Today I.....

For some reason those with the inner welds don't have right fitting for pipe
Thanks. NRF Condenser ordered and awaiting confirmation from a seller that their unit is genuine Denso and looks the same as in the image on their advert!
Fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
IMG_2544.jpeg

Drove up to mums to re fit the battery which has been on the conditioner since Saturday afternoon after it had mysteriously (cough cough- no mystery- she’d just not bothered to start it in weeks. Grrrrr!!!) gone flat.

Glad to say the Varta F21 seems to be back to full health!!! 🙏🏻

Apologies for a) the gratuitous photo b) the appalling state the 1.2 is in. Not only hadn’t she started it, she left it under the poo tree!!! 🤬
 
Today I picked up my red A2 after they replaced the broken fuel filter. It's actually running so much smoother, which makes me think that the filter was either blocked or full of water. So perhaps they did me a favour by breaking it. They even have it a full polish. This now shows how bad the lacquer peel is. Thanks to the two Andys for getting one working fuel filter from their two parts bins.
 
yesterday I...
replaced the terrible sounding driver's locking mechanism with an Audi A4 b7 unit purchased on eBay, I bought two for £40 with free postage.
20250410_183615.jpg20250410_183636.jpg
20250411_055855-COLLAGE.jpg

All that needs to be done is remove the metal fin, and the swap will be seamless. 🙂👍


NOTE
I would be inclined to swap the new electrical half onto the old Audi locking side. The Audi part is made from strong metal and plastic. Keep the old electric side it has microswithces in it that can be reused.
20250410_064143.jpg
Fuel button mod MKII?
 
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Had my renewal to sort out today. Been using Admiral because I had the Van on there too with multicover...

Renewal "offer" with 16yr NCB
Renewal prices are down on last year says MSE so keep that in mind with renewals. I think MoneySavingExpert says by 10%.
 
yesterday I...
replaced the terrible sounding driver's locking mechanism with an Audi A4 b7 unit purchased on eBay, I bought two for £40 with free postage.
View attachment 137538View attachment 137537
View attachment 137540
All that needs to be done is remove the metal fin, and the swap will be seamless. 🙂👍


NOTE
I would be inclined to swap the new electrical half onto the old Audi locking side. The Audi part is made from strong metal and plastic. Keep the old electric side it has microswithces in it that can be reused.
View attachment 137541
Fuel button mod MKII?

Pretty much all VAG cars are like this. You might already know, but anecdotally for others...

Having worked in a parts dept of a VW garage - that the part numbers are very 'german' (logical, not at all random). They tended to follow the format of [model code][cat1][cat2][cat3][variant] e.g.
6Q0407366M
6Q0 (VW Polo 4th Gen)
4 (Group: Front Axle)
07 (SubGroup 7)
366 (Part variation, somewhat random but will differ slightly for left/right etc)
M (revision)

Bolts always started with an N, and there were the 'value' parts that started with ZZZ or something (it was a long time ago). It meant that you could pretty quickly 'decode' a part number to know basically what it roughly was and for what car.

The above is a balljoint compatible with the A2, but the A2 is 8Z0, so you end up with 8Z0407366A, where the 'A' might mean it is the first variant of the part, but the 'M' on the polo means it is a supersession (improved part etc.)


I used to write a lot of guides "back in the day" in the Porsche forums. Due to this, when the central locking broke on the 996/986, the Porka part was around £250. I bought a Polo one for around £22 new and swapped a little bracket over (the Polo one had deadlocks/pins and the Porsche part did not). Was easily to 'figure out' it was compatible through the part number, which was handy.
 
Renewal prices are down on last year says MSE so keep that in mind with renewals. I think MoneySavingExpert says by 10%.

I was paying around £800 for van+car, and the renewal was around the £760 price. Insured the van now for £130 full comp, and the A2 will be around £160. I think I have a further £70+ in cashback on top of that
 
This afternoon after a mid afternoon finish I decided to clean all the edges and seals on the OSS system & run a long cable tie down the drain gutters. Not the easiest places to get into but when finished I then used the Liqui Moly Gummi-pflege on all the rubber seals. Once again the cotton buds came in handy to get to all the seals.

Quick question: For the car mat retention the back mats clip over the floor pips but the fronts look like there should be a larger/ bigger, stud/pip that should fit over the smaller ones or I'm I wrong?
Front & rear below.
 

