Water still coming in :(

Removed the rest of the D and C post trim and gave the car the watering can test.
Nothing came in at the offside but now it pidddled in the nearside off the corner of the headlining...

Figured that I had nothing to lose at this stage so tried opening the OSS...

CLACK CLACK CLACK started to open, then it tried to rack as there is no "drive" going to the nearside, so hastily closed it again.

Headling out after a soothing cuppa. I need one.
 
Its out. Someone has been here before, damaged hooks on the switch panel, passenger vanity light is damaged.
Previous "technician' only had a screwdriver for trim removal :(
Some clips have been left behind on the OSS frame, one small piece of the lip about 30mm long has broken out at one clip, it wont show.
Water drip point is the stud and nut indicated.
IMG_20210314_164322_4.jpg
IMG_20210314_164348_8.jpg
 
That would indicate a blocked drain or the seal mentioned earlier has gone. Trouble is that you cannot clear the drains properly in that area with the roof shut.
Sounds like the cable has parted company with the runner on one side, this is the usual problem. What you can do is open it to the tilt position, then remove the motor and push the roof open by hand, once the rear panel lifts you can get to the drains, but only just. You really need to remove the rear moving glass panel to access the drains properly.
and don’t worry about the broken part of the blind frame, they all break near the central cross bar, but it makes no difference really as it’s hidden when reassembled.
 
I found a picture of the area with the rear glass panel removed View attachment 77500to explain a bit more, I have marked it up (poorly) to help. The stud and nut you are pointing to is in the cable channel, there should not be water there (obviously), so, I have pointed out the drain, and the seal that stops water getting to the cable channel. So, if the drain is blocked you can see how water could get past the seal, into the cable channel and then down the stud that you point to. Problem is, you really need to remove the rear glass panel to access this drain properly, you can then clear it with a pipe cleaner (it’s small).
I hope that helps you.
Ian
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Thanks, that's a big help. So the method is : use motor to get front panel tilted, then drop motor to disengage the gear from cables and then push them both back a way to gain access to rear drain.
Then I can see the state of seals etc.
Desperate to just get this car dry inside.
 
Thanks, that's a big help. So the method is : use motor to get front panel tilted, then drop motor to disengage the gear from cables and then push them both back a way to gain access to rear drain.
Then I can see the state of seals etc.
Desperate to just get this car dry inside.
Yes, exactly that. I might take some pushing and it would be worth pushing the rear panel upwards (tilt) as well once the front panel engages with the rear.
 
I'll try to have a go this afternoon, looks like I have unblocked the offside but made the nearside worse.
 
That would indicate a blocked drain or the seal mentioned earlier has gone. Trouble is that you cannot clear the drains properly in that area with the roof shut.

Stupid question, but because I have an OSS (which works, albeit noisily and not used since last year) worth asking anyway. To clear out that drain from the roof end, you need access with the panel out of the way.

However - the drain must have two ends. The other end of the drain must come out somewhere near the boot-lid hinges at the rear end of the roof, then drain around the tailgate opening and thence out of the car? Is it not possible to make inroads with the tailgate lifted, maybe using something like mountain-bike brake cable (coarse) with a bit of rigidity to it so that it pushes through, and revolving this so that the 'thread' of the cable acts like an Archimedes screw to draw junk out towards the tailgate? Might not be ideal but possible if the roof cannot be opened. What is the maximum diameter available of these drains?
 
@Robin_Cox no you cannot do as you describe as if you attach the drain from the tailgate end you will clear the first 12” or so, but you will only be clearing the gutter - the gap between the OSS and the roof bodywork. The drain that comes from within the OSS structure enters the gutter at an angle, it is a very small drain, maybe 5mm diameter, it would be almost impossible to guide a cable or rod up the gutter and then at an angle to enter the drain. This is why you need to attack it from the other end, under the rear glass tilted panel.
Its quite hard to explain without a decent picture. I can get a picture tomorrow if you require?
Ian
 
thanks for the detailed answer! I had to ask the question - this makes it clear why that idea couldn't work. Image would probably be a good idea since we are all learning from this.
 
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