Here are the manual pages about removing and refitting the front subframe.
Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe
A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframeworkshop-manuals.comAudi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Removing
A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Removingworkshop-manuals.comAudi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Installing
A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Installingworkshop-manuals.comAudi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Tightening torques
A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Running gear, front-wheel drive | Front suspension, drive shafts | Subframe (basic running gear): exploded view | Locating subframe | Tightening torquesworkshop-manuals.com
Hope this may help.
You know me and my daft suggestions but,.............. If all is correct and bolted up with no issues, how about using a go pro to record what's going on.
Told you that it was a daft idea.
@Rusty911 / Barry, have you measured the relative position of each wheel in its wheelarch in case something (body / suspension) is out of true / specification?
Other than this, I had the same idea as @johnyfartbox - strap a go pro or similar where it can film at close range the suspension components at each corner as you drive; I think realistically it’s the only option left that could pinpoint where the issue is originating from.
I feel for you, what a frustrating situation! I don’t agree it’s a lemon car though, once you’ve solved this problem (and I do believe you’re the man to do so out of anyone by the way), it returns to being a worthy and sound basis for a really nice car that will give many more years of service.
Stick with it, you’ve done most of the hard problem-solving!
Honestly, it's how it is and it was nice to hear frankly. Again, the previous owner is well in the clear: he has always had work done when needed and decided to sell (possibly for parts if it really came to it) as the car, fundamentally, is an old car that probably had more bills coming up. The underside damage was there when he bought it, and everything that he was 'in charge of' (bodywork / interior) is a credit to him. It had given excellent service for nearly a decade and it was time for a change. Both of my FSi's are in the same camp: borderline and could go either way, but both were nearly free so you've simply got more to play with to get them back into health.Oh, just want to clarify my lemon car post. It was a spontaneous comment I made in empathic mindset, in no way meant as disrespect to prevoius owners, or intended to decrease your bonding with this car Barry. I am glad that you persist , and very interested to hear the handling issue root cause as it is quite puzzling.
An interesting thread ... I bought a set of locating pins when I replaced my wishbones last year ... but they are really for locating the position of the sub frames before they are moved ... and if they have been moved already without the locating pins then is there a procedure for finding where the correct position is ...?
Will the location pins help in finding the correct positions from scratch, or merely help to copy the present positions before dismantling?Quick update, having read through @audifan 's subframe links (thanks again Graham), it seems that in order to move forward I need the location pin set equiv. T10096.
Have ordered those up so now in holding pattern until they arrive. Process itself looks pretty straightforward. Hopefully I'll find everything's miles off.
Failing that I'll probably do a full bush replacement on front and rear ends, so to that end I've also preempted this by ordering a universal bush extraction / insertion kit.
Will the location pins help in finding the correct positions from scratch, or merely help to copy the present positions before dismantling?
I'm assuming the former: hope so anyway!
Hi Rusty ... not sure if this will help ... the captive nut sits in a plastic tray inside the chassis and is designed to float around to allow you to tighten up the bolts in any (hopefully the correct) position ... if you drop each bolt in turn and insert the pin as in the workshop manual then all you will do is re-locate the sub frame and consoles in exactly the same position ... the conical part of the locating pin is slotted and held in place around the threaded pin with a rubber 'o' ring and fits exactly the dimensions of the console bolt hole. I'm not an expert though but only have practical experience ... I ended up using the original marks that I had drawn onto the sub frame around the consoles before removal.
As you mentioned earlier ... yes you can let the sub frame float if you undo all four bolts but because each locating pin is in two parts it won't really help you to relocate 'dead centre' ... which of course might not be in the correct position for any different car ... you can relocate 'dead centre' quite easily without the pins by looking up through the console hole and sub frame.
As 'Audifan' said ... it would be great if there was a guide for locating the sub frame from scratch
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