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Now remove complete clutch pedal mounting bracket as follows:
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Release master cylinder operating rod from clutch pedal as follows:
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Installation is carried out in reverse sequence; note the following: |
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The arm -arrow- points towards clutch master cylinder -B-.
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Many thanksYes Tom it's pedal box out. Doesn't look to bad to be fair and the clutch pedal has it's own pedal box.
Enjoy
- Clamp off supply hose -A- coming from brake fluid reservoir using hose clamp, up to 25 mm -3094-.
- Disconnect supply hose -A- at clutch master cylinder.
- Pull clip -B- for pipe/hose assembly out of clutch master cylinder as far as stop.
- Pull pipe/hose assembly -C- out of clutch master cylinder and seal.
- Press in clip -B- back onto stop.
- Remove covers on driver's side (bottom)
→ Rep. Gr.68
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Now remove complete clutch pedal mounting bracket as follows:
- Remove securing nuts -arrows 1- and detach connecting plate -arrow A-.
- If fitted, disconnect cruise control system switch.
- Then remove securing nuts -arrows 2- for mounting bracket -B-.
- Take off mounting bracket.
Release master cylinder operating rod from clutch pedal as follows:
- Position pliers -T10005- in the clutch pedal recesses.
- Press the mounting together -arrows- and separate the clutch pedal from the clutch master cylinder.
- Turn stop -A- for clutch pedal in direction of arrow and remove.
It must not be covered in upper area by over-centre spring mounting -arrow 2-.
- Then push clutch slave cylinder in the direction of -arrow 1- onto stop.
Installing
- Then swing clutch master cylinder in direction of -arrow 3- out of mounting bracket.
Installation is carried out in reverse sequence; note the following:
- Retaining clip -A- must be fitted on operating rod -B- of clutch master cylinder.
- Press clutch pedal in -direction of arrow- until it engages. Ensure that it is properly locked.
Installation position:
- Fit stop -A- for clutch pedal again.
The arm -arrow- points towards clutch master cylinder -B-.
- Bleed clutch system after installing clutch master cylinder → Chapter.
- Press in retaining clip -B- as far as stop.
- Push pipe -C- into clutch master cylinder until it engages audibly.
- Push supply hose -A- from brake fluid reservoir on as far as it will go.
- Bleed clutch system after installing clutch master cylinder → Chapter.
Many thanks, yeah gave that a read but my assumption so far is that changing it in situ would be a royal pain due to spring. I have a car I am going to break (for my own purposes so could always practice on this one lol)Tom you are correct, the RHD does have the clutch and brake pedals in the same box. Although looks like a single bolt through the clutch pivot, the hard bit looks like the over centre spring. Do not think the whole pedal box needs to come out but pretty sure one of our breakers may know for sure. The instructions to remove the master cylinder does look like it also applies to RHD.
Have a read of this thread and prepare yourself!!
How to replace Clutch Master Cylinder?
I've had a very bad week this week made worse by the failure of this part. New part is being delivered tomorrow... Anyone done this? I've looked at a guide on line but it doesn't look anything like mine... Car is needed for work and I don't do 9-5 Monday to Friday... Any help much...www.a2oc.net
Many thanks did you not remove the pedal box then?I successfully replaced clutch master cylinder last year on an 05 tdi90. I don't remember the details (i'm over 50!), only the painful/difficult bits. the master cylinder was bolted to bulkhead/spaceframe with a pair of bolts (torx I think) which are accessed from the engine bay. Access is hard but isn't as difficult as you might imagine. The problem I found was the said bolts are buried deep in the sound/heat insulation and therefore impossible to see. It was a case of trial and error rooting around with various size torx bits on extensions to find the bolts. Then there is the risk, after having undone said bolts, of them dropping off the tool down between the bulkhead and insulation.
Perfectly doable job but don't put yourself under too much time pressure else swearing and cursing may ensue.
The cylinder looks to be secured from the interior side by the two 13mm nuts, I can't work out where any other direct fixings exist to secure the master? Got pipes off engine bay side will see what happens when I unclip it from the pedal and remove the nuts..No, definitely did not remove the pedal box. From my hazy memory the work in the footwell was relatively easy.
Yes the two bolts I'm referring to from the engine bay side secure the master cylinder directly.
No it's appreciated just trying to work out what I am up against, really appreciate your input!!I was careful to state mine is an 05 (ie 2005) tdi90. Maybe yours is different. Apologies for the bum steer if its different, just my experience.
Yeah I assume something has broken off and become lodged at the bottom of the cylinder in effect bunging it up and preventing fluid flow!No flow on a pressure bleed might suggest the piston isn't fully returning at the rest position.
Your correct!!I successfully replaced clutch master cylinder last year on an 05 tdi90. I don't remember the details (i'm over 50!), only the painful/difficult bits. the master cylinder was bolted to bulkhead/spaceframe with a pair of bolts (torx I think) which are accessed from the engine bay. Access is hard but isn't as difficult as you might imagine. The problem I found was the said bolts are buried deep in the sound/heat insulation and therefore impossible to see. It was a case of trial and error rooting around with various size torx bits on extensions to find the bolts. Then there is the risk, after having undone said bolts, of them dropping off the tool downeff between the bulkhead and insulation.
Perfectly doable job but don't put yourself th under too much time pressure else swearing and cursing may ensue.
Yes touch wood it's working fine thanks!Glad you succeeded in the end. I presume the clutch now works fine. Sorry, I forgot to mention that a second person is virtually essential for this job as you can't be in the engine bay and foot well at the same time. I got my son to be my eyes and nut holder in the foot well. The bit of foam you mentioned can just be pulled out to improve access, I guess it's there for sound insulation. I'm sure your thread here will help someone in the future.