Clutch Master Cylinder?
- Thread starter Howey
- Start date
MickAli
Member
Yes Tom it's pedal box out. Doesn't look to bad to be fair and the clutch pedal has it's own pedal box.
Enjoy
Enjoy
|
|
Now remove complete clutch pedal mounting bracket as follows:
|
Release master cylinder operating rod from clutch pedal as follows:
|
|
Installation is carried out in reverse sequence; note the following: |
|
The arm -arrow- points towards clutch master cylinder -B-.
|
|
Howey
Member
Many thanksYes Tom it's pedal box out. Doesn't look to bad to be fair and the clutch pedal has it's own pedal box.
Enjoy
- Clamp off supply hose -A- coming from brake fluid reservoir using hose clamp, up to 25 mm -3094-.
- Disconnect supply hose -A- at clutch master cylinder.
- Pull clip -B- for pipe/hose assembly out of clutch master cylinder as far as stop.
- Pull pipe/hose assembly -C- out of clutch master cylinder and seal.
- Press in clip -B- back onto stop.
- Remove covers on driver's side (bottom)
→ Rep. Gr.68
.
Now remove complete clutch pedal mounting bracket as follows:
- Remove securing nuts -arrows 1- and detach connecting plate -arrow A-.
- If fitted, disconnect cruise control system switch.
- Then remove securing nuts -arrows 2- for mounting bracket -B-.
- Take off mounting bracket.
Release master cylinder operating rod from clutch pedal as follows:
- Position pliers -T10005- in the clutch pedal recesses.
- Press the mounting together -arrows- and separate the clutch pedal from the clutch master cylinder.
- Turn stop -A- for clutch pedal in direction of arrow and remove.
It must not be covered in upper area by over-centre spring mounting -arrow 2-.
- Then push clutch slave cylinder in the direction of -arrow 1- onto stop.
Installing
- Then swing clutch master cylinder in direction of -arrow 3- out of mounting bracket.
Installation is carried out in reverse sequence; note the following:
- Retaining clip -A- must be fitted on operating rod -B- of clutch master cylinder.
- Press clutch pedal in -direction of arrow- until it engages. Ensure that it is properly locked.
Installation position:
- Fit stop -A- for clutch pedal again.
The arm -arrow- points towards clutch master cylinder -B-.
- Bleed clutch system after installing clutch master cylinder → Chapter.
- Press in retaining clip -B- as far as stop.
- Push pipe -C- into clutch master cylinder until it engages audibly.
- Push supply hose -A- from brake fluid reservoir on as far as it will go.
- Bleed clutch system after installing clutch master cylinder → Chapter.
However I think there might be a difference between left and right hand drive vehicles as from what I can see it looks like the brake and clutch share the same pedal box
audifan
A2OC Donor
Tom you are correct, the RHD does have the clutch and brake pedals in the same box. Although looks like a single bolt through the clutch pivot, the hard bit looks like the over centre spring. Do not think the whole pedal box needs to come out but pretty sure one of our breakers may know for sure. The instructions to remove the master cylinder does look like it also applies to RHD.
Have a read of this thread and prepare yourself!!
www.a2oc.net
Have a read of this thread and prepare yourself!!
How to replace Clutch Master Cylinder?
I've had a very bad week this week made worse by the failure of this part. New part is being delivered tomorrow... Anyone done this? I've looked at a guide on line but it doesn't look anything like mine... Car is needed for work and I don't do 9-5 Monday to Friday... Any help much...
www.a2oc.net
Howey
Member
Many thanks, yeah gave that a read but my assumption so far is that changing it in situ would be a royal pain due to spring. I have a car I am going to break (for my own purposes so could always practice on this one lol)Tom you are correct, the RHD does have the clutch and brake pedals in the same box. Although looks like a single bolt through the clutch pivot, the hard bit looks like the over centre spring. Do not think the whole pedal box needs to come out but pretty sure one of our breakers may know for sure. The instructions to remove the master cylinder does look like it also applies to RHD.
Have a read of this thread and prepare yourself!!
How to replace Clutch Master Cylinder?
I've had a very bad week this week made worse by the failure of this part. New part is being delivered tomorrow... Anyone done this? I've looked at a guide on line but it doesn't look anything like mine... Car is needed for work and I don't do 9-5 Monday to Friday... Any help much...
I successfully replaced clutch master cylinder last year on an 05 tdi90. I don't remember the details (i'm over 50!), only the painful/difficult bits. the master cylinder was bolted to bulkhead/spaceframe with a pair of bolts (torx I think) which are accessed from the engine bay. Access is hard but isn't as difficult as you might imagine. The problem I found was the said bolts are buried deep in the sound/heat insulation and therefore impossible to see. It was a case of trial and error rooting around with various size torx bits on extensions to find the bolts. Then there is the risk, after having undone said bolts, of them dropping off the tool down between the bulkhead and insulation.
