Audi A2 Alarm going off now some electrics not working

C

chris1972

Member
Came downstairs this morning and the A2 alarm was beeping, couldn't turn the alarm off using the fob and eventually (the car was frozen) got the boot open with a view to disconnecting it, but this seemed to stop the alarm. The engine would start and the doors could be opened manually using the key

The car is drivable but I've noticed that some of the electrics aren't working, the windows, the fob for the central locking, the boot catch and some of the dashboard indicators along with the overhead internal lights were flashing intermitently. There also appears to be a whirring sound as if something is running or in use even when the engine is switched off

I'm assuming there is some form of electrical fault but wondered if anyone had experienced similar, to pinpoint the problem before having to take it into the local Audi dealer
 
chris1972 said:
Came downstairs this morning and the A2 alarm was beeping, couldn't turn the alarm off using the fob and eventually (the car was frozen) got the boot open with a view to disconnecting it, but this seemed to stop the alarm. The engine would start and the doors could be opened manually using the key

The car is drivable but I've noticed that some of the electrics aren't working, the windows, the fob for the central locking, the boot catch and some of the dashboard indicators along with the overhead internal lights were flashing intermitently. There also appears to be a whirring sound as if something is running or in use even when the engine is switched off

I'm assuming there is some form of electrical fault but wondered if anyone had experienced similar, to pinpoint the problem before having to take it into the local Audi dealer
Click to expand...

Hi,

This sounds like a Central Convenience unit failure (passenger footwell under the floor)

Check to see that it is dry and all connections are solid.
If they are and it is dry, then it sounds like a CCU fault, but try a battery disconnect and reconnect first (although even if that works it sounds like it would be a temporary fix!)

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
Hi,

This sounds like a Central Convenience unit failure (passenger footwell under the floor)

Check to see that it is dry and all connections are solid.
If they are and it is dry, then it sounds like a CCU fault, but try a battery disconnect and reconnect first (although even if that works it sounds like it would be a temporary fix!)

Steve B
Click to expand...

Cheers Steve, having done some more digging on similar threads I think you're right and it's CCU related especially given the "ticking" noise it was making that is mentioned by several other people

I had a quick look at lunchtime (I'm at work) and the mat above the passenger footwell was a bit damp and given the damp weather we've had and then the frosty night last night it could be that. I checked all the connections and they seem to be OK but the car does "mist up" in the colder weather so I guess moisture must be getting in somewhere

Ironically the windows, central locking and boot are all now working again but I've seen mention that the fault sometimes clears temporarily when the car is left for a while or when a journey has been made.

I think I'll monitor it for the next few days and see how we go
 
It sounds to me like the CCCU is on the blink. Monitor it over the next few weeks, but if you get problems again, you'll have to start looking into a repair. The forum can advise...
 
timmus said:
It sounds to me like the CCCU is on the blink. Monitor it over the next few weeks, but if you get problems again, you'll have to start looking into a repair. The forum can advise...
Click to expand...

Agreed, and I would add that water / damp is a KILLER for the CCU etc., so please do try and keep that area dry.


The reason that it started working again could be because it dried out slightly, but water and electronics / chips do not mix.

Steve B
 
chris1972 said:
.......There also appears to be a whirring sound as if something is running or in use even when the engine is switched off
Click to expand...

Hi Chris,

Not sure if you have a petrol or diesel A2......in fact there's no info about your car, but if it's a TDi, then perhaps the whirring sound you heard after the engine was switched of is the Webasto on run-down mode.......perhaps not, but as the temperature was chilly I thought I mention it.

Cheers

Jeff
 
As a post script to this, we established that it was the CCU based on some of the posts on this forum and a mechanic friend having a look and hooking the CCU up to the relevant diagnostic equipment.
Lancaster AUDI in Manchester gave a quote of £800 to do the job which was never going to happen, given that the car itself isn't worth much more than that
The car has been in to our friend's garage where between him and his more electrically minded friend they had tried various attempts to clear the faults without replacing the unit resulting in the faults being removed temporarily and then returning but fortunately while the car was stored in the garage/lock up rather than on our drive annoying the neighbours

Ultimately the CCU has been replaced and we've had no further issues since we got the car back
 
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johnmed said:
Glad to hear the issue has been resolved.

How much did you get a CCU for?
Click to expand...
I would be interested in knowing how much a ccu unit goes for + does anyone know if you have to recode the keys , my one is on the blink (I think) and it might be worth my while trying a second hand one to see if it fixes my problems!
 
mathatcat said:
I would be interested in knowing how much a ccu unit goes for + does anyone know if you have to recode the keys , my one is on the blink (I think) and it might be worth my while trying a second hand one to see if it fixes my problems!
Click to expand...

