1.6 FSI Service Guide

R

RatchRoyal

Past Member
I'm fairly handy with the spanners, have done a few VAG and BMWs before but the Audi A2 looks slightly different - read 'tight and complicated'

Is it user-servcieable without needing a ramp etc?

I have various torque wrenches, oil filter tools etc.

I guess what I'm saying is, are there any how-to guides on here for a dry run or any tricky things to watch out for?

I'll be using Genuine or OEM supplier parts.
 
There seem to be quite a lot of service guides avaiable on eBay. For example this one. Does anybody know if they are worth getting? It sounds like it is some sort of diagnostic software rather than PDF manuals.
 
Yeh I don't mean those kinds of guides - I meant more a heads up on any special Audi way of doing things, or tool that I may need.

Mainly:

Oil/Fuel/Air filters all accessible from above the engine bay?
Torque Settings for Spark Plugs?
Pollen Filter easy to swap or buried in the dashboard area?
Torque Settings for Disc and Pad renewal?
Torque Settings for Wheel Bolts?

Etc.

Much appreciated.
 
There was a thread on this and it's been deleted due to massive breach of copyright.

The waterpump / cambelt threads spec individual tools which are required.

Bret
 
Breach of copyright????

It should be common knowledge - just displaying the figures here shouldn't worry any publishers?

Anybody have the info above...?
 
I service my own FSI. All very do-able to the home mechanic.
Longest part of changing the oil is removing the undertray (squillions on bolts and then two more in the wheel arches!).
Removing the oil filter needs a bit of manual dexterity, I find it easier the take it out from the top, but its a tight squeeze past the alu heat shrouded hoses.

If you want more info then post your questions on here and I will do my best to answer. I don't know torque settings (but do have vagcom so could check if your really wanted to know!)

All the best!
 
Cheers bud.

How do you know whether the Spark Plugs are in at the correct depth?

Oil Filter not torqued or do you just do it all 'hand tight?'

There's no flap to access the sump plug?

I'll be doing the next service for sure but want to be prepared as I don't want it to take a moment longer than it should.

Oil is any quality brand 5-30w Full Synthetic...?
 
You were asking for instructions on how to do stuff; this generally exists only from Audi unless someone here has already created the how-to.

However, three minutes with google gives:

oilfilter: hand tight, no official torque figures

Plugs: 25Nm, guide here for an FSI: http://www.a2-freun.de/forum/showthread.php?t=31221

No flap to access the sump plug, many have drilled holes and others have replaced the plug as it's liable to problems (see "bochumer stopfen")

Oil is anything that adheres to 503.00 and NOTHING ELSE.

Vag-com won't help with Torque numbers and they're already elsewhere on the web if you know where to look.

Bret
 
For spark plugs use genuine audi ones (they are no more expensive and the NGK alternative looks different...though seemed to run ok but I only had them in for a month).
Oil filter is just a nice nip up, no point in it being too tight.
Also the full tray has to come off for a proper oil change, otherwise you can't wipe up the bit of oil that WILL drip from the filter when you remove it.
Air filter is easy to replace while undertray is off. Held on by 2 bolts (which WILL have rusted a bit...just like the numberplate light bolts).
 
wheel bolt torque is 120Nm.

I'm surprised, but noone has posted torque figures for brake pad changes. Maybe there aren't any to be done? I know I'm still on the first pads and disks after 9 years.....

Bret
 
This is more like it guys - thanks again.

I'll just use Polo/Golf torque settings for brakes as even though the A2 I just bought 'only' has 53,000 miles, the fronts were replaced last year and the rears are worn and slightly crusty around the edges. Have ordered new discs and pads and will fit it all at the next interval.

These engines are coil on plug right?

Sunroof is already playing up with a slight clunk at halfway like it's getting caught on something. Second panel (rarely) refuses to move.

My local VAG mechanic advised against grease as it dries up and adds friction? Regular WD40 for lubrication and moisture displacement was suggested.
 
BADs are coil over plug, yes.

crusty rear brakes are completely normal and even if you do replace them, they'll be back again soon enough.

Don't use WD40 on the roof, you will ruin any chance you had of kulanz if you do. There is a specc'd lubricant and nothing else will do. Check the long threads on this, there are lots of issues and essentially no-one in the UK is prepared to replace / repair them.

Bret
 
First priority...get that roof lubed!!!
As said above there are many threads on these roofs failing and they are VERY expensive/difficult to fix.
Do not use WD40, it is not safe on rubber and will damage none metal components.
My A2 does not have a sunroof, but on my V40 I use a combination of silicone spray lube and light silicone grease. These are rubber compatible and don't do anything bad. The silicone grease I use is actually meant for brakes and is called Mintex Ceratec, but its a very soft silicone grease so ideal for things like sunroof rails.

The coils (which are known to fail on early cars at £25 a unit) are easy to remove. The knack is to rock them gently in the socket to get them to move, brute force is not the answer. Do not be tempted to lube the coils when you insert them. If you do then you will probably block the breather channel that runs up the side of the coil, creating an airtight pocket underneath the coil. You will then be scratching your head wondering why the coils pop off everytime the engine warms up....doh!

For the brakes, I bought a mintex set. They are fine. Next time I will probably get something with softer pads, particularly on the rear. I hope doing this will stop the rear corroding as much as they do by scrubbing the disk more.
 
Rear brakes are quite worn which is the main reason but Zinc coated discs don't crust as anywhere near as badly the edges.

Disappointed at this OpenSky roof on initial experiences as it was one of the main decisions for buying an A2. I've read that there is a place in Germany that do repairs for a fraction of Audi's ridiculous methods but I find it hard to believe there isn't a preventative action that vigilant owners can do to keep it smooth - mine works about 90% of the time but I'm trying to make it last.

@ Brett - What is BADs? and what is 'kulanz?'
 
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BAD is the engine code (this is standard information for all VAG units, no? MKB in German).

Kulanz is the German word for a desire of any manufacturer or reseller to give "goodwill" replacements, for example on the roof story. A replacement roof via Rinner costs around a service, as opposed to €2k. They will also not replace if the car is over 10 years old. I'll be testing mine properly this spring.

Bret
 
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