Perfectly doable job but don't put yourself under too much time pressure else swearing and cursing may ensue.
Perfectly doable job but don't put yourself under too much time pressure else swearing and cursing may ensue.
Howey
Member
Many thanks did you not remove the pedal box then?
Picture of a pedal box from ebay, do those bolts you mentioned be accessed from the engine bay screw into the the actual master cylinder itself, hard to see what else they could be securing?
Cheers
Howey
Attachments
Howey
Member
The cylinder looks to be secured from the interior side by the two 13mm nuts, I can't work out where any other direct fixings exist to secure the master? Got pipes off engine bay side will see what happens when I unclip it from the pedal and remove the nuts..
Great to know the pedal box doesn't have to come out!! I have no flow at all thru the master even with pressure bleeder!!
Howey
Member
No it's appreciated just trying to work out what I am up against, really appreciate your input!!
Howey
Member
Yeah I assume something has broken off and become lodged at the bottom of the cylinder in effect bunging it up and preventing fluid flow!
Howey
Member
Your correct!!
It was more cost effective to buy a complete pedal box which included the master only £15 delivered from ebay, no idea how the economics of that work but hay ho lol!
The 13mm nuts which I presumed was on captive threads are indeed 8mm allen key headed bolts as you stated. These bolts sit within the rubber cup which surrounds the master pipe connections and are accessed from the engine bay, all makes sense now! Looks like no need to disturb the pedal or it's spring (thank the lord) just remove the plastic securing clip.
Will update when I get chance to have a go at it!
P. S ignore the workshop manual it is not in any way correct for a RHD A2!
Howey
Member
Right a break in weather and commitments allowed me to get at this job which has pestered my mind somewhat!!
First off a second person would really help, I don't have any friends so resorted to cable ties to counter hold spanners on the nuts in the cabin and allow me to undo the 8mm Allen key securing bolts. For reasons which baffle me Audi decided to put a foam ring around the outlet connections within the rubber boot which potentially foul access to engage your tool within the 8mm recess.Nearside wasn't bad but I thought I was in the offside (ohh eer!) but wasn't, this got me somewhat disheartened!!
I resorted to cutting the body of the housing from the cabin side to release the cylinder and allow me to get my fingers in (christ this is awkward writing lol) I pulled the foam out, could feel the bolt was in fact O.E (this part has been changed before as its dated 2019). Still struggling on my own to get my tool in, here a friend could have guided me home but we can't all be liked.
So I resorted to cutting the corner off my long 8mm Allen key ball end and grinding down the body to make it slimmer, this at last worked a treat and made the job possible!!
Refitting wasn't too bad but it's certainly a job I hope to never have to do again in fairness, dropping the engine a bit may well have helped
Next job rectifying the bodged wiring at the CCCU which is keeping the b pillar switches constantly live, the lengths folk go to avoid changing the drivers door micro switch is unreal!!
First off a second person would really help, I don't have any friends so resorted to cable ties to counter hold spanners on the nuts in the cabin and allow me to undo the 8mm Allen key securing bolts. For reasons which baffle me Audi decided to put a foam ring around the outlet connections within the rubber boot which potentially foul access to engage your tool within the 8mm recess.Nearside wasn't bad but I thought I was in the offside (ohh eer!) but wasn't, this got me somewhat disheartened!!
I resorted to cutting the body of the housing from the cabin side to release the cylinder and allow me to get my fingers in (christ this is awkward writing lol) I pulled the foam out, could feel the bolt was in fact O.E (this part has been changed before as its dated 2019). Still struggling on my own to get my tool in, here a friend could have guided me home but we can't all be liked.
So I resorted to cutting the corner off my long 8mm Allen key ball end and grinding down the body to make it slimmer, this at last worked a treat and made the job possible!!
Refitting wasn't too bad but it's certainly a job I hope to never have to do again in fairness, dropping the engine a bit may well have helped
Next job rectifying the bodged wiring at the CCCU which is keeping the b pillar switches constantly live, the lengths folk go to avoid changing the drivers door micro switch is unreal!!
Last edited:
Glad you succeeded in the end. I presume the clutch now works fine. Sorry, I forgot to mention that a second person is virtually essential for this job as you can't be in the engine bay and foot well at the same time. I got my son to be my eyes and nut holder in the foot well. The bit of foam you mentioned can just be pulled out to improve access, I guess it's there for sound insulation. I'm sure your thread here will help someone in the future.
Howey
Member
Yes touch wood it's working fine thanks!
I couldn't even see the foam let alone get any purchase on it hence my unautodox approach lol
Failures luckily appear very low, hopefully others may benefit from my struggle lol!