Which coolant for 1.4 petrol?

Sylvester

Member
Hi guys, I did my search but didnt find answer. What coolant do I need for 1.4 aua 75hp? Its pink inside my reservoir but online orders want to send blue? Cheers
 
As Sarge says G13 latest Audi coolant but it originally was filled with G12 as stated on the expansion tank. So G12, G12+ G12++ and G13 are all suitable. NOTHING ELSE.
 
As Sarge says G13 latest Audi coolant but it originally was filled with G12 as stated on the expansion tank. So G12, G12+ G12++ and G13 are all suitable. NOTHING ELSE.
Thanks guy, but what is that G12 number? Halfords search engine gave me G30 but on the bottle there's nothing like that data. With my previous cars it only said the colour of the coolant in the manual if I recall that right. Cheers
 
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Nobody has mentioned dilution, I read G13 diluted 50% with "special" purified water. It might be more convenient to buy your G13 coolant ready diluted.

Andy
 
Best to stick with the genuine G13 VW/Audi coolant which is (not) available pre diluted. Correct that, yes it is - see post 9 below

Lowest acceptable dilution rate is 40% G13 with 60% de-mineralised (distilled or de-ionised are other names and all suitable for cooling systems)

50% is the best compromise and anything above 60% G13 with 40% water actually reduces the cooling system performance

Cheers Spike
 
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Euro car parts have G12 and G13

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Cheaper than amazon and to the same spec.
 
G13 is a must for FSI's ........as they rely on running the cooling system above the boiling point of pure H2O (109c with correct antifreeze/pressure cap) you cannot scrimp on antifreeze a few quid saved now will be a recipe for disaster....and costs in repairs that will make the few quid you saved look like pin money...............
 
Made to the same spec, so why wouldn't you use it. That is like saying you will only run a car on the exact same make and model of tyres that it left the factory with. Still your choice.
 
Made to the same spec, so why wouldn't you use it. That is like saying you will only run a car on the exact same make and model of tyres that it left the factory with. Still your choice.
It may be made to the same spec but through experience of after market products and a life time in the motor trade there are just some things that I prefer to use to have security and piece of mind........................oil is a prime example, formulations can meet a spec for a period of time but when stressed and exposed to combustion byproducts it degrades very quickly. (I could invite a good friend in the US who works for Chevron in oil development and who also holds patents for products to give us a run down on this but I'm sure we don't want to spend weeks trying to understand ......LOL) the same can be found in antifreeze and for the sake of a few pence is it worth finding out when your cyl head has corroded away or the side effects of chemicals used caused internal silting of the block......
Of course its horses for courses and everyone maintains their car differently and on a different budget but I'm sticking with the stuff they fit at the factory when it comes to trying to keep an FSI cool..........
 
As I said it is the end users choice. Same spec and 5 year life is more than good enough for me. I do agree on genuine items in a lot of engine areas, filters, Castrol oil, genuine oil and pumps to name a few.
 
Best to stick with the genuine G13 VW/Audi coolant which is not available pre diluted.

Lowest acceptable dilution rate is 40% G13 with 60% de-mineralised (distilled or de-ionised are other names and all suitable for cooling systems)

50% is the best compromise and anything above 60% G13 with 40% water actually reduces the cooling system performance

Cheers Spike
I seem to have opened a little can of worms!

It was only a suggestion to use ready diluted, personally I would prefer to dilute myself (something wrong with that phrase), my problem is I am not a chemist and do not fully understand the different types of "special" waters. Am I right in thinking de-mineralised has the hard water deposits removed, stuff traditionally sold for the domestic iron, distilled is pure water made from condensing steam, expensive due to the high energy costs in boiling the source water. God knows what de-ionised water is, okay ions removed, but does this also remove the hard water problems and what is the benifit? Need a chemist.

Always dubious about these premixed, especially eBay and want to avoid 'Peckam Spring' fraudsters (that might need explaining to younger members!). I buy my "special" water in France at Carrefour, much cheaper than the UK or am I being conned again?

I suspect if you do NOT live in a hard water area tap water will be fine?

Andy
 
I AM a chemist. I use the stuff pictured above.

I use Scottish water so it’s very soft. I’m adding a certain amount of mineral and chemical contamination as well as ionised material but hereabouts it’s very very low levels and if the systems and materials of the AMF engine can’t tolerate this minute quantity then it’s a very poor day for Audi engineers.

I personally wouldn’t use water with any kind of sediment or dissolved material in excess - certainly nothing which forms deposits in normal use. The small waterways may become clogged with line scale due to temperature changes causing preferential deposition due to reduction in temperature in your heat exchangers.

Deionised or distilled is, of course, ideal because it’s going to have no depositable materials and no risk of trying to form salts or ionic bonds with your engine. Don’t use Evian (a funny story).

Ps. I very much suspect even the worst OAT based coolant will far outperform an earlier generation coolant. Those purists who insist on using factory standard coolant in 30 year old cars are really missing out on the advancements in material and chemical science. I bet those engines of yesteryear would have drooled over the cheapest Pink coolant.




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Incidentally, deionised water is mostly useful for lab work. You electrically strip the ions from the water - the charged elements, like H+ and O2- which are free and reactive. However, that is a temporary state and it will decompose because there is always some chemical degradation going on. Even exposing it to air will cause reintroduction of ionic materials and other chemicals - like carbon-based species. Every time your filler cap is opened you’ll produce HCO3- and free H+ in your deionised water from breathing nearby.

For distilled water the source is still important. Critically it should remove anything liable to go solid when the water is evaporated and that’s really what’s key here but if your source water was full of mercury or similar low vapour point contaminants they would also be carried over into the condensate. I can’t imagine any company who makes it would be silly enough to use mercury rich source water but you never know.

Anyway, it should be fine no matter what but avoid hard water or anything carrying a lot of deposits or contaminants - calcium, iron or even peat.


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