Washer Fluid Pipe

Antiguakidd

Member
I noticed there was a leak somewhere in my engine.

Having looked closer, it comes from the pipe connecting the washer fluid input and the reservoir. The split is about 6 inches down from input, where it touches the other pipe.

Any suggestions on repairing?


Thanks, Elliot
 
I noticed there was a leak somewhere in my engine.

Having looked closer, it comes from the pipe connecting the washer fluid input and the reservoir. The split is about 6 inches down from input, where it touches the other pipe.

Any suggestions on repairing?


Thanks, Elliot
Your forum details show a FSI. I have several suggestions, the first of which is to contact @Kleynie who is breaking a FSI for the part. Also local(ish) to you.

Andy
 
Your forum details show a FSI. I have several suggestions, the first of which is to contact @Kleynie who is breaking a FSI for the part. Also local(ish) to you.

Andy

Cheers Andy

What are your other options. From what I have seen getting the reservoir and pipe out to replace is quite labour intensive. Would rather avoid if possible
 
You don't have a lot of choice. Wheel arch liner out to get to the reservoir.... And otherwise you can't really replace the ribbed pipe. Assume 2-3 hours of work for yourself. You do not need to take the bumper off, or it would be a chunk longer. I just had my liner off yesterday, it's a pain.

- Bret
 
Cheers Andy

What are your other options. From what I have seen getting the reservoir and pipe out to replace is quite labour intensive. Would rather avoid if possible
Second suggestion is buy new, Crewe Audi will eventually be back working, not long now I think. Unfortunately the pipe does not seem available separately and you have to buy the filling hopper in the service hatch as well since the pipe appears bonded to it, to say nothing of the labour.


Third suggestion is bodge it.

The suggestion of sealant may work, it very much depends on the nature of the crack, after all as I see it any water pressure and leak is only transient during filling.

Alternatively it strikes me you may be able to repair somehow with corrugated hose intended for connecting garden water butts (garden centres are strangely now open!). A rough measure of the A2 pipe is somewhere near 28.5mm OD which is in the the same ball park as the common 25mm (ID I think) water butt hose. You might get away with cutting the pipe at the crack and using a connector, but without further details it is difficult to say.


Just an idea, feasibility needs assessment.

Andy
 
Second suggestion is buy new, Crewe Audi will eventually be back working, not long now I think. Unfortunately the pipe does not seem available separately and you have to buy the filling hopper in the service hatch as well since the pipe appears bonded to it, to say nothing of the labour.


Third suggestion is bodge it.

The suggestion of sealant may work, it very much depends on the nature of the crack, after all as I see it any water pressure and leak is only transient during filling.

Alternatively it strikes me you may be able to repair somehow with corrugated hose intended for connecting garden water butts (garden centres are strangely now open!). A rough measure of the A2 pipe is somewhere near 28.5mm OD which is in the the same ball park as the common 25mm (ID I think) water butt hose. You might get away with cutting the pipe at the crack and using a connector, but without further details it is difficult to say.


Just an idea, feasibility needs assessment.

Andy

Rather bizzarely, I thought of your last suggestion. Think I am going to try that. Just got to work out the size for definite.
 
Unfortunately the pipe does not seem available separately and you have to buy the filling hopper in the service hatch as well since the pipe appears bonded to it, to say nothing of the labour.

According to this:


The reservoir and pipe are separate. The part no. for the pipe is 1J0 955 751 D.

RAB
 
Looks to me like that part number for the pipe is given in the diagram previous to all the individual sections of the output pipe to the washers, with the numbered reference giving you the length to cut. At 6mm internal bore it's definitely too thin for the input pipe.

I have to agree with Andrew, from the diagram the large diameter input pipe does look to be one part with the swivelling filling hopper. I've actually got one here off a previous breaker - sadly it's holed so it's not really any better than the one the OP has, or I'd have offered it. But I can see that it has moudings for the join at either end an even an O-ring at one end. If it helps though, I do remember it just pulling off at both ends - it was a good interference fit but not bonded. So a breaker part and getting the wheel arch liner out would be a viable route to a fix.
 
It is good the pipe is not bonded, I simply must have not pulled hard enough. Now you have one to hand what is the internal diameter? I think Antiguakidd is keen on minimum labour and to avoid removing the arch liner.

Andy
 
A bodge basically *can't* work. It's a corrugated pipe; your fix can't get into the channels between corrugations. You might get lucky.
Replacing the input to the reservoir is a pain and there's no easy way to do it without the arch liner coming out. I replaced my reservoir for the big one a few years back and it was a true pain - I didn't lock the feed pipe in place at the time and now I needed to, so it's got some heatshrink on which just fit (and I'll buy into the idea it's a 28.5mm pipe). This is not a fun job to do - I took the other arch liner out at the weekend and fought with the damned thing for 10 minutes to get it in or out - but there are no shortcuts on this one IMO.

- Bret
 
As promised I've looked at the pipe I have. It's about 28mm intermal diameter at one moulded end and about 24mm at the other, which has the O-ring. I'd give +/- ½mm on those measurements. The entire thing actually seems to be one moulding though, so unfortunately I can't get the internal diameter of one of the corrugated sections in the middle without cutting it in half. I'd rather not do this though as it's only lightly holed, and I was intending it as a spare to get me by if one of my three A2's should get a split one. If it's any help, at a best guess with a ruler and line of sight from the outside, I'd say it's about 23mm internally. The best fix would definitely be a breaker part and suck up the pain to fit it.
 
As promised I've looked at the pipe I have. It's about 28mm intermal diameter at one moulded end and about 24mm at the other, which has the O-ring. I'd give +/- ½mm on those measurements. The entire thing actually seems to be one moulding though, so unfortunately I can't get the internal diameter of one of the corrugated sections in the middle without cutting it in half. I'd rather not do this though as it's only lightly holed, and I was intending it as a spare to get me by if one of my three A2's should get a split one. If it's any help, at a best guess with a ruler and line of sight from the outside, I'd say it's about 23mm internally. The best fix would definitely be a breaker part and suck up the pain to fit it.
Thanks for checking. I just ordered a connector and will update with how well it fits
 

According to this:


The reservoir and pipe are separate. The part no. for the pipe is 1J0 955 751 D.

RAB
This information here is incorrect. The part no. given is for the tubes to the washers. The pipe and reservoir are sold as one unit but the pipe is detachable. The part no. is 8Z0 955 453 B.

RAB
 
All sorted. The link for the part I ordered is below. (25mm)

It's a bit tight but will go in. Tight and no leakage at all.

Couple of jubilee clips at each end of the connector to hold it tight and it looks like new (Ish!!)

IMG_20200715_113314.jpg
 
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