Vibrating clutch issue

Sylvester

Member
Hi all, my A2 has been having vibrating clutch issue, but it's more noticable now, it gives proper massage to my foot through my shoe. Does it in neutral and even more when I drive. Car has over 160K miles, possibly still original clutch.

It feels the pedal vibrates only half way through it's travel, until the clutch engages I assume. Changing gear still fine, no slipping clutch and finds gears first time, only occasionally reverse 2nd time, pulling from 1st gear sometimes a bit shakey though.

Maybe friction plate or bearings? I assume probably not an easy job, but I'd like know if there's anything I could check first, cheers.
 
This is the 1.4 petrol in your profile and not a TDI90, right? If it's the '90, first suspect would be the dual mass flywheel.
 
How old and what colour is the brake fluid and when was the clutch last flushed?
I'm actually planning to replace the brake fluid soon as it's quite dirty indeed, only I can't find the clutch bleeding nipple, even after following the posted diagram. Could that be the issue maybe due stuck air? Cheers
 
Indeed the only DMF in the range is in the TDI90, it will be SMF in yours. I was just checking as the symptoms are so like a DMF and people don't always update their profiles e.g. if they buy another A2.
 
The clutch line operates at a lower pressure than the brakes. If it is old and contaminated fluid, more common than trapped air, it will have a greater effect on the clutch operation. Not saying it is the complete answer but I would say at least a contributor. Brake fluid should be changed 3 years from new then every 2 years thereafter. The clutch fluid SHOULD be done at the same time but often it is overlooked or even never done.

a3-15851.png

On the above picture you are looking into the engine bay from the left wing. The bleed nipple in this diagram already has had a bleeding tool fitted over it.

a2-3554.png


In the second image you can see the nipple bottom / right on the slave cylinder. Different gearboxes but the nipple will be located as per one of these. Note do not over torque the nipple as the black plastic will break.

Do not be surprised when bleeding the slave cylinder if the pedal goes to the floor and does not return. just slide your foot under it and gently lift the pedal back up. Once the nipple it sealed the pedal will return as normal.
 
The clutch line operates at a lower pressure than the brakes. If it is old and contaminated fluid, more common than trapped air, it will have a greater effect on the clutch operation. Not saying it is the complete answer but I would say at least a contributor. Brake fluid should be changed 3 years from new then every 2 years thereafter. The clutch fluid SHOULD be done at the same time but often it is overlooked or even never done.

a3-15851.png

On the above picture you are looking into the engine bay from the left wing. The bleed nipple in this diagram already has had a bleeding tool fitted over it.

a2-3554.png


In the second image you can see the nipple bottom / right on the slave cylinder. Different gearboxes but the nipple will be located as per one of these. Note do not over torque the nipple as the black plastic will break.

Do not be surprised when bleeding the slave cylinder if the pedal goes to the floor and does not return. just slide your foot under it and gently lift the pedal back up. Once the nipple it sealed the pedal will return as normal.
I'll have a look this weekend and hopefully will be all good, thanks a lot.

EDIT 09/2022: just in case anyone comes across this thread, the clutch was on its way out, hence it was so heavy and vibrating, still 160k before completely giving in, is a very good result. All changed now, clutch feels much lighter and no vibration at all.
 
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