Sylvester
Member
The stone getting caught behind the guard is very annoying indeed. You'd try spraying some brake cleaner all around, if they doesn't do the magic, changing all bits is a fancy idea.
Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
Today I wanted to get my car MOTed and when I started it and I applied the handbrake for a test I felt something is not right and I also lost the brakes. Rear left brake cylinder malfunctioned. And of course brake fluid was all over the place.
So, now I am getting both brake cylinders replaced and brake system filled with brake fluid.
A sad day, especially since I was really hyped for finally registering the car after 8 years of not using it and half a year of ''putting'' it back to roadworthy condition. Now it will have to wait for at least 3 weeks, because I will be away.
So, now I am getting both brake cylinders replaced and brake system filled with brake fluid.
A sad day, especially since I was really hyped for finally registering the car after 8 years of not using it and half a year of ''putting'' it back to roadworthy condition. Now it will have to wait for at least 3 weeks, because I will be away.
What is this used for?
simon martyn
Member
I think it looks a bit like an aerial type "thingy" Knowing Tom, 'twill be a rare and wondrous.
depronman
A2OC Donor
I bought a pair of brand new genuine Audi front callipers a couple of months ago due to a sticking calliper that I’ve been unable to prevent sticking. The difference is night and day. Well worth the £70 all in cost
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depronman
A2OC Donor
I bought a pair of brand new genuine Audi front callipers a couple of months ago due to a sticking calliper that I’ve been unable to prevent sticking. The difference is night and day. Well worth the £70 all in cost
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Erlingtheyounger
Member
It’s a luggage strap.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Right, bullet bitten. Parts purchased / on their way to me:
Set of new front & rear calipers fronts are OE reconditioned and cost £64.95, the rears are aftermarket / brand new and cost £57.50
Set of new front Brembo pads that have been kicking around the workshop after being spotted locally on FB marketplace for £10
Set of rear Girling pads £11.50
1L Bottle of DOT4 brake fluid £5.35
The discs on the car all look fine so I'll leave those on. I've also got some grease to use anywhere I think could use some additional (thinking particularly of the handbrake mechanism). This should cure all my sticky brake woes and will give me the chance to flush the clutch fluid circuit as well as the brakes (is there a guide to this? @Sarge's maintenance guide doesn't include this topic).
Can anyone think of anything else I should consider doing while I'm in there?
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
OK I have meths on the shelf so that's good - not heard of using it like that before mind!
I have a large syringe which I was going to use to bleed the system, along with a suitable length of clear pipe, without touching the brake pedal. Any thoughts on this approach would be welcome - I've not done it like this before but as I have everything already I thought I'd try it - then again I want to be sure I can do the job in one hit as I'll need the car back on the road!
Re: the order of bleeding - is it the standard "start from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way towards it" procedure from ye olde times?
depronman
A2OC Donor
You will need to start at the brake fluid reservoir and work from there to the wheel cylinders.
You can’t start at the wheels and work backwards
Paul
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audifan
A2OC Donor
First syringe out as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible. Fill the reservoir to the top with fresh fluid so it will only be old fluid from the pump down the lines.
As for the meths, I have not YET found the need to use them so can not vouch where and when along with how to ensure the meths is completely out the systems.
Yes from the furthest wheel BUT from the ABS system so rear right rear left front right front left and finally the clutch.
Good idea not to touch the brake pedal as it is easy to over run the normal travel and cause master cylinder issues.
By using the syringe you are sucking the fluid through so less chance of problems. Any air bubbles you see unless the reservoir is empty will be leaking past the nipple threads, but there will NOT be air in the system.
As for the clutch it is very easy. Be careful as the slave is all plastic so do not get aggressive with the bleed nipple and only retorque it to specification. Just fit your clear tube onto the nipple and slacken it. It may take more slackening than you expect just make sure it does not fall out. With the end of the clear tube in a container , something like a small yogourt pot press down the clutch pedal to push out fluid. Do not be alarmed if the pedal does not return, just put your foot under it and lift it back up. After about 4-6 pumps the fluid will be clear. Carefully tighten the nipple, remove the tube and dispose of all the used fluid responsibly. The clutch pedal should now operate correctly and return as you lift your foot off it.
As for the meths, I have not YET found the need to use them so can not vouch where and when along with how to ensure the meths is completely out the systems.
Yes from the furthest wheel BUT from the ABS system so rear right rear left front right front left and finally the clutch.
Good idea not to touch the brake pedal as it is easy to over run the normal travel and cause master cylinder issues.
By using the syringe you are sucking the fluid through so less chance of problems. Any air bubbles you see unless the reservoir is empty will be leaking past the nipple threads, but there will NOT be air in the system.
