Volkswagen Lupo 3l 1.2 TDI

Authopsy

New Member
So the thing is I recently put on a new clutch kit, changed the gearbox oil. So mechanically there are no problems with the car. Even bought a semi-used clutch slave cylinder from Germany. While doing the basic setting for the gearbox. The option "STARTMOT!" shows up and I just can't start the engine. I have checked the fuses and relays. They all seem okay. What could be the problem?

Best regards,
Authopsy
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
You have a problem with the clutch. When you press the brake pedal what happens to the clutch voltage? Upper and lower readings please and do they change quickly?

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
You have a problem with the clutch. When you press the brake pedal what happens to the clutch voltage? Upper and lower readings please and do they change quickly?

RAB
The clutch is working propely, when I press the break pedal. The voltage changes instanlty. Both reading change instantly. Lower readings are 1.85V and higher readings are 3.9V-4V. So basically in that deparment everything is okay.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
How many times have you tried doing a basic setting? It doesn't always work first time. Also, I wouldn't buy a secondhand clutch actuator - they are consumable items; the potentiometer might be the problem.

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
How many times have you tried doing a basic setting? It doesn't always work first time. Also, I wouldn't buy a secondhand clutch actuator - they are consumable items; the potentiometer might be the problem.

RAB
I have tried doing it 3 times. And all the time I stop at "STARTMOT!", because I can't start the engine. Even in neutral sometimes it doesn't start. Well, I will check the potentiometer again, but nothing says that it isn't working. Shouldn't VCDS show that there's a provlem with it?
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
If you can start in neutral, it's almost definitely the potentiometer that's at fault; it's on its' last legs. Send the electrical end to Mankmil on the German forum. He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall sensor. Cheaper than buying a new actuator. VCDS won't show it as a fault.

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
If you can start in neutral, it's almost definitely the potentiometer that's at fault; it's on its' last legs. Send the electrical end to Mankmil on the German forum. He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall sensor. Cheaper than buying a new actuator. VCDS won't show it as a fault.

RAB
Could be possible, but the thing is that it sometimes doesn't start also in neutral. But sounds kind of logical. I will see. I think I have another potentiometer, which I could try.
 

Authopsy

New Member
If you can start in neutral, it's almost definitely the potentiometer that's at fault; it's on its' last legs. Send the electrical end to Mankmil on the German forum. He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall sensor. Cheaper than buying a new actuator. VCDS won't show it as a fault.

RAB
And also I live in Latvia, which is quite far from Germany.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
I have sometimes bought spares from Latvia and Lithuania! What's the problem?

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
I have sometimes bought spares from Latvia and Lithuania! What's the problem?

RAB
There isn't a problem, haha. Just the time consumption. Because I have dealt with this problem since January and I just want the car to be done faster, but looks like that won't be possible.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Try your old potentiometer first. If you changed the actuator because the cylinder failed, the potentiometer should be OK. But it will only be a matter of time before that also fails. The Hall sensor has no wearing parts.

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
Try your old potentiometer first. If you changed the actuator because the cylinder failed, the potentiometer should be OK. But it will only be a matter of time before that also fails. The Hall sensor has no wearing parts.

RAB
What exactly is the "hall sensor". Can I fit it myself? Or do I need a specialist who would be able to do it etc..? I will try the old one and when I have some information, I will let you know.
 

Authopsy

New Member
Try your old potentiometer first. If you changed the actuator because the cylinder failed, the potentiometer should be OK. But it will only be a matter of time before that also fails. The Hall sensor has no wearing parts.

RAB
Looks like even with the old clutch slave cylinder the problem is the same. While doing the basic settings, everything stops at "STARTMOT!". There was even a glitch, where showing "N!" I started the engine, and it started without any problems and ran quite well, but everything was stuck at "STARTMOT!" again. Is it normal for the clutch slave cylinder to be in a semi-opened position? That is around 2.68V in block 4 in Basic Setting 04, Group 14, when block 1 shows "Startmot!", but it doesn't start. Very interesting.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
If it's stopping at 2.68v, it could be that the guide sleeve is in a terminal condition. If you leave it overnight, does the voltage go any lower (without touching the foot brake)?

RAB
 

Authopsy

New Member
If it's stopping at 2.68v, it could be that the guide sleeve is in a terminal condition. If you leave it overnight, does the voltage go any lower (without touching the foot brake)?

RAB
Hmm, haven't tested that. I will see what I get.. But I believe it did go a bit lower. When I got the clutch changed, he also changed the guide sleeve.
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Until you have a reliable clutch actuator, you are wasting your time. Send the potentiometer part to Mankmil; that's the cheapest option. The potentiometer is a consumable part.

RAB
 

RAB

Technical Specialist 1.2 TDI
Are you sure that the clutch actuator is mounted correctly? Is it correctly engaged with the end of the wire bracket? If you can rotate it with respect to the bracket, it's not mounted correctly. Otherwise see immediately above.

RAB
 
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