Today I.....

I used a normal car glass cleaner which I would normally use on the windows. The outside is obviously easy, the inside however I had fashion a cloth attached to a brush head and feed through gap where the bulb goes as i didn’t want to separate the glass from the unit (it looked sealed). Thereafter I took a hair drier to it to ensure any moisture evaporated before reassembly.

Jeetesh
Thanks for the detail mine have a similar misty
appearance to them , so I’ll be following your advice to improve their performance.
Thanks
Keith
 
Today I fixed the glove box.

Issues; light not working, pull handle operates right pin only and left pin end is broken.
Dilemma: buy a replacement/try to fix however my broken one is pristine (issues aside) and replacement may not match/potentially poorer condition.

Fix is my plan however the risk is not being able to fix or damaging it more.

Difficulty level in (); 1 = easy, 10 = very difficult

1. Remove associated panels (6), remove glovebox (2) disconnect light (3).
Surprised at how much plastic is welded and brute force required for panel removal.
2. Dismantle glove box by removing hinge pins (1), manoeuvre lid from soft close mechanism without breaking (4).
Light not working due to broken actuator (present), tested connections/bulb, all working, fuse is fine.
3. Split glove box lid (10) this felt like I was breaking it and my biggest concern. Knife/scrapers did the trick and happy I’ve not broken it. Definitely not for the feint hearted!
Again massive brute force required. Findings - 2mm diameter plastic pin holding gear broken, right hand pin missing about 7mm of length.
4. Clean parts, re-glue pin for gear and reassemble. Contact adhesive didn't work, surface area too small and comes loose again, needs a metal pin or metal bolt as depronman suggests. I opted for a strong metal pin (a drill bit is the strongest I could find, right size and tempered). It would also be visible on the inside of the lid so wanted something as invisible as possible. All you can see is a dot which has a bit of epoxy resin to hold in place. The innards don't need a bolt as the right prong holds the gear in place (6).
5. Left pin end fix - sand flat, fashion an extra 7mm (I used wood dowel), fix to the end (4). Again contact adhesive not as strong as expected and repeated use could break it. Since lid needs glueing back together, both this and the gear pin fix needed to be permanent and strong. I opted to drill the dowel, and the end of the sanded pin, glueing all together with the pin in the middle with epoxy resin (6).
Dowel I can paint and shape to the exact size and epoxy resin has sufficient strength together with the drill bit pin to add further strength.
6. Re-assemble mechanism (checking it all works and greasing) and glue lid back together (4).
7. Re-assemble glove box and check fitment/operation of all parts (4).
8. Glue light actuator in place with epoxy resin (4).
9. Re-fit all parts back into car (5).

On refitting I managed to break the actuator again by marginally leaning on the lid when screwing a torx screw back in ?, I took it all out and re-glued it however this time I removed the rubber gromot the actuator rests on when open, there is no chance this will happen again as there is now clearance. The soft close mechanism stop is strong enough to not need the actuator to rest on anything.
All parts refitted and whilst I started it yesterday the time taken was mostly for adhesive/resin to set. The original pin holding the gear and the light actuator is a design flaw in my opinion however feel my efforts I believe will last the test of time. Really really happy owing to it visually looking fantastic (in my opinion)?????.

Many thanks to Sarge, depronman, ajsellors for their ‘how to’ instructions, without which I wouldn't have attempted the fix. Pics below.
 

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You could have had one of my glove box light repair pieces for the light for £3.50
Makes the light fix a 5 min job

I totally agree that the gear pin is a design flaw. I used a countersink 2mm dia screw as a new pin so the screw flush on the inside
Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Today I filled up at Tesco only to discover that I'd left my 10p/litre voucher at home and picked up the 95p off a pomegranate one by mistake. Doh!

There was a really deep frost this morning, I struggled to change gear the first three miles... Brrrr.
 
Today I filled up at Tesco only to discover that I'd left my 10p/litre voucher at home and picked up the 95p off a pomegranate one by mistake. Doh!

There was a really deep frost this morning, I struggled to change gear the first three miles... Brrrr.
Doh! ?
 
Today I filled up at Tesco only to discover that I'd left my 10p/litre voucher at home and picked up the 95p off a pomegranate one by mistake. Doh!

There was a really deep frost this morning, I struggled to change gear the first three miles... Brrrr.
Ouch, I take a 20 litre Jerry can when doing the 10p off fill up. :) I have filled two cars before though my local does not allow this(one car either side of the pump). My V8 defender made a great job of maximising the discount with its huge tank, then throwing my 'savings' out the tailpipe.
Hope you enjoyed your pomegranate.
 
Likely that you gearbox oil is water contaminated or someone as put or topped up wok mineral oil instead of the correct gear oil
The correct Audi gearbox oil (part number ending in A2) does not thicken when cold or thin when hot where as mineral oil goes like treacle when really cold making gear selection difficult until oil warms up normally after 3 to 5 miles
Suggest draining and refilling with correct oil TPS do it for £7 a litre you will need 2 litres. 1.7 is the capacity but you can’t get it all out so normal to get 1.6 back in
Unsure the fill plug comes out first
They are either 17mm hex Allen key or 12 point with a pip in the middle (latter cars use these)
 
The correct Audi gearbox oil (part number ending in A2) does not thicken when cold or thin when hot where as mineral oil goes like treacle when really cold making gear selection difficult until oil warms up normally after 3 to 5 miles

Thanks for that advice. I'll definitely get the gearbox oil changed the next time I book the car in at the garage. The oil currently in the box is still the original, and there's no obvious evidence of water ingress, but after 18 years it's obviously due for a change regardless.
 
Water gets in through the tower where the linkage attaches especially if the bonnet water collector is not in the correct position
It will be polluted after 18 years
 
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Aside from the impressive mileage you’re showing 200mpg. Did you reset at an opportune time then run a down hill section???
The 'mini DIS' system displays instantaneous mpg whilst moving. When you come to a stop, it displays the mpg that the car was doing just prior to stopping. During engine braking, the TDI cuts off the fuel supply to the engine. As such, at standstill, you often see insane mpg figures.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I thinks it’s just showing the instantaneous mpg which remains displayed until you start moving again
My first A2 I ordered DIS, I’ve just bought my second A2 (14 year gap) and it’s not got DIS so forgot how it operated. Colour DIS is on my radar and in discussion with timmus on it and then I’ll be able to see more info.
 
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