Deadlocked Rear Passenger Side Door

G

GMH499

Member
Hello Everybody.
My Y reg 1.4 petrol is due for MOT by 7/4/21.
I took it today and the tester says it will fail due to the door not opening from the outside or inside.
This rule still applies even if you remove the rear seats permanently, and make it a load carrier.
I've owned it 18 months, and the central locking played up on this door . Should I have fitted a new module straight away?
When it wouldn't lock, I did it manually through the access hole, meaning it was permanently locked, by-passing the central locking.
The other 3 doors and hatch all work.
I don't use the back seats much, so it's not been a problem.
Last year's MOT was fine, and there's no other reason it'd fail this year.
I was able to open it by pulling the handle twice. That doesn't work now.
I've dismantled the door cards and panel today.
Luckily the seat came out! The electric windows work fine.
It's Catch 22...... can't get to the lock to remove or service it.
I've tried the thumping of the door near the lock and with engine running etc.
A8 Spares in Stockton weren't optimistic about solving it.
This must be a problem some of you have had.
I've spent a lot of time and money on it, and don't want to scrap it for what seems trivial; but no MOT, no car.
Any ideas please. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
This sounds like contacting "timmus" would be an idea not without merit. He is way up in Lancaster, but does have a clinic in Leighton Buzzard once a year.

Just an aside, he is a terrifically nice chap.

Good luck
 
simon martyn said:
This sounds like contacting "timmus" would be an idea not without merit. He is way up in Lancaster, but does have a clinic in Leighton Buzzard once a year.

Just an aside, he is a terrifically nice chap.

Good luck
Click to expand...
Thanks. Trouble is I live in East Kent, near Manston and all that!!
Can't get there with no MOT.
 
At the moment it's an access/mechanical problem.
I'm not that worried about it working electrically afterwards.
I just need to open the door, and sort it from there.
Thanks Simon.
 
Do make contact with T, there is nothing he doesn't know about these doors. I'd put money on the fact that he'll be able to point you in the right direction.
 
You could try this. As you say you have already removed the door card and metal plate you can see the lock. You need to make sure the red cam is in the up position as per this picture. You will need to either get your hands onto it or more likely either a long screwdriver or extension bar that will fit in the gap between the lock and door panel to lift the cam. Once up the mechanical interlocking is removed and the door is unlocked and SHOULD now open......


1617026133573.jpeg
 
Thank you. Printed the picture.
When I push the red cam up, should it stay there, or do I hold it while opening?
The slot by the top bolt is the one I turned to keep it locked earlier.
This is inaccessible now of course.
 
The red cam normally remains either up or down, depending on the lock state. You may have to hold it but may find that will then interfere with with the silver upper part of the release. When the cam is down it blocks the upper part of the silver arm to prevent the door handles from working. The inner door cable is as seen in the picture attached to the door handle cable. The black slot will only be accessible once the door is open.
 
Tried pushing the red cam up with a scredriver. It won't stay up, and just springs back. door still won't open with cam held up.
As you say the black slot you need to access is only visible with the door open. Back to Catch 22.
Could be going on the For Sale market. Good car, good spec, no MOT.
Thank you. Given up for the day.
 
The black slot is the child proof lock and should not stop the door from opening from the outside handle.
 
Only option is to remove the red cam from the lock by removing the screw on the metal plate on top of the red cam. There will be a few loose parts to catch so make sure that you keep the area clear and try to place something to catch the parts as they spring off...
 
If that does not work then I would make up a cable to use the wiring from the other rear door to see if that is enough to just take off the deadlock and/ or unlock open the door. There could also be a way of connecting a battery to the lock wiring terminals to open it but do not know if that has been tried before.
 
I can't get to the screws or any other parts that fix the lock or the red cam to the door. That's the whole problem.
Rigging up temporary wiring from the offside is daunting. I've the old battery (replaced late 2020), so might look at that.
I'll see if any other ideas come.
Thanks for your suggestions so far.
 
The other thing is try to remove the rubber grommet where the wires go through the B pillar, you can access this with the front door open. This happened to my daughters car, but opposite (would not lock) and it simply turned out to be corroded connectors withing the rubber grommet.

This is it with the door open:

Rear door connector 2.jpg


And it looked like this:


Rear door connector.jpg
 
I don't have that facility.
I could take it to the VW/Audi independent for them to check.
Is that what you mean?
It's where I went today for MOT which never took place.
Thanks. I'll check the wiring as your latest reply said.
 
Before getting heavy with the tools, first disconnect the battery negative terminal for 5 minutes and re-connect it. It could be an issue with the CCCU and this may get it working long enough to get the door open.
 
VCDS may reveal that the module is not communicating, then that would point to the hinge connector as pictured. I simply cleaned the connectors up and applied a little vaseline, job was a good'en.

But try Steves method first.
 
A2Steve said:
Before getting heavy with the tools, first disconnect the battery negative terminal for 5 minutes and re-connect it. It could be an issue with the CCCU and this may get it working long enough to get the door open.
Click to expand...
I've already dismantled all I can. I've disconnected the battery several times for charging/replacement .
I'll try just the negative/earth cable as you suggest.
This started before I had to have a new battery.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top