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Quick question: For the car mat retention the back mats clip over the floor pips but the fronts look like there should be a larger/ bigger, stud/pip that should fit over the smaller ones or I'm I wrong?
Front & rear below.
Good Evening,

Check you have all the parts of the carpet securing system.


Andy

Edit: I hope the image is not blurred, if it is try opening the image in a new tab.
 
Pretty much all VAG cars are like this. You might already know, but anecdotally for others...

Having worked in a parts dept of a VW garage - that the part numbers are very 'german' (logical, not at all random). They tended to follow the format of [model code][cat1][cat2][cat3][variant] e.g.
6Q0407366M
6Q0 (VW Polo 4th Gen)
4 (Group: Front Axle)
07 (SubGroup 7)
366 (Part variation, somewhat random but will differ slightly for left/right etc)
M (revision)

Bolts always started with an N, and there were the 'value' parts that started with ZZZ or something (it was a long time ago). It meant that you could pretty quickly 'decode' a part number to know basically what it roughly was and for what car.

The above is a balljoint compatible with the A2, but the A2 is 8Z0, so you end up with 8Z0407366A, where the 'A' might mean it is the first variant of the part, but the 'M' on the polo means it is a supersession (improved part etc.)


I used to write a lot of guides "back in the day" in the Porsche forums. Due to this, when the central locking broke on the 996/986, the Porka part was around £250. I bought a Polo one for around £22 new and swapped a little bracket over (the Polo one had deadlocks/pins and the Porsche part did not). Was easily to 'figure out' it was compatible through the part number, which was handy.
Thanks for this. So what’s the trick - Google the middle part of the part number (after the 3 digit mode code), not including the last letter - and we might get lucky?

Cheers,

Stuart
 
Good Evening,

Check you have all the parts of the carpet securing system.


Andy

Edit: I hope the image is not blurred, if it is try opening the image in a new tab.
Thanks Andy, looks like I'm missing some bits.
 
Thanks for this. So what’s the trick - Google the middle part of the part number (after the 3 digit mode code), not including the last letter - and we might get lucky?

Cheers,

Stuart
more or less + looking at pictures. Some things are slightly different, like those fins rotifer had to cut away.
I have a pair of later locks from Skodas which were the same main part number, but the door handle mech is different.
Did not pay enough attention.


aaaan that's how I found out that way that Bentley Bentayga uses same locks as A2
 
What is involved after taking the door card off to get these disconnected and out? @rotifer II / Anyone?

The project has the “won’t desafe” error that cycles the door locks on ignition for the two passenger doors.
I see this is still unanswered.
MTL did a video many moons ago on how to get to the door lock,
and @the grim reeper made an album on how-to.
also, a manual.

Briefly:
1. door card off (there's a hole below where you can put a plastic lever and star undoing the clips),

2. disconnect everything from DCM, then undo the bracket holding it,

3. undo three torx bolts holding the DCM and slide it outwards as it sits on plastic gear of window regulator,

4. aluminium cover off (a lot of torx bolts and two phillips screws).
lock is visible, and you can disconnect the loom from it, which hangs on a rubber grommet.

4a. if it is a front door, you have to move the door frame to create space needed to take the lock out.
mark the door frame position with a marker on the inside of door skin, undo the door seal from top to allow for the movement,
and then undo two lower door frame huge screws, which I think are multispline M8.
if you like me think that "fun" and "pain" are synonyms, you can just to rotate the frame inwards a bit,
that would give enough space for lock to pass. if you do it the first time, I'd probably suggest taking the door frame out,
so that you do not get annoyed by fiddling in a confined space.
in case of rear doors there is enough space, no need to move the frame.

4b. you have to disconnect the door handle, or you can just disconnect the mechanism rod from the lock itself.
it has a round conical clip, unlatch it and the rod is free. it can get a bit traumatizing to connect this rod back
if you have opted to rotate door frame, but not impossible.

5. under the door seal just above and below the locking mechanism there are two M8 bolts holding the lock together.
undo those and door lock is free. squeeze it out of the door.

6. the door lock has a clamshell construction and its oyster looks like this.
I cannot recommend enough making a photo of the spring that moves the lock, as getting it back in place can be challenging. then you undo the torx holding it, disassemly the mech, and get access to the electronic part by undoing the little torx bolts around the edge which hold the clamshell together. this is should give you access to the PCB.

7. get your solder heated and relive the terminator 2 experience.

it is a job.
 
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