Turbo Damage AMF 1.4Tdi

leosun76

Member
Hi, so I finally got the turbo off my car, was a bit limited in time and resources hence it has taken me so long. Good news is that I did not have to move the engine or loosen any major parts to get the turbo out. I managed to squeeze it out below on the right hand corner with the oil feed pipe attached as could not get the b****r off.

Now I just want to check before I put the other turbo in what could have caused the inducer Compressor Wheel to be eaten away? Is there anything else I need to check because I don't want to go through the same pain shortly after installing the new turbo.

PS. I have not figured out yet where the oil leak came from, it could be the rocker cover gasket on the RHS(when you stand in front of car facing the engine) or , pls see attached pic, it could be coming from behind this part?? I am sceptical about it being the rocker cover as it was newly replaced not too long ago...but then again...so I did get a new gasket anyway.

Much appreciate any suggestions.

J
 

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That sort of impeller damage looks like debris? Are all intake hoses and air cleaner element in good condition?
I would be inclined to do a compression check on the cylinders just to be sure of no internal damage.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
thanks for that Jellybean, I will check the filter etc to see as I agree with you, it must have been caused by debris. Will I be able to do a compression test on the engine with all these parts off the car...my guess is no? I have no idea.
 
Yes you will. Suggest you remove all glow plugs to get a decent cranking speed and yest each cylinder in turn

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
Yes you will. Suggest you remove all glow plugs to get a decent cranking speed and yest each cylinder in turn

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
ok cool, never done this before so will have to look into it or get someone to help me, thanks ??
 
If the tandem pump is starting to fail, then better to change the pump for a Bosch one. Otherwise you can change the gasket that fits between the tandem pump and the head. Just make sure you get OEM quality one of the correct type as there are two different types.
 
Key thing is to ensure the charge air pipework and intercooler core are completely free of debris.
If you can, it's also worth checking the piston crowns etc with a borescope

Assuming nothing entered the turbo via the air cleaner / pipework, the compressor wheel failure may have initiated from the tip of a blade breaking off, possibly due to worn bearings allowing the wheel to rub on the casing.

For info, the turbo oil feed pipe can carbon up with age and restrict oil flow. Many turbo repair shops insist on a new pipe being fitted as a condition of the warranty

Cheers Spike
 
Key thing is to ensure the charge air pipework and intercooler core are completely free of debris.
If you can, it's also worth checking the piston crowns etc with a borescope

Assuming nothing entered the turbo via the air cleaner / pipework, the compressor wheel failure may have initiated from the tip of a blade breaking off, possibly due to worn bearings allowing the wheel to rub on the casing.

For info, the turbo oil feed pipe can carbon up with age and restrict oil flow. Many turbo repair shops insist on a new pipe being fitted as a condition of the warranty

Cheers Spike
That is great thanks Spike - am replacing all 2 oil pipes as per Audi recommendation.

Am busy putting it all back together now - will update on my progress ??

Many thanks for sharing and taking the time to respond ??
 
So the time has come - all back together just need to lubricate the turbo with some oil and tighten up the oil feed pipe.

I still have to take off the Tandem Pump and I have a new flange just incase mine is broke.

Need to drain the coolant completely and release any pressure and could try replace same flange and see if coolant stops leaking.

Question: will I have to take the flange off when I remove/replace the Tandem pump or is that not nescessary?

Many thanks,
Jacques
 
So the time has come - all back together just need to lubricate the turbo with some oil and tighten up the oil feed pipe.

I still have to take off the Tandem Pump and I have a new flange just incase mine is broke.

Need to drain the coolant completely and release any pressure and could try replace same flange and see if coolant stops leaking.

Question: will I have to take the flange off when I remove/replace the Tandem pump or is that not nescessary?

Many thanks,
Jacques
 

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Yes the one below the tandem pump - I accidentally loosend the bolt holding it just a little and then it started leaking - but I need to take the tandem pump off anyway as I suspect that is the culprit where the oil leak is coming from. Got another one just need to get seals etc
 
Before you disconnect the fuel hoses from the tandem pump ( if you are replacing it ) protect all rubber hoses with a bin bag then put some cardboard on top to absorb the spilled diesel. If you do not the diesel will destroy the rubber hoses. The face between the tandem and head has to be super clean and dry. only use a QUALITY gasket and run the bolts down to only just touching the pump and then torque them in a diagonal pattern. With the pump off and openings blanked off gives a bit more access to the temp sensor / manifold to change the seal. Again clean surfaces before rebuild. You could also swap the temp sensor for a good OEM one while it is exposed.
 
Engine is
Looking a bit more presentable again :) Waiting on kit for tandem then can get that done - thanks for the advice about the coolant etc ??

Must say without this forum and advice from members here I never would have attempted this work myself and I feel really cheffed I did!
My heartfelt thanks to you all! I can get on to bring RED to a new condition as close as possible ??
 

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And a quick wash and RED is as happy as can be :)
 

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