Yesterday morning decided to go for it. Auxiliary belts and tensioner are off, I refitted the vibration damping pulley for smooth running and have the car on ramps held there by its new handbrake:
Decided to use my engine support bar, the job can be done without but I'm sure it will be less hassle with it in place:
Made job no1 removing the sump. This was because I couldn't be sure the gap in the DMF would align with the two screws at the rear of the sum once the timing is locked. It doesn't so this was the correct starting point. With the gap well positioned both screws can be accessed without moving the engine further. The long 5mm key was essential for removing the screws along with the 10mm socket to get them moving:
Got a view of my target:
Back to the front of the engine and engine mounting removed:
Decided to loosen (not remove) the crank bolt next. Primarily because I thought it would be a two man job and my mate was available. It did turn out to be a two man job. The locking tool is a whopper and the breaker bar on the other end was the same length:
Then I set and locked the timing. Not an easy job, the locating hole in the head was burred and wouldn't take the 6mm cam locking tool. A 5.5mm drill went in easily and I could feel the burr. Had to run a 6mm drill in there and clean things out.
Fit my new water pump and it dumped at least a litre of coolant on my tools. Have a bucket ready.
Decided at this point to call it a day.
Had a couple of disasters. Of the 4 sump screws in the front crank seal casting one snapped, 2 stripped out the threads and the 4th on the LH side of the engine came out cleanly. The casting is £110 new:
M7 Helicoil kit on order.
Also broke the dipstick tube, about £30 to replace. Not sure if there any tips for others on how to avoid having your sump dangling from a dipstick tube?
Edit: See how to thread for updated info / advice
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-chain-and-chain-tensioner-replacement.35539/