That is if you’ve got oxy/acetylene available then again you’ve access to 30 ton press so guessing your in a work shop.If your not caring about the bearing or the cv joint, id roast the end of the cv joint with oxy acetylene then it should expand then conract when cooling and it will help release it from the hub.
Hi,That is if you’ve got oxy/acetylene available then again you’ve access to 30 ton press so guessing your in a work shop.
I hope this works out ok, are you going to fit a new bearing into the leg before you fit it or just chance it?Hi,
I gave up on trying to get the driveshaft out.
I managed to find a whole leg with the wheel bearing on it for £40 delivered.
Got tired with it.
30 ton press was a friend of a friend. Did not want to be impolite by asking him to heat it up and stuff as he was already doing me a favour.
I'm going to have to chance it because I have a bad feeling that I will have to go through the same headache for the other side. I've got new bearings and the tool so will decide once the cars back on the road.I hope this works out ok, are you going to fit a new bearing into the leg before you fit it or just chance it?
Keith
The bottom of the driveshaft looks very close to the floor, I think you may need to raise the beam or pack up the knuckle.I've been having the exact problem last weekend. I was shocked to see I bent the beam on my 12ton Press. I might look at some of those tools above. Cheers chaps.
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The drive shaft was raised off the floor while pressing. She was well as truly stuck. I just picked up a secondhand hub for £30 and a new shaft from GSF for £130. Weren’t to bad.The bottom of the driveshaft looks very close to the floor, I think you may need to raise the beam or pack up the knuckle.
Recording this to benefit other members looking for the correct torque. There are two designs of inner CV joint detailed in the manual.Quick update.
So out driving today and the driveshaft popped out from the inside. Had the car recovered. I was 100% sure i had tightened the inner driveshaft bolts. Did a bit of googling and apparently you have to use new bolts after removing old bolts. About to get some new bolts. Does anyone know the torque setting for the bolts. It's the spline bolts m10x20.
Someone even mentioned loctite. I am terrified of the stuff after i saw what it done to the driveshaft
Undo the screws and it comes off from memory. If that doesn't work heat is your friend.Hope it is OK to use this thread for my question.
I'm trying to get the whole driveshaft out. It's of course stuck at the outer CV.
But it's also stuck at the inner CV. Any ideas how to get it loose.
Looking in the manual it seems pretty simple to get it loose.
I have just this month changed my passenger side driveshaft on my 2001 tdi. The six bolts were hard work, i can only assume that some adhesive was used. However, I cracked them with sustained hard pressure and then they just came off with no additional struggle. From experience I would use a good quality 12 point bit and make sure it is properly seated. I did find the first one quite unnerving from the stripping perspective.Hope it is OK to use this thread for my question.
I'm trying to get the whole driveshaft out. It's of course stuck at the outer CV.
But it's also stuck at the inner CV. Any ideas how to get it loose.
Looking in the manual it seems pretty simple to get it loose.
I can't imagine what this post said to be edited by a moderator but I found the inner CV screws easier to remove and torque up again working at the side of the car. A quality bit, a very long 1/2" extension and a means business breaker. Wheels off, get somebody to press the brakes, force the bit into the screw head with your body weight, backwards and forwards a few times on the breaker then pull firmly. Rotate drive shaft to access the next screw. I don't know if this was necessary but after the first screw the second to be released was opposite the first etc.I have just this month changed my passenger side driveshaft on my 2001 tdi. The six bolts were hard work, i can only assume that some adhesive was used. However, I cracked them with sustained hard pressure and then they just came off with no additional struggle. From experience I would use a good quality 12 point bit and make sure it is properly seated. I did find the first one quite unnerving from the stripping perspective.
With the hub end, I sacrificed an old socket and whacked it with a sledgehammer. Sustained pressure is not a good idea as it just heats up the molecules in the adhesive causing them to grip harder.
PS I changed the shaft without undoing anything else, apart from the undertray. I removed the six bolts first and the driveshaft just dropped down and then I whacked it out of the hub. I struggled with the replacement until I realised that it was not fully home in the hub. Once I had drawn it in fully with the nut it went onto the 6 bolt flange with no problems at all.