Today I.....

I did this but mine rub a touch, most notably just in front of the back wheels
The rear springs sit on a rubber seat that wears to a mangled mess even disappearing. The difference between new and none is in the order of 1" in ride height which I suspect accounts for the rubbing, suggest you inspect them. Not expensive under £20 (a pair??) and quite straightforward to replace.
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The part number is 8Z0511149A.

Andy
 
The rear springs sit on a rubber seat that wears to a mangled mess even disappearing. The difference between new and none is in the order of 1" in ride height which I suspect accounts for the rubbing, suggest you inspect them. Not expensive under £20 (a pair??) and quite straightforward to replace.
View attachment 73435

The part number is 8Z0511149A.

Andy
Many thanks Andrew
Yes , have replaced the foam rubber seats, and same result, still rubs a bit- Just in front of rear wheels on sill/wheel arch plastic about a couple of inches from bottom and it's both sides. Weirdly it manifests itself only when doing tight low speed turns across an incline. . The ride however is absolutely transformed.Totally Brilliant and do not want to change the set up.
My only other thought on this is that the cause maybe slight play in the rear axle rubber bushings thus 'pushing' the inboard wheels slightly forward when the centrifugal load pushes the car out of the turn, in effect pivoting slightly about the rubber bushings. This rubbing point mentioned has been experienced by other members , who went to 45 profile tyres and who eliminated it by sanding back the wheel arch/sill trim at that point.
It could also be soggy springs or tired dampers. But the above axle bushing theory is my (maybe incorrect) guess. All the aforementioned are being addressed however at some point as the car is undergoing some major 'love' at the moment as a thank you for 16 years of joyous ownership :)
What make of tyre are you using incidentally?
Regards
Andy
 
Fixed my drooping wiper. Drilled out rivets to get the bracket of the arm. Drilled out the brass bushed to 6mm. Filed the bushes flat as they were rounded, Drilled and tapped the bottom holes for 6mm. Found some nice stainless cap-head bolts in my bits pile that were right length in the shoulder. Reassembled with a spacer washer where the bushes has lost material. Decided to put a nyloc-nut on the bottom as well as the thread for extra security. Put it back on the car and its all looking very good, lots of clearance between those nuts and the screen (maybe ill buy some plastic caps one day). I cant refit the plastic case as the caps/bolts are proud, but I wanted a quick workable fix from stuff I had around and it should be easy to maintain too.
 
Today I .... got one real aaahhaaaa. A thread described how to adjust the gear shift cables. Then I suddenly understood how to use the 5mm pin trick... which most of you probably have known for 20 years.....
It feels good to be able to "do it right" next time .... Thank you Forum ?
 
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What make of tyre are you using incidentally?
Regards
Andy
Hi Andy (a popular name on here!)

I do not run 205/45/17, I ditched the 205/40/17 shortly after buying my A2 many years ago after family pressure about the hard ride. Dropped down to comfy 15" and run 195/55/17 with Dunlop Blue Response.

Andy
 
Funny you should mention that amble-gamble but mine was green when I brought my A2 last December, needless to say it was changed. And I have had no repercussions.
John
 
Nope green brake fluid is unfortunately a very clear sign of old and LONG OVERDUE brake fluid that is very old. Do not know how old but guess at least 6 years old.
 
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