tdiquattro
Active Member
I Posted in the "Today I" thread and so by request here is a quick write up...
The stock front brakes are fine, keeping mind the weights of the range, but if you push on a bit they can give some slight fade/overheating. As usual all that is needed is a bit more meat to take away that heat. This readily comes in the form of the Fabia VRS/TDi fronts. Now I know you can source all new and one user has done this in the past, but I cant stretch to that, so used parts are very cheap and bolt straight up. (as an asside if you have a failed wheel bearing this is a very cheap fix)
What needs changing..
- Caliper and fixing bolts
- Pads (new full set pagid £28)
- Caliper carrier and fixing bolts
- Hub with dust/splash back plate, (new hub nut £5)
- Disc (new pagid £31 each)
If you are lucky you can pick up the complete hubs with disc/caliper/carrier/pads for about £40 a side. I chose to replace discs and pads but i suppose you could use the old ones if they are known good.
That's it. Everything else just fits, existing drive shaft, tie rod, brake hose (needs new copper sealing washers x2 each side), and the abs connector plugs straight onto the salvaged hub.
So a few pics;
First loosen the driveshaft nut, if you dont have a rattle gun then do this before you remove the wheel. The first test is that you can get the drive shaft out the back of the hub, so once the nut is off confirm you can tap the shaft backbards and it is loose/movable, this can be tricky. If you place a 17mm impact socket over the thread it rests on the shoulder of the shaft and then you can belt it to see if it will move.
If not then you can proceed, remove the entire hub with shaft attached and take it to be pressed out. Altenatively buy another second hand drive shaft for about £40 and fit this to the new hub.
So assuming all is loose, then unbolt the 7mm allen bolts x2 that hold the caliper on, and the 10mm bolt that holds the hosebracket on, release the abs cable from the bracket and unplug, unplug the brake ware sensor if this is the passenger side. Place the caliper on the ground towards the back of the car.
Undo the pinch bolt on the shock at the back of the hub (2x18mm sockets), and tap out can be tricky if you dont have a rattle gun. spray penetrating oil around the top of the hub/shock clamp. Undo the tie rod end nut, place an axle stand under the tie rod end and lower the weight of the car onto it if it spins.
Tap the hub downwards on the cast top ribs with a gert big hammer, add more spray as you go and tap upwards to help the lube get in there. when it is off undo the 3 bolts/nuts (13mm) on the lower wishbone ball joint and remove the hub from the shaft.
Clean and grease the end of the shock and shaft (yes I know audi say to put locktite on the shaft but I would like to be able to get it back off!! ) up to you. because of the arb you will need to angle the hub as it goes back up the shock, turn it toward the indside front as you push it on. Pull the wishbone down and push the ball joint fixing in.
Add a jack under the wishbone to tension the shock against the hub. Tap upwards with the hammer and watch the shock tab going into the slot in the hub clamp, try the clamp bolt until it goes right through, this is the indication the shock is at the right depth.
The stock front brakes are fine, keeping mind the weights of the range, but if you push on a bit they can give some slight fade/overheating. As usual all that is needed is a bit more meat to take away that heat. This readily comes in the form of the Fabia VRS/TDi fronts. Now I know you can source all new and one user has done this in the past, but I cant stretch to that, so used parts are very cheap and bolt straight up. (as an asside if you have a failed wheel bearing this is a very cheap fix)
What needs changing..
- Caliper and fixing bolts
- Pads (new full set pagid £28)
- Caliper carrier and fixing bolts
- Hub with dust/splash back plate, (new hub nut £5)
- Disc (new pagid £31 each)
If you are lucky you can pick up the complete hubs with disc/caliper/carrier/pads for about £40 a side. I chose to replace discs and pads but i suppose you could use the old ones if they are known good.
That's it. Everything else just fits, existing drive shaft, tie rod, brake hose (needs new copper sealing washers x2 each side), and the abs connector plugs straight onto the salvaged hub.
So a few pics;
First loosen the driveshaft nut, if you dont have a rattle gun then do this before you remove the wheel. The first test is that you can get the drive shaft out the back of the hub, so once the nut is off confirm you can tap the shaft backbards and it is loose/movable, this can be tricky. If you place a 17mm impact socket over the thread it rests on the shoulder of the shaft and then you can belt it to see if it will move.
If not then you can proceed, remove the entire hub with shaft attached and take it to be pressed out. Altenatively buy another second hand drive shaft for about £40 and fit this to the new hub.
So assuming all is loose, then unbolt the 7mm allen bolts x2 that hold the caliper on, and the 10mm bolt that holds the hosebracket on, release the abs cable from the bracket and unplug, unplug the brake ware sensor if this is the passenger side. Place the caliper on the ground towards the back of the car.
Undo the pinch bolt on the shock at the back of the hub (2x18mm sockets), and tap out can be tricky if you dont have a rattle gun. spray penetrating oil around the top of the hub/shock clamp. Undo the tie rod end nut, place an axle stand under the tie rod end and lower the weight of the car onto it if it spins.
Tap the hub downwards on the cast top ribs with a gert big hammer, add more spray as you go and tap upwards to help the lube get in there. when it is off undo the 3 bolts/nuts (13mm) on the lower wishbone ball joint and remove the hub from the shaft.
Clean and grease the end of the shock and shaft (yes I know audi say to put locktite on the shaft but I would like to be able to get it back off!! ) up to you. because of the arb you will need to angle the hub as it goes back up the shock, turn it toward the indside front as you push it on. Pull the wishbone down and push the ball joint fixing in.
Add a jack under the wishbone to tension the shock against the hub. Tap upwards with the hammer and watch the shock tab going into the slot in the hub clamp, try the clamp bolt until it goes right through, this is the indication the shock is at the right depth.