Audi A2 1.2 3L hydraulic, again....

G

grimchuck

Member
Hello,

A month ago a hose from the Hydraulic pump that goes to the gear selector came loose.Obviously I lost every shifting and the car shut off. It’s been at the garage since. My gear selector was always a little oily and I was losing very Little oil.I found a replacement of all hydraulic for sale. Pump, selector and clutch slave cylinder for €250. Since the whole system always gave me problems (sloppy gear change, leaks, gears randomly not shifting sometime) I thought I would go for it. The told me he never had problems and was doing « something with the software at ww » every year. I guess that would be the basic settings. The parts have been removed from hisrear ended lupo 6 month ago. My question, does it feel like a good move? Is there a risk of seals, gaskets, o rings etc of drying out if to long off the car? My car is actually off the road and the garage want to charge me €1300 to replace the clutch and slave cylinder but they are not sure if it’s the problem. They still didn’t reattach the loose hose, I just think they have no idea what they are doing with this car.
Sorry for the long post, Hope you can give me some advice...
 

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I just came back from the garage, the car is always in neutral now. ? apparently they forced the clutch lever with a pry bar and selected the neutral manually twisting pulling the selector shaft by hand. They then put the level in neutral In the car and all is good according to them. When you look in the engine compartment you can see the clutch slave cylinder wire wiggling in and out a few mm without really moving the clutch arm/lever. Doesn’t feel right all that....
 
Never take your car to a garage that is not competent with 1.2Tdi's! If they've bent the clutch arm, that will require replacement. The replacement parts will be OK apart from the fact that the hydraulic pump assembly is mounted differently compared with a Lupo, so the Lupo parts will have to be re-assembled on the Audi bracket. Do you actually need them? There are 1.2Tdi specialists in the Netherlands.

In neutral, with the engine running, it's normal for the clutch lever to move to and fro slightly.

As regards to 1.2Tdi's, maintenance has to be pro-active; never wait until something goes wrong. An inspection of the clip holding the hoses in place, would have revealed the wear on the clip that eventually gave way.

RAB
 
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Thanks RAB, I will have the car sent over there.

I would like to bring the car in front of the house since I don't really want to leave it at this garage anymore. I live around 600 meters from the garage, is it safe to just pull it in the state the garage left it?.

Let's say I would want to try reconnecting that hose after replacing all o-rings and the securing spring before I finally send it there. What would you suggest to get it back to a normal gear position to be able to perform a basic setting?

I was thinking of:
1- leave the car the way they left it (gearbox in manual gear with the lever on N)
2- disconnecting the battery and remove the connector from the hydraulic unit.
3- replace all 5 O-rings and reconnect everything with a new securing spring on the gear actuator.
4- quarter turn on the pressure ball reservoir
5- refill the system to the right level with proper VW/Audi hydraulic fluid.
6- reconnect hydraulic pump and battery.
7-turn to acc and hopefully I'm able to put the lever on STOP and everything returns the right position.
8- if I have some kind of shifting, I perform the basic settings following the Ross-Tech instructions.

If this doesn't work I will go to your suggested garage on a flatbed instead of on its wheels.

Make sense?
 
If it won't drive, try it in neutral and push/tow it home. You'll have to reverse any changes the garage made if you know what they've done. No need to disconnect the battery although it might need charging. Follow the Ross Tech instructions to the letter. Good luck!

RAB
 
@RAB, i saw you posted on a German forum about the hydraulic pump. Were you successful in replacing the seals and o-ring of the hydraulic pump? Or same happened as the other, succès for a few days then return to bad pressure?
 
I did replace the seals of the switching valve, which is part of the hydraulic station. I used Viton seals, not the Butyl rubber O rings recommended by German members; the latter are not compatible with the hydraulic oil, which may explain their lack of success. It was successful but only replace the O rings if you can see visible damage as there seems to be disagreement about the sizes required.

RAB
 
Hello,
Here are a little follow-up and more questions.

As RAB previously mention, it was very easy to see the wear on the spring clip and the hose that came out. Believe it or not, the garage told me they fixed it... So far I took the pump unit, clutch actuator and all hoses out of the car. I took apart the pump unit as far as I was comfortable following the instructions on a German forum. Besides the fact that the motor was full of carbon powder, everything looks visually good. I carefully cleaned as much as I could to get ready for reassembly when the new parts are here. the ordered parts include; silver hose, all hoses o-rings, spring clip (gear selector side), lock pin (clutch actuator side), and o-ring for the motor shell (old one was all stretch).

Question 1:
The one-way orange nipple thingy on the potentiometer unit of the clutch actuator is broken (see picture). Any suggestions to fix that? I was thinking of inserting some plastic (ideally threaded) tube and secure it with a mini tie wrap.

Question 2:
Obviously, by tacking apart everything as I did, most of the hydraulic oil is out of the system. What would be the right way of reassembling and refilling the hydraulic system? Is it just reassembling everything and refill the reservoir with fresh oil (with pressure ball half-turn unscrewed) or does it needs to be bled to get the air out? There seems to be some kind of bleed screw on the clutch actuator but I'm really just guessing here. maybe (probably) this has been discussed already but I'm out luck finding any clear way of doing this. Your help would be very appreciated.

Hopefully this will be the end of this chapter after that...

Thank you!!

G
 

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The orange nipple is a breather for the actuator; it allows air and any oil that gets past the seal to exit. It should face downwards otherwise there is a risk of the electrics being submerged in oil. The "beak" of the nipple prevents grit etc. entering the actuator. Difficult to replace.

There is indeed a bleed nipple on the actuator but I've never found a requirement to use it or any instructions to use it; if you do, the oil that exits will cover the gearbox. No need to re-fill with the accumulator unscrewed unless the system is already pressurised. Re-check the level after some use.

Make sure that the two hoses to the gear actuator are connected correctly; one is a feed, the other is a return. Cross-connecting will not end well!

RAB
 
Hello,

So... everything is back in the car. First, it felt quite promising since everything started to move as it should. The clutch cylinder and gear actuator seems to do what they have to do. At that point, the car still didn't start. I scanned for error code and got an n255 error code. I thought with everything that happened this could be normal. I clear all error codes and started Basic settings. Everything went through until I had to start the car in the Gear Actuator Adaptation. The car doesn't start... Nothing, not a sound.

Any suggestion of where to look for or what to try?

Thank you
 
What was the original error code? 01612? Any error codes after basic setting?

RAB
 
I disconnect the battery fo a few minutes just to see if it does anything. Now, something weird is happening. As soon as turn the ignition ON, the clutch opens. In the measuring block 002 of transmission, I have 3.96v instead of the 1.9v I had earlier. My foot is not on the break. I check again for error code and I get those:

01612 - Valve for Clutch Actuator (N255)
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00841 - Transmission Hydraulic Pressure Sensor (G270)
35-10 - - - Intermittent

feels like the computer is stock in the step of the basic settings it stopped at.
 
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Great link. Thanks!

So I'm now charging the battery, I'm gonna get contact cleaner and spray everything and will try again basic settings. I'll keep you updated.
 
Why are you charging the battery? Charger should be connected during basic setting. Voltage should always be above 12v during basic setting.

RAB
 
I realize that the battery was really low after sitting for so long. I just want to make sure I have enough juice to through the starting steps during basic settings.
 
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