Wheel bearing removal, driveshaft stuck.

I presume you have slackened the driveshaft retaining nut?

It is said that the inner cv can be done in situ but I wouldn't fancy it

I think removing the shaft complete with the hub will be your best option then maybe take it to a garage and get the shaft pressed out should you ever need to do future repairs. It may be worth welding a blob onto the end of the cv to hopefully heat soak it and liquidate the locktite to help release the shaft from the hub without compromising the bearing
Howdy, i attempted hammering with and without the retaining nut but slackened, and same with pulling with the improved puller. I will try tomorrow to remove the whole thing together
 
I blew up a hydraulic puller on this job. Finally got it using a cheap large hub puller and extra long breaker bar.
Others have used an impact gun and cheap large hub puller.
 
I’ve stayed this in the past a few times
The trick is a combination of a pusher ideally an hydraulic one and a sds drill in hammer mode with a chisel bit which has the end cut off so it is just a piece of bar end
The nut is removed the pushed out in place and a good amount of force applied then the sds hammering is done on the side of the cv joint keep rotating the cv so you are hammering in different position and keep applying force for to the pusher as the joint starts to move
Never failed to get one out yet

Paul


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Hi,

On an FSI; I used a combination of a blow torch and a puller. It moved for about 0.5mm at a time before starting to give. It was; heat it up, then tighten a bit and so on.

Evros
 
Hi,

On an FSI; I used a combination of a blow torch and a puller. It moved for about 0.5mm at a time before starting to give. It was; heat it up, then tighten a bit and so on.

Evros
These hydraulic pullers are filled with grease to provide the hydraulic medium which will liquefy & leak out if subjected to or in the vicinity high temperatures.
 
i removed the hub and axle combined, it was a mess inside

IMG_20231113_183844.jpg
IMG_20231113_184323.jpg

I noticed a tiny hole on the thinnest part of the boot, is this normal or did i accidentally puncture it? Or could it be a breather?

IMG_20231113_212004.jpg


Finally, i couldnt put back the hub attached to the shock bottom, the hub is pretty heavy (and the axle doesnt help). I tried to put screws to widen the hole but not much luck.. any suggestions?


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Clean the area where the shock will go into very well and apply some grease. DO the same for the shock.

Use cold chisel thick enough to widen the hole but not with a tip long enough to prevent the shock to go in. Maybe cut some of the chisel end off with an angle grinder.

Use a trolley jack to take the weight off the hub. THis will help you to put the strut back in.

Don't forget the plastic caps at the top.

Evros
 
Have you got a knuckle spreader?

IMG_0827.JPG



Wedge it in and twist it. Otherwise a blunt cold chisel as above.

Then grease everything, align the location tag with the slot, jack hub into position.
 
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Have you got a knuckle spreader?

View attachment 115360


Wedge it in and twist it. Otherwise a blunt cold chisel as above.

Then grease everything, align the location tag with the slot, jack hub into position.
Thank you for this, i ordered one from amazon and it was super easy to get it back in place!
IMG_20231117_193103.jpg


Everything is back into place and car is running again :)
Now i have to change the boot on the other side..
 
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Wow!!!

I just read this. I know now how lucky I have been with my front hubs! They literally just slid out!!! Trying to contend with the rusty strut to shock bolt that snapped off was bad enough.
In all my years, I have never seen a CV joint lock-tighted into the splines of a drive flange. A smear of copper grease, yes. And I put mine back together like that too. And all the other bolts I remove from my Rover(s) and A2.

What I am not looking forward to doing is the front wishbones V soon. The thought of removing the cradle bolts does give me the heebie jeebies TBH.
 
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