As for the clutch it is very easy. Be careful as the slave is all plastic so do not get aggressive with the bleed nipple and only retorque it to specification. Just fit your clear tube onto the nipple and slacken it. It may take more slackening than you expect just make sure it does not fall out. With the end of the clear tube in a container , something like a small yogourt pot press down the clutch pedal to push out fluid. Do not be alarmed if the pedal does not return, just put your foot under it and lift it back up. After about 4-6 pumps the fluid will be clear. Carefully tighten the nipple, remove the tube and dispose of all the used fluid responsibly. The clutch pedal should now operate correctly and return as you lift your foot off it.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Good man - fantastic info and in fact if the admins could make this a sticky or else insert it into Sarge’s servicing thread I think it would be a boon to others.
Using meths is a good idea due to the marked colour difference so it will be obvious once I’ve pulled the new brake fluid through from the master cylinder.
One further point - as the callipers are all new I intend to remove all bleed nipples and apply a few rounds of plumber’s PTFE tape: That will give the twin advantages of sealing against air leaks when bleeding using the syringe for more accurate visual cue that the job has been done correctly; AND guarding against corrosion and hence seizure during their working life.
Does anyone know what clear brake pipe I need - is it 6mm or 8mm?
audifan
A2OC Donor
As the calipers are new do not think you will gain anything now with the PTFE tape as the threads are all good and not corroded. Always apply a good penetrant before you try to loosen metal bleed nipples and let them soak. When the system is next flushed ( 2 years time ) you could then see if the PTFE tape is warranted.
You will end up with quite a large amount of air in all the lines so the syringe may not produce enough vacuum. Only replace one caliper at a time and try not to loose too much fluid. If the line goes dry you will need to do a VCDS ABS bleed to clear the air. You do not want to press the syringe as that will force air or fluid back into the line. I would recommend a hand held pump for the job.
Oh and to stop corrosion on the bleed nipples a farmer friend of mine cleans them afterwards and covers them in hot glue!
You will end up with quite a large amount of air in all the lines so the syringe may not produce enough vacuum. Only replace one caliper at a time and try not to loose too much fluid. If the line goes dry you will need to do a VCDS ABS bleed to clear the air. You do not want to press the syringe as that will force air or fluid back into the line. I would recommend a hand held pump for the job.
Oh and to stop corrosion on the bleed nipples a farmer friend of mine cleans them afterwards and covers them in hot glue!
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
I’ve just remembered I’ve actually got a Pela vacuum extractor in the garage so will use that - it’ll be like a syring on steroids! Yes will do one calliper at a time and top up with meths, then once all four are replaced I will flush through with fresh DOT4.
The plumbers tape is just to stop air ingress around the nipple thread primarily; a skim of grease on the thread would do the same job.
The plumbers tape is just to stop air ingress around the nipple thread primarily; a skim of grease on the thread would do the same job.
depronman
A2OC Donor
The idea of the meths is to flush the system
So you would open a bleed nipple and pump the brake peddle to drop the fluid in the reservoir to near empty
Then fill with meths
Repeat until near empty
Fill with meths
Then check if the open nipple is pushing out brake fluid or meths. If meths then close that bleed nipple open the next one and repeat until meths is coming out. Keep the reservoir full of meths. Repeat for the other two bleed nipples
Then bump through the remainder of the meths until near empty and fill with dot4
Keep pushing pumping the peddle until all meths is gone and dot4 is coming from the furthest nipple. Keep the reservoir full of dot4
Repeat for the other nipple working the longest run first to the shortest run last and always keep the reservoir at least half full of dot4
Personally I would then go back to the furthest nipple and bleed a little more to ensure all the meths is pushed out
Should have said do the clutch when the shortest break run is done
Cheers.
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So you would open a bleed nipple and pump the brake peddle to drop the fluid in the reservoir to near empty
Then fill with meths
Repeat until near empty
Fill with meths
Then check if the open nipple is pushing out brake fluid or meths. If meths then close that bleed nipple open the next one and repeat until meths is coming out. Keep the reservoir full of meths. Repeat for the other two bleed nipples
Then bump through the remainder of the meths until near empty and fill with dot4
Keep pushing pumping the peddle until all meths is gone and dot4 is coming from the furthest nipple. Keep the reservoir full of dot4
Repeat for the other nipple working the longest run first to the shortest run last and always keep the reservoir at least half full of dot4
Personally I would then go back to the furthest nipple and bleed a little more to ensure all the meths is pushed out
Should have said do the clutch when the shortest break run is done
Cheers.
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kp 115
A2OC Donor
Look at BCS they refurb to superb level.