Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
today i changed the noisy growly front bearing.
removal was easy enough with a big breaker bar but refitting was a bit of a pig; it would not go in straight. 5 attempts later (and some gentle tapping with a hammer) i have a fitted bearing and no more noise!
i did have to sacrifice the abs sensor as it was fused in place and would not budge so new one is on order to get rid of my disco dashboard lights!
for those non-mechanically minded members, im very much a novice with rudimentary tools at hand and it's very much achievable.
massive thank you to @datsundrew for the loan of the removal tool. massive brownie points for your generosity
cheers
drew
removal was easy enough with a big breaker bar but refitting was a bit of a pig; it would not go in straight. 5 attempts later (and some gentle tapping with a hammer) i have a fitted bearing and no more noise!
i did have to sacrifice the abs sensor as it was fused in place and would not budge so new one is on order to get rid of my disco dashboard lights!
for those non-mechanically minded members, im very much a novice with rudimentary tools at hand and it's very much achievable.
massive thank you to @datsundrew for the loan of the removal tool. massive brownie points for your generosity
cheers
drew
CrispyEdd
Member
Brilliant! Welded to original base plate?
CrispyEdd
Member
Nice one drew, just a bearing puller tool to remove and a hammer to pop back in! Make it sound easytoday i changed the noisy growly front bearing.
removal was easy enough with a big breaker bar but refitting was a bit of a pig; it would not go in straight. 5 attempts later (and some gentle tapping with a hammer) i have a fitted bearing and no more noise!
i did have to sacrifice the abs sensor as it was fused in place and would not budge so new one is on order to get rid of my disco dashboard lights!
for those non-mechanically minded members, im very much a novice with rudimentary tools at hand and it's very much achievable.
massive thank you to @datsundrew for the loan of the removal tool. massive brownie points for your generosity
cheers
drew
tuizner
A2OC Donor
yes. cut off the orginal base and welded to the new. two holes line up perfectly and you use the third from the original plate. The still-available VW ones are just about the same height shorter than than the addition of the original foot plate - so welding it on brings back up to the right height (+/- 2mm).
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
datsundrew
A2OC Donor
No problem! Glad you got it sortedtoday i changed the noisy growly front bearing.
removal was easy enough with a big breaker bar but refitting was a bit of a pig; it would not go in straight. 5 attempts later (and some gentle tapping with a hammer) i have a fitted bearing and no more noise!
i did have to sacrifice the abs sensor as it was fused in place and would not budge so new one is on order to get rid of my disco dashboard lights!
for those non-mechanically minded members, im very much a novice with rudimentary tools at hand and it's very much achievable.
massive thank you to @datsundrew for the loan of the removal tool. massive brownie points for your generosity
cheers
drew
Nice one! I’ve calculated that at my current rate of mileage, it will take my FSI another 20 years to get to 160k! How many death pipes is that..
simon martyn
Member
One magic stainless steel one..............
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Drove 150-odd miles from Slough to home via Godalming - scored 69.3mpg mostly with cruise control set to an indicated 70mph, which is exactly what I was achieving on very similar journeys driving economically during the summer.
Conclusion: the @depronman refurbished EGR is working well and was a worthwhile job installing it - thanks Paul!
Conclusion: the @depronman refurbished EGR is working well and was a worthwhile job installing it - thanks Paul!
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Indi
Member
Today I finished cleaning up the lower intake manifold for the FSI, flaps are moving more freely now.
Next is to finish cleaning the ports and the backs of the valves, cylinders 1 and 3 are done, 2 and 4 still to go.
Fiddly and messy but I figured I should probably do it while I’m in here.
Next is to finish cleaning the ports and the backs of the valves, cylinders 1 and 3 are done, 2 and 4 still to go.
Fiddly and messy but I figured I should probably do it while I’m in here.
depronman
A2OC Donor
You’re very welcome. Not the easiest part to remove and fit
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Today I fixed an issue after getting a set of tyres done at Kwik Fit: all wheel bolts over-torqued on both fronts, 4 out of 5 bolts over-torqued on both rears with 1 on each rear being not even finger tight 
All sorted now and I have some very smart refurbished lightweight 15's with 185/60/15 WinterConti TS870 all round.
All sorted now and I have some very smart refurbished lightweight 15's with 185/60/15 WinterConti TS870 all round.
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
I've decided that next time I get new tyres I will print in big letters on an A4 sheet what the bolt torques are and what the inflation pressures are.Today I fixed an issue after getting a set of tyres done at Kwik Fit: all wheel bolts over-torqued on both fronts, 4 out of 5 bolts over-torqued on both rears with 1 on each rear being not even finger tight
All sorted now and I have some very smart refurbished lightweight 15's with 185/60/15 WinterConti TS870 all round.
Twice I've has tyres wrongly inflated and almost disaster on the first bends.
When I had wheel alignment done recently I gave them a photo of the underside of an A2 and where to jack and not to jack.
froggy
Member
….finally traced my battery drain was driving me crazy but searched for some help on here, bought a cheap multimeter and found the 20A radio fuse was draining nearly 2A. I didn’t need to sit in the boot with the doors locked thank goodness. Just set multimeter to DC A, black lead in COM, red in 10A, disconnected negative lead, positive multimeter lead to the clamp, negative to the battery negative. Opened drivers door (which raised the draw to just over 2A) and pulled fuses until I saw a big drop. Having to scrap my CR-V soon so a bit fed up, but this was a small win and made my day!
was driving me crazy but searched for some help on here, bought a cheap multimeter and found the 20A radio fuse was draining nearly 2A. I didn’t need to sit in the boot with the doors locked thank goodness. Just set multimeter to DC A, black lead in COM, red in 10A, disconnected negative lead, positive multimeter lead to the clamp, negative to the battery negative. Opened drivers door (which raised the draw to just over 2A) and pulled fuses until I saw a big drop. Having to scrap my CR-V soon so a bit fed up, but this was a small win and made my day!
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Is there something tee'd off the radio supply, such as a Bluetooth adapter, that's drawing 2 amps? That quite a lot of current, so needs finding. Surely not the radio, or is it after market?….finally traced my battery drain
Mac.