Death pipe location FSI

A2Steve

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
Wales
A couple of days ago someone posted a thread asking where the death pipe was on the FSI. I can’t find that post now, but I took the front end off the breaker this evening and so had an opportune time to take a photo of it’s location.

So here goes

DE1FA22D-5FAA-486E-8405-7CA081B1318A.jpeg

Marked in yellow, you can see it runs from the thermostat housing (on the left of the photo) down to the waterpump housing (right of the photo). This photo is taken from the back of the engine and so looking from the front the thermostat housing is on the right.
 
Andrew said:
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Andy
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Do you know how many of yer actual English Pounds that might be?

Also, as well The Death Pipe, do I remember reading about another coolant failure point: The Y-Pipe of Doom, The Tube of Torture, The Bypass of Nightmares? Ooh, The Housing of Horrors?

Basically, if I'm in there, what should I be doing:

Inlet de-coke and actuator freeing.
Death pipe.
?
?
 
It’s normally around £10-15.

It’s likely that the thermostat housing may crack when removing the death pipe so that’s worth considering. It’s not a cheap part but it’s price of mind doing it at the same time.

There’s also a “barometric” sensor on the lower inlet manifold (I think that’s what it’s called) which can fail and if it does then it’s another strip down to change it.
 
Rusty911 said:
Do you know how many of yer actual English Pounds that might be?

Also, as well The Death Pipe, do I remember reading about another coolant failure point: The Y-Pipe of Doom, The Tube of Torture, The Bypass of Nightmares? Ooh, The Housing of Horrors?

Basically, if I'm in there, what should I be doing:

Inlet de-coke and actuator freeing.
Death pipe.
?
?
Click to expand...
As Steve says from £10 on eBay to £40ish from Audi with well known OEM brands between. It is date stamped with a clock face if you can get a picture to read it, anything older than 8 years replace is my advice otherwise leave alone.

Same with thermostat housing (£100 including new thermostat and temperature sensor) if you can read the the date stamp.

Always good at this stage to have injectors professionally tested and cleaned (£100).

Pictures!

Andy

PS. Never had a Y leak but from memory easily accessible so ignore for now.
 
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Is anyone here able to confirm whether the death pipe should just be able to pull out of the water pump housing, or whether there is some trick to it?
 
@A2Steve Bit of a bump, but if you get the time, and your around the filler, inner wing, fuel rank, area of an FSI, any pics that will clarify the petrol tank vent system would be much appreciated. Especially the collection of plumbing just below the filler cap, and where the plumbing ends up, on top of the tank.
The recent realisation that small leaks (thanks to @terrywindy1 ) in the vent/purge system can cause miss fires/hesitancy could do with a final analysis.
Mac.
 
A2Steve said:
I’ll take some photos if I can.
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Thanks Steve, no rush at all, but would be good to understand what's hidden inside the filler neck area. If it helps, I'll willingly buy the assembly, then section it at my place.
This diagram, from @Andrew refers to the area that we're short of info on.
Mac.

image.png
 
Tomscar said:
Hi Chris, yes it is a simple push fit and sealed with an O ring.
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..... and it may not apply with the FSI but in the middle of the pipe is a cable holder. Turns out last year a member, 1.4 I think same pipe, could not pull out the pipe as the cable was acting like a tent guy rope preventing retraction, came out with a wiggle once aware of it when cable unhooked.

Andy
 
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Andrew said:
..... and it may not apply with the FSI but in the middle of the pipe is a cable holder. Turns out last year a member, 1.4 I think same pipe, could not pull out the pipe as the cable was acting like a tent guy rope preventing retraction, came out with a wiggle once aware of it when cable unhooked.

Andy
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.... quite right there Andy, there is a cable slotted into the bracket halfway along its length on the 1.4 version and much easier to see if you have access from underneath the car.
 
Thank you both for the replies. Turns out that the issue was the rubber o-ring being swollen, meaning the pipe wouldn't budge. Came out eventually, thereby avoiding an impromptu timing belt and water pump change.
 
Thanks for the very informative information...... do not know whether to laugh or cry? I am off for a ‘Gin and Tonic’.
 
The waterpump being removed doesn’t help because the pipe goes into the waterpump housing which stays in situ.

Having the engine off its mount and dropped forward to do the timing belt will allow better access to the death pipe though.
 
tnpali01 said:
Can anyone confirm if doing death pipe at same time as the cambelt and water pump replacement makes the job easier . Does the water pump removal allow for better access?
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Hi there, as Steve says above, the coolant pipe is a pushfit into the housing and not the pump itself. I managed to do it from underneath, access isn't too bad but you have to at least loosen off the thermostat housing and remove a U shaped plastic clip ... which is very awkward in situ ... I was replacing the thermostat housing anyway and found it much easier to remove the pipe and reinstall with the housing out of the car ... I just couldn't see a way of installing the U clip after its clamped in position.
I bought the Topran housing, it's been trouble free and reasonably inexpensive, I've done a write up on the forum somewhere if it's any use to you.
 
Hi,

Just to add. It is easier to clear the area on top, by removing the fuel pump and hoses. Then all you have to do is fish out the housing with the pipe as one piece. When refitting, you can assemble the pipe+housing as one with the U clip and put it back in. If the o-rings of the pipe and housing are in good condition you should feel a slight spring action as you tighten the 3 housing screws.

Evros
 
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