Door lock module part number for Fuel release issue

Robthebank

Member
HI Guys,

My fuel release button does not work, I thought it was the actual switch at first so I bought a new one, I haven't fitted yet as I now know that is not the issue as the interior light and DIS does not know the door is open, I sprayed with contact cleaner and it worked a couple of times and now has gone back to not working, so I guess its time to replace the Door Lock Module, I see this on Amazone:

Are they universal, or do I need an A2 specific one?
Can I still get these new at a reasonable price? if not anybody got a good 2nd hand one?

I have a 2003, 1.4TDI 75, RHD.
 

Vantagemech

Member
Micro switch in the door latch. A few £ on Amazon or eBay and a few hours to strip and replace the switch. There are a few threads on here about it. I did mine several months ago, replaced the switch as well.... (Though the button was missing on mine!)
 

Robthebank

Member
Ok thanks for that, although time is money so if the complete unit is a reasonable cost I think I will go for that, I’ve got a big list to work through.
 

Vantagemech

Member
To be honest, to replace the switch is fairly quick if you don't open the latch up, it's a microswitch with a red and a blue wire. However, I'd be wary of fitting an untested item as it might have the same issue. I checked mine by plugging the latch assembly into the loom and operating the latch while still in my hand - not bolted into the car.
 

Robthebank

Member
To be honest, to replace the switch is fairly quick if you don't open the latch up, it's a microswitch with a red and a blue wire. However, I'd be wary of fitting an untested item as it might have the same issue. I checked mine by plugging the latch assembly into the loom and operating the latch while still in my hand - not bolted into the car.
Ok any chance of a link? Can’t seem to find any micro switches less then around £20 a pair and the complete unit in my first link was only £29.
 

Andrew

A2OC Donor
I'm no expert at all but .....

I fully expect the door lock/microswitch assembly will be A2 specific, starting 8Z..., followed by 2 for our RHD, do your research but think the part in the first post can be discounted.

Most members simply pick up a working used part from one of the recyclers on here, crop up often in Marketplace, put an ad in Wanted, pretty sure somebody will have one for around the £20 mark.

I thought it was rarely the microswitch at fault but dry joints on the circuit board. A virtually no cost fix is to reflow the solder joints if this is within your skill set. A kind of 'How To' is somewhere on here if you search I remember.

Andy
 

Robthebank

Member
No worries, switch ordered, I’m just trying to have a plan A and B ready for when I strip the door down, I’m handy with the soldering Iron but I know the fuel filter change will take most of my Saturday morning. Thanks guys!
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
When you get your replacement door open microswitch, solder it onto the leads, but before rebuilding the lock back into the door, check the microswitch is correctly functioning, the DIS is illuminating the door, the alarm and fuel switches are illuminated and fuel flap opens. Where the cam operates the microswitch clean out all the gunk in there and check the cam for flat spots. Once all clean fit the new switch to the rear of the lock and quickly retest the door catch and the microswitch working correctly. Refit lock to door, upper door...etc. Plan B would be a complete replacement lock assembly, BUT be careful as early cars do not like later locks and I assume later cars do not like early locks, probably some CanBus issue. i see you are planning on changing the fuel filter. If it is the later plastic housing be VERY careful when you try to remove the drain plug, there is very little torque required to assemble it, but it is usually over tightened and shears off when you try to remove it. Best to order a replacement one manufactured by Paul @depronman as it is much better than the original and remember to clamp the fuel hoses and mark them before removing them.
 

depronman

A2OC Donor
Hi,
Door Lock
Firstly in my experience (and I've done dozens of door locks on not only A2's but the vag range) its 90% of the time the solder joints, 10% the micro switch, but importantly often the micro switch AND the plastic covering on the CAM, if the covering as broken through then the lock assy is scrap, fitting a new micro switch will only last a few weeks as the broken plastic will wear the new switch away in no time
Re flowing the joints using LEADED solder and electrical flux and a good large hot soldering iron, the latter circuit boards have a coating which needs to be removed to allow reflowing. I use a solder sucker to remove the old solder, then flux and reflow with new LEADED solder, getting the joint properly hot

Fuel Screw
As Audifan as stated if you are on the newer fuel filter (2003 onwards, but some later 2002 as well) do not even think of changing the filter without a spare screw be it one of my aluminium ones or a spare plastic screw, they nearly always break due to plastic becoming brittle. luckily its easy to remove the broken piece using a flat bladed screwdriver.
If you want the 'fit and forget' solution then order one of my aluminium screws, I can post one out tomorrow first class if needed so it will be with you for the weekend. The screw is £23 plus £3.50 for first class post or £3.00 for second class post
The screw is only needed if the filter housing is made from black plastic, the earlier aluminium canister filter did not suffer from the screw issue, but is much more fiddly to change and certainly needs two clamps on the pipes. The plastic housing filter can be changed without clamps, particularly if the fuel level is low. Place a tray under the filter housing, undo the screw (a little dribble of fuel will be escaping), have a 36mm 6 point socket handy, undo the bottom of the filter housing, once removed a large cup full of fuel will escape followed by a slow trickle, remove the old filter element, inset the new element and screw up the bottom housing, then fir the drain screw
all in all less than a 1/3 of a litre of fuel will escape

Paul
 
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