Back in the family - FSI this time.

Hi all,

A big thanks to @PlasticMac @Ami @Malcyb and others for the help so far.

Here she is.

Needs bits and bobs. Will need more help. Need to get some good (but affordable) diagnostic equipment.

James

1714861580557.png
 
I have a small hand held Audi diagnostic tool that dont use, you can have for £10 plus postage if you like.
 
I know there are some good hand held scanners BUT still recommend an old laptop with a USB port and VCDS as the results obtained are very much ideal for diagnosing and repairing faults. Usual caveat as the A2 is early in terms of computer diagnostics not everything can be diagnosed nor have codes.
 
I know there are some good hand held scanners BUT still recommend an old laptop with a USB port and VCDS as the results obtained are very much ideal for diagnosing and repairing faults. Usual caveat as the A2 is early in terms of computer diagnostics not everything can be diagnosed nor have codes.
I agree.
For VCDS Lite be a really useful troubleshooting tool, access to measuring blocks is essential, so there's the $99 registration to add on.
Still good value, when you consider the cost of replacing just one sensor that turns out not to be duff.
Mac.
 
I know there are some good hand held scanners BUT still recommend an old laptop with a USB port and VCDS as the results obtained are very much ideal for diagnosing and repairing faults. Usual caveat as the A2 is early in terms of computer diagnostics not everything can be diagnosed nor have codes.
Ill probably end up doing this. What exactly do I need?
 
Just a tip that worked out for me - have a look on eBay / Facebook marketplace /other 2nd hand sites. I picked up an old mini pc with vagcom installed on it and the cable for €20 last year.

I think It’s the classic sort of thing people find I a drawer after selling a car, and sell it on chrap rather than binning it.

Have your head screwed on as always of course when dealing with people on these sites 😉

Cheers,

Stuart
 
Ill probably end up doing this. What exactly do I need?
Any Windows laptop, any OS from XP on. When you register Lite, it's to one pc, so choose one that will last a while. You're allowed one change only. The change doesn't invalidate the first pc.
You need a lead. Ebay KKL leads work, but getting the correct driver can be a challenge. I have a couple of ebay leads, and they are fine. Only install the software that's downloaded from Ross-Tech, never from a CD, regardless of it's source. Ebay KKL leads are under a tenner. The alternative is to buy from Gendan, a bit, more expensive, (£19. 94), but because the chip, (that does the USB to Serial conversion), is genuine, drivers are not a problem.
The most important thing is to install the driver first, and do a restart before plugging the cable in for the first time.
This is because, if you plug the cable in first, the pc will allocate the standard USB driver, which does not work, and then you'll have to remove the device, (the driver), and start again.
And,of course, the A2OC FSI label file.
Mac.

 
Because VCDS Lite is limited to pre 2005/06 VAG vehicles, it does not support the BAD/FSI engine.
The official "full fat" version also did not, until late last year, support the FSI engine either.
A2OC members, with a bit of unofficial help from Ross-Tech, rectified this ommission, and Ross-Tech have added the appropriate label file to the full fat version too. Ross-Tech's policy is not to update Lite, but A2OC has a suitable file that can be easily added to an existing Lite installion, and which is a bit more user friendly.
Without the FSI specific label file, an engine scan is misleading at best.
Mac.
 
Because VCDS Lite is limited to pre 2005/06 VAG vehicles, it does not support the BAD/FSI engine.
The official "full fat" version also did not, until late last year, support the FSI engine either.
A2OC members, with a bit of unofficial help from Ross-Tech, rectified this ommission, and Ross-Tech have added the appropriate label file to the full fat versioton too. Ross-Tech's policy is not to update Lite, but A2OC has a suitable file that can be easily added to an existing Lite installion, and which is a bit more user friendly.
Without the FSI specific label file, an engine scan is misleading at best.
Mac.
 
Hello again,

So about a month in now and:

- Steering wheel vibrates sometimes. Could a steering bushing be worn out? How is the steering rack isolated?
- Cant pull the radio out with the ebay tools to correct the rear speaker white noise and fix a mind numbing rattle in the dash somewhere up behind the stereo
- Accelerator is dead and appears to need calibration so looking for a VCDS adaptations
- Car had too much oil in it so took a litre out of it on the weekend. And while under the car I saw...
- Red coolant slow dripping onto the undertray. Seems to be coming from directly up behind the sump. Apparently the death pipe was changed at 28k miles. I'm now at 79k. What minor disassembly can I do to confirm it is/isnt the death pipe?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240521_122820[1].jpg
    IMG_20240521_122820[1].jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 55
  • IMG_20240521_123416[1].jpg
    IMG_20240521_123416[1].jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 56
  • IMG_20240521_122803[1].jpg
    IMG_20240521_122803[1].jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 52
Have you got VCDS, registered Lite, or full, or OBD Eleven?
I think you need that to make progress.
The ebay radio keys are often not strong enough. It is worth creating a very slight upward curve at the end of the key so that it engages with the release mech in the radio.
Mac
 
Hello again,

So about a month in now and:

- Steering wheel vibrates sometimes. Could a steering bushing be worn out? How is the steering rack isolated?
- Cant pull the radio out with the ebay tools to correct the rear speaker white noise and fix a mind numbing rattle in the dash somewhere up behind the stereo
- Accelerator is dead and appears to need calibration so looking for a VCDS adaptations
- Car had too much oil in it so took a litre out of it on the weekend. And while under the car I saw...
- Red coolant slow dripping onto the undertray. Seems to be coming from directly up behind the sump. Apparently the death pipe was changed at 28k miles. I'm now at 79k. What minor disassembly can I do to confirm it is/isnt the death pipe?
Re the rattle in your dash, double check the wiper arm isn't tapping on the windscreen. this would give the impression of a rattle 'in' the dash!
Definitely get it scanned to determine the throttle fault.
I hope it isn't the death pipe, PITA to do, my local indi charged me £250 to do the last one at mates rates!
Have you got the stereo extraction keys in the right way round? Have seen many folk using them back to front, so nothing gripping the stereo to pull it out.

Last but not least, good luck, they are a brilliant engine when running correctly.
 
Thanks Clackers,

I've also noticed a little hunting on startup and sometimes it dips almost to stall 1-2s after startup. Does your do the same and what governs idle control on cold start?

Re the rattle in your dash, double check the wiper arm isn't tapping on the windscreen. this would give the impression of a rattle 'in' the dash!
Definitely get it scanned to determine the throttle fault.
I hope it isn't the death pipe, PITA to do, my local indi charged me £250 to do the last one at mates rates!
Have you got the stereo extraction keys in the right way round? Have seen many folk using them back to front, so nothing gripping the stereo to pull it out.

Last but not least, good luck, they are a brilliant engine when running correctly.
 
There are clearly some problems with the engine control system.
A scan, followed, almost certainly, by some remedial work should be your priority. Until you know more, continuing to drive may make matters worse. If you are lucky, adaptation of throttle, flaps, etc may be all that is required. Simply no way of knowing without diagnostic data.
Mechanical stuff, like coolant leaks, I'll leave to others to comment.
Mac.
 
Back
Top