My MOT tester is alyways impressed with the handbrake
The rear shoes wear very little so this tends to be a once every 2 or 3 years job

Best of luck
Paul
 

Au2ro

Member
This is the way I always do the reas brakes on any drum brake assy
Almost the way that I did it but I set it to 4 clicks instead of 1 and I did not have to manually adjust the wedges downwards as with the new shoes and drums were tight at the top of the wedges travel and the handbrake adjustment was as far as it could be slackened off while removing and fitting the shoes.
Thanks for the tip. I will try adjusting them again tomorrow but am still concerned that I have to adjust the handbrake adjustment so far before it would bite even at four clicks with new shoes and drums.
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
....refreshed the cloudy headlights on my newly acquired 200k TDI.


83DD6167-27CC-4491-9FD0-C141CE10A741.jpeg

Prior to work
1A6421D2-05DF-43CA-B8E2-14E64D02F4AE.jpeg

After being wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500 and 2500 wet and dry
96F536F6-5B94-4516-BA80-A15F946065C8.jpeg

and then after being machine polished with Meguirs ultimate compound. I’ve now given them a coat of clear laquer and the are baking in today’s glorious sun. Once hardened for a day or 2 I’ll wet sand them again with 2500 grit and a final machine polish.

Not perfect, but a damn sight better than they were.
 
Today met up with Ian big ..a fellow member from chobham ..he picked up a set of alloy wheels about 10 miles from his home for me a few weeks ago .. and said to me the next time he came down to (Bridport) West Bay to see his mum he would give me a shout and meet up well we did this at 5pm today glad I did took sally for the run out ..it was like a ghost town you could count the number of people on one hand ..and then tonight all unnecessary travel is out so glad to have had the run down to the sea ..
We kept our distance 10ft plus ..I had gloves on to be safe ...but big thanks Ian for the road train down .👍.they will go in the parts pile for another project ..
 

Vic

Member
....refreshed the cloudy headlights on my newly acquired 200k TDI.


View attachment 62509
Prior to work
View attachment 62510
After being wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500 and 2500 wet and dry
View attachment 62511
and then after being machine polished with Meguirs ultimate compound. I’ve now given them a coat of clear laquer and the are baking in today’s glorious sun. Once hardened for a day or 2 I’ll wet sand them again with 2500 grit and a final machine polish.

Not perfect, but a damn sight better than they were.
You should give laquer immediately after sanding, not after polishing. Because after polishing the surface will be too smooth and laquer will not stick as it should.
 

Howdy Ay 2

A2OC Donor
Today I replaced the replacement thermostat on my 1.4TDI.

Not too long ago I replaced the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor due to there being no movement on the temperature gauge and poor cabin temperatures. The cabin temperature did improve somewhat but the temperature guage still did not move.

The first replacement was a Meyle thermostat. Today, I fitted a Circoli thermostat.

My normal daily journey resulted the temperature guage reaching 90 degrees for the first time in months. 👍
 

gills

Member
Today I discovered my aircon doesn't do very much by way of cooling. Think it will need regassing as some stage.

On the plus side, I adjusted the rear seat base studs to get the backs fitting into place properly.
 
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