When changing the CCCU, you will have to recode it for your car and link the remote controls.
Do you know the version of CCCU that you've currently got? You'll have to replace it with a similar version. It's also possible to have your existing unit repaired at a cost of roughly £100.
What symptoms are you getting, please..? All the locks, with their many microswitches, and the door control modules all link to the CCCU, meaning that faults in these areas are often confused for CCCU issues.

Cheers,

Tom
 
mathatcat said:
I would be interested in knowing how much a ccu unit goes for + does anyone know if you have to recode the keys , my one is on the blink (I think) and it might be worth my while trying a second hand one to see if it fixes my problems!
Click to expand...

Hi,
there are a few versions so get the right one.

I just bought one for my 2001 1.4 from Wassap at £65 which is not cheap and certainly not dear!!!
As with anything you can get them cheaper if you shop around and can wait bit though.

And as Tom said you will need to code the keys (using VCDS)

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
...you will need to code the keys
Click to expand...

If you install a replacement CCCU you will need to do more than just match the keys; there's other coding/adaption work to do. If you have your existing unit repaired, only key matching will be needed.

Cheers,

Tom
 
timmus said:
If you install a replacement CCCU you will need to do more than just match the keys; there's other coding/adaption work to do. If you have your existing unit repaired, only key matching will be needed.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...
Hi Tom,

I VERY rarely disagree with you but I have done this on two occasions and all I had to do was to pair the keys, everything else had already been coded for the previous car.

You may want to change settings if you don't like them (such as only unlocking one door etc.). but you don't have to.

Perhaps you mean if you buy a new CCCU?

Steve B
 
If you buy a second hand CCCU, it could be from a car with no climate control, or with rear electric windows, etc. As such, it would need to have its settings checked and corrected for its new host vehicle.

Cheers,

Tom
 
timmus said:
If you buy a second hand CCCU, it could be from a car with no climate control, or with rear electric windows, etc. As such, it would need to have its settings checked and corrected for its new host vehicle.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...

Hi Tom,

I can't argue with that, but I must have been lucky in the two changes I did (and the car had rear electric windows).

I can see that some settings may need to be changed, but not always.

Thanks for balancing the discussion.

Steve B
 
timmus said:
When changing the CCCU, you will have to recode it for your car and link the remote controls.
Do you know the version of CCCU that you've currently got? You'll have to replace it with a similar version. It's also possible to have your existing unit repaired at a cost of roughly £100.
What symptoms are you getting, please..? All the locks, with their many microswitches, and the door control modules all link to the CCCU, meaning that faults in these areas are often confused for CCCU issues.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...
Hi Tom
sorry about the delay in responding (just been busy) - anyway I have cccu 8z9 959 433q - I have been having problems with the door lock which I have fix all bar the rear left which I have not got around to (micro switches) but the main problem is that I can not get the central locking working v the keys - I did a vag-com check which came back with
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Control Module Part Number: 8Z0 959 433 R
Component and/or Version: Komfortgerát T00 0600
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
37-00 - Faulty

I am a little worried that vag com said that the controlmodule is an R when I definitely have a Q fitted

Birchall said:
Hi,
there are a few versions so get the right one.

I just bought one for my 2001 1.4 from Wassap at £65 which is not cheap and certainly not dear!!!
As with anything you can get them cheaper if you shop around and can wait bit though.

And as Tom said you will need to code the keys (using VCDS)

Steve B
Click to expand...

£65 is pretty good - what VCDS do I need to code - I presume that vagcom free is not good enough?
thanks for all the replys on this so far
 
mathatcat said:
I am a little worried that vag com said that the controlmodule is an R when I definitely have a Q fitted.
Click to expand...

This happens regularly. My AF unit registers as an AE in VCDS. My old Q unit used to register as a P unit. Don't worry about it - go by what's written on the unit.

The Q unit is very unreliable, but luckily also very common. From what you've said, plus the codes you've provided, I think a new CCCU is required.
So, you've got the choice of replace or repair. I've got a spare (broken) Q unit that could be sent to Lau for repair, allowing your existing unit to stay in your car until the refurb'ed unit arrives with you.

Cheers,

Tom
 
timmus said:
This happens regularly. My AF unit registers as an AE in VCDS. My old Q unit used to register as a P unit. Don't worry about it - go by what's written on the unit.

The Q unit is very unreliable, but luckily also very common. From what you've said, plus the codes you've provided, I think a new CCCU is required.
So, you've got the choice of replace or repair. I've got a spare (broken) Q unit that could be sent to Lau for repair, allowing your existing unit to stay in your car until the refurb'ed unit arrives with you.

Cheers,

Tom
Click to expand...
from what I gather - it will still run with out it installed (apart from locking and windows) - so I can live without it for a month or so / if I decide not to go with one from ebay which could possibly be cheaper?